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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-27-2004, 09:46 AM   #9961
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hi guys, i was wondering if anyone here has a l3 w/rugrat conversion. i just wanted some setup tips for a carpet track.

thanks
marshalv.
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Old 12-27-2004, 10:43 AM   #9962
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Quote:
Originally posted by dado11g
hi guys, i was wondering if anyone here has a l3 w/rugrat conversion. i just wanted some setup tips for a carpet track.

thanks
marshalv.
davidl should be able to help out with that.

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Old 12-27-2004, 01:30 PM   #9963
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Does anybody know how to wire an lrp ipc 7.1 digital esc? I was looking at the wiring diagram and it looked confusing.... My guess is that the red motor wire has to be spliced in the middle and a seperate piece has to be wired on for a positive for a battery connector, and black is the negative battery wire. also, is it necessary to put a schottky diode on a monster stock?
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Old 12-27-2004, 01:38 PM   #9964
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Quote:
Originally posted by nmt6789
Does anybody know how to wire an lrp ipc 7.1 digital esc? I was looking at the wiring diagram and it looked confusing.... My guess is that the red motor wire has to be spliced in the middle and a seperate piece has to be wired on for a positive for a battery connector, and black is the negative battery wire. also, is it necessary to put a schottky diode on a monster stock?
Wiring dead on, and yes run the schottky.
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Old 12-27-2004, 01:57 PM   #9965
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Thanks
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Old 12-27-2004, 02:49 PM   #9966
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Default CRC's prototype front end done being tested

just saw it on the crc's website forum. www.nashracer.com has more pics of it. supposedly it is getting ready to go into production.
Attached Images
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Old 12-27-2004, 03:21 PM   #9967
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I just got the Yokomo YRX-12 WE. What are your opinions on the car and the pro's and cons? Secondly, when I started assembling it I noticed that none of the holes were countersunk deep enough. Would it be worth it to make all the screws sit flush with the chassis?
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Old 12-27-2004, 03:53 PM   #9968
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Should there be a lot of play in the front axles of the 12l4? I was just putting the finishing touches on my kit and it seems that there is too much play in the fronte axels (wheels move too much)
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Old 12-27-2004, 03:54 PM   #9969
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Default Re: Question

Quote:
Originally posted by G Mills
I just got the Yokomo YRX-12 WE. What are your opinions on the car and the pro's and cons? Secondly, when I started assembling it I noticed that none of the holes were countersunk deep enough. Would it be worth it to make all the screws sit flush with the chassis?
It's a very good asphalt car. I ran a variant of the car this summer on outdoor asphalt. The only recommendation I have is to cut a battery tape slot, parallel between the hole in the chassis under the T bar and the inside battery slot to run the straping tape through. Otherwise you have to wrap tape all the way around both battery saddle packs and the chassis. Not a very secure way to hold the batteries. After I cut the slot, I never had my batteries come loose.

The flat head screws on the bottom of the chassis have to be flush with the chassis or below. You never want anything hanging out on the bottom of the chassis. You can get a counter sink that matches the angle of your screws or order some billet titanium flat head screws from Lunsford. They fit below the chassis without having to counter sink the holes.


http://www.lunsfordracing.com/catalo...9_products.htm
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Old 12-27-2004, 04:05 PM   #9970
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Quote:
Originally posted by nmt6789
Should there be a lot of play in the front axles of the 12l4? I was just putting the finishing touches on my kit and it seems that there is too much play in the fronte axels (wheels move too much)
Do you mean the bearings sliding back and forth on the axle? If, so you need to shim it to there is no movement, but make sure the wheel still spins free
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Old 12-27-2004, 04:16 PM   #9971
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Default Re: Re: Question

Quote:
Originally posted by Crashby
It's a very good asphalt car. I ran a variant of the car this summer on outdoor asphalt. The only recommendation I have is to cut a battery tape slot, parallel between the hole in the chassis under the T bar and the inside battery slot to run the straping tape through. Otherwise you have to wrap tape all the way around both battery saddle packs and the chassis. Not a very secure way to hold the batteries. After I cut the slot, I never had my batteries come loose.

The flat head screws on the bottom of the chassis have to be flush with the chassis or below. You never want anything hanging out on the bottom of the chassis. You can get a counter sink that matches the angle of your screws or order some billet titanium flat head screws from Lunsford. They fit below the chassis without having to counter sink the holes.


http://www.lunsfordracing.com/catalo...9_products.htm
I actually got this car for carpet racing. Would the L4 have been a better choice for carpet?

What would be a good tire compound to start with for carpet racing?
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Old 12-27-2004, 04:51 PM   #9972
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Do you mean the bearings sliding back and forth on the axle? If, so you need to shim it to there is no movement, but make sure the wheel still spins free
The wheel moves side to side but, it is a signifigant amount. So would it make sense to put a ton of spacers in?
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Old 12-27-2004, 05:01 PM   #9973
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Did you install the supplied bearings into the wheelhubs?
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Old 12-27-2004, 05:06 PM   #9974
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Yea but, both front wheels move side to side about 1/4 inch......
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Old 12-27-2004, 05:30 PM   #9975
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Quote:
Originally posted by dado11g
hi guys, i was wondering if anyone here has a l3 w/rugrat conversion. i just wanted some setup tips for a carpet track.

thanks
marshalv.
So Tim has volunteered me on this one. First, I will assume you are going to use the T-plate and front suspension out of the kit. The .075 T-plate is best. But bear mind that you will end up tuning the rear of the car with this plate and the center shock. I use 35 wt Associated oil in the shock. I change from the green spring to the chrome spring based on traction. I also use or remove the middle screw that mounts the t-plate to the rear motor pod based on traction. Start with the screw in position and the chrome spring. Remove the screw if the car is loose. Change to the green spring if it is still loose. Change rear tires if it is still loose. That change would be from either grey to white, or magenta to pink, just something a little softer.

Now the front of the car. Use .020 front springs and set the camber to -2 deg and the caster to anything less than +2 deg. If the car traction rolls, reduce caster to almost 0 deg. Start with purple front tires. If it doesn't steer enough, change to magenta or double pink. If it still doesn't steer enough, go to the rear of the car and adjust the opposite of the paragraph above. You can use Trinity red grease on the lower portion of the king pin that slides in the pivot of the lower A-arm. It will provide a little front dampning that is always good. You can reduce camber if you don't like the coning of the front tires. Then you can use all of this to get the turing characteristics you want. Don't forget to adjust the amount of front tire you dope with traction compound to make small adjustments in turning. I am typically using between 3/4 and 7/8 width of compound.

All of this is very similar to the Ass 12L3. We just doing it a little differently to get the same results. And now I remember that I didn't mention anything about the dampner tubes. I use Losi Hydradrive Medium fluid in them. I have not seen a need to use anything thicker or thinner. Just remember that the tubes do all the side dampning that the pucks do on the 12L and the spring/center shock does everything the pucks and the center shock did on the 12L. That is why 35 wt in the shock in lieu of 30 wt that Associated recommends. I also put the batteries in the far back position to get the most rotation during turning.

Additionally:
ride height: 3.5mm
tire sizes:
front 1.78 to start, then at 1.72 the ride height gets too close
rear 1.90 to start, then as small as you can considering the pinions you will use and the amount of rear traction you need.

I recommend that yoiu use the t-plate brace between the two t-plate pivots. This stiffens the chassis and helps you use the suspension instead of the chassis flex. I have been having some success lately by setting it up as loose as I can drive for the entire run. That is my speed tip of the day. Good luck and send questions if you have any.

PS - Tim, you still owe me a supplier for the thrust bearing. Use my email. leeda@tqci.net
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