Originally posted by dado11g
hi guys, i was wondering if anyone here has a l3 w/rugrat conversion. i just wanted some setup tips for a carpet track.
So Tim has volunteered me on this one. First, I will assume you are going to use the T-plate and front suspension out of the kit. The .075 T-plate is best. But bear mind that you will end up tuning the rear of the car with this plate and the center shock. I use 35 wt Associated oil in the shock. I change from the green spring to the chrome spring based on traction. I also use or remove the middle screw that mounts the t-plate to the rear motor pod based on traction. Start with the screw in position and the chrome spring. Remove the screw if the car is loose. Change to the green spring if it is still loose. Change rear tires if it is still loose. That change would be from either grey to white, or magenta to pink, just something a little softer.
Now the front of the car. Use .020 front springs and set the camber to -2 deg and the caster to anything less than +2 deg. If the car traction rolls, reduce caster to almost 0 deg. Start with purple front tires. If it doesn't steer enough, change to magenta or double pink. If it still doesn't steer enough, go to the rear of the car and adjust the opposite of the paragraph above. You can use Trinity red grease on the lower portion of the king pin that slides in the pivot of the lower A-arm. It will provide a little front dampning that is always good. You can reduce camber if you don't like the coning of the front tires. Then you can use all of this to get the turing characteristics you want. Don't forget to adjust the amount of front tire you dope with traction compound to make small adjustments in turning. I am typically using between 3/4 and 7/8 width of compound.
All of this is very similar to the Ass 12L3. We just doing it a little differently to get the same results. And now I remember that I didn't mention anything about the dampner tubes. I use Losi Hydradrive Medium fluid in them. I have not seen a need to use anything thicker or thinner. Just remember that the tubes do all the side dampning that the pucks do on the 12L and the spring/center shock does everything the pucks and the center shock did on the 12L. That is why 35 wt in the shock in lieu of 30 wt that Associated recommends. I also put the batteries in the far back position to get the most rotation during turning.
ride height: 3.5mm
front 1.78 to start, then at 1.72 the ride height gets too close
rear 1.90 to start, then as small as you can considering the pinions you will use and the amount of rear traction you need.
I recommend that yoiu use the t-plate brace between the two t-plate pivots. This stiffens the chassis and helps you use the suspension instead of the chassis flex. I have been having some success lately by setting it up as loose as I can drive for the entire run. That is my speed tip of the day. Good luck and send questions if you have any.
PS - Tim, you still owe me a supplier for the thrust bearing. Use my email. firstname.lastname@example.org