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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-23-2004, 05:34 PM   #9916
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Hey Guys hope you can help me out.
I have had my L4 for about 1-2 months now and its going great. I got a different setup on there and its running good. But the diff just doesnt roll long enough. What i mean by rolling is that, when i spin the diff it only rolls about 3-5secs tops.... I have seen the other diffs such as the CRC and those thing just keep spinning...

The diff is smooth but it just doesnt roll long at all... Someone please help. Do you think its the bearings?? Or those plastic bearing holders binding?? ANything will help.

Thanks

Jon
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Old 12-23-2004, 06:02 PM   #9917
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Make sure that you don't have the left side hub pressed too tight against the bearings..it will cause drag....
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Old 12-23-2004, 06:03 PM   #9918
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i just checked my bearings tonight and they are trashed. really gritty. the rear bearings really need some attention. check your bearings and replace if necessary. then try again.
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Old 12-23-2004, 06:11 PM   #9919
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Quote:
Originally posted by Windsorguy99
Make sure that you don't have the left side hub pressed too tight against the bearings..it will cause drag....
Will check that. Thanks


Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
i just checked my bearings tonight and they are trashed. really gritty. the rear bearings really need some attention. check your bearings and replace if necessary. then try again.
Will check that was well. Thanks

Jon
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Old 12-23-2004, 06:16 PM   #9920
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Ya even with the left hub off it just doesnt spin..... it wasnt even for 3-5secs more like 1-2sec like one rotation..... Cant be the shims can it? I only have 2 on the right and 3 on left. But even with the left shims off it still doesnt spin.. I am confused.
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Old 12-23-2004, 06:56 PM   #9921
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What are you using to lube the bearings with? I clean mine after ever race and put on ONE drop of 5wt. synthetic motor oil. Axle spins forever and bearings last a long time.
Definietly check the plastic inserts and make sure their not pitching the bearing to hard.

take care
john
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Old 12-23-2004, 07:03 PM   #9922
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
What are you using to lube the bearings with? I clean mine after ever race and put on ONE drop of 5wt. synthetic motor oil. Axle spins forever and bearings last a long time.
Definietly check the plastic inserts and make sure their not pitching the bearing to hard.

take care
john
I am not using a lube on the bearings. Will shock oil work? I dont have bearing oil, i think i should pick up some alittle later.

And how do i check the plastic inserts for pinching? And i would just use an x-acto or somethig to fix it right?

Thanks
Jon
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Old 12-23-2004, 07:16 PM   #9923
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NOOOOOOOOOOOOO

No shock oil...

you're looking for a verythin light lubricant...

shock oil isn't designed as a lubricant..it's designed to be a thick fluid...thick is BAD...

Use Trinity Royal Oil or Zubaks Speed Lube or Fantom bearing oil but NO shock oil
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Old 12-23-2004, 07:28 PM   #9924
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Quote:
Originally posted by Windsorguy99
NOOOOOOOOOOOOO

No shock oil...

you're looking for a verythin light lubricant...

shock oil isn't designed as a lubricant..it's designed to be a thick fluid...thick is BAD...

Use Trinity Royal Oil or Zubaks Speed Lube or Fantom bearing oil but NO shock oil
okay okay, lol. Sorry i didnt know tahts why i asked. Okay i gotta pick me up some bearing oil. Thanks Guys

Jon
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Old 12-23-2004, 07:48 PM   #9925
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LOL @ Winndor He's right no shock oil
For the plastic inserts they should be snug but go in and out easily. For the middle you can use a body reamer or some like that. Yes and exacto knife works on the outside.

take care
john
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Old 12-23-2004, 07:50 PM   #9926
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
LOL @ Winndor He's right no shock oil
For the plastic inserts they should be snug but go in and out easily. For the middle you can use a body reamer or some like that. Yes and exacto knife works on the outside.

take care
john
Well thanks again guys, I'll just have to pick up some bearing oil after the holidays.

Merry Christmas to all and Happy New Year.

Jon
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Old 12-23-2004, 08:10 PM   #9927
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hi...
i am wondering can i use WD40 to relube bearing?
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Old 12-23-2004, 08:22 PM   #9928
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
LOL @ Winndor He's right no shock oil
For the plastic inserts they should be snug but go in and out easily. For the middle you can use a body reamer or some like that. Yes and exacto knife works on the outside.

take care
john
Here is my solution for the plastic ride height adjusters that hold the rear axle bearings. I take a 3/8" dia. reamer and run it through the plastic adjuster till the bearing just snaps lightly into place. The adjusters are molded with a diameter that is too small to hold the bearing properly. It actually constricts the outer race of the bearing, creating drag. That drag contributes to the premature wear out of the bearing as well as cause mis-alignment of the axle and drag that restricts speed. Once relieved, the adjuster will hold the bearings such that they are properly aligned and free to rotate as intended.

A little note for the interested. IRS is in process of designing and manufacturing some of these adjusters in aluminum. They will be available in around .030 deltas of height as will as provide proper fit to the bearing. Keep your eyes open for them when they are introduced. PS - the current plastic adjusters have a .060 height delta.
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:11 PM   #9929
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Quote:
Originally posted by FL1410
hi...
i am wondering can i use WD40 to relube bearing?


i wouldnt use it. any light oil like mystery oil or 3 in 1 will work or even better a ball bearing oil like ones from trinity. trinity makes two kinds, the purple which is a high performance oil, very light, and theres a regular ball bearing oil.
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:12 PM   #9930
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also, when u start using light oils, u gotta lube it all the time like every run or you'll destroy ur bearings.
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