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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-22-2004, 09:05 PM   #9901
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Default Re: Re: Gearing problems

Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
same thing happened to my l3. AE admitted that they made a boo boo. i just use 64 pitch. also u can grind the motor mount to make more mesh adjustments.
ASC cars have always been this way.You need to grind down the t-bar and t-bar screw. then you can get a 32/100 in it.
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Old 12-22-2004, 10:16 PM   #9902
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Default New to 1/12

Well in a few days i'll beable to build my rc12l4. X-mas Gift i was just wondering if anyone had any good building tips.... i never built a 1/12 scale car and i dont have a setup board for a 12th scale but i do have a set of Calipers....(to measure foams) but i noticed in the rc12l3 manual that i found online, they showed that it would be a help into building the car? so any suggestion from the gurus would be great
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Old 12-22-2004, 10:42 PM   #9903
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Default Re: New to 1/12

Quote:
Originally posted by Chad_R40
Well in a few days i'll beable to build my rc12l4. X-mas Gift i was just wondering if anyone had any good building tips.... i never built a 1/12 scale car and i dont have a setup board for a 12th scale but i do have a set of Calipers....(to measure foams) but i noticed in the rc12l3 manual that i found online, they showed that it would be a help into building the car? so any suggestion from the gurus would be great


take ur time, take a break, dont rush
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Old 12-22-2004, 11:09 PM   #9904
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Default Re: New to 1/12

Quote:
Originally posted by Chad_R40
Well in a few days i'll beable to build my rc12l4. X-mas Gift i was just wondering if anyone had any good building tips.... i never built a 1/12 scale car and i dont have a setup board for a 12th scale but i do have a set of Calipers....(to measure foams) but i noticed in the rc12l3 manual that i found online, they showed that it would be a help into building the car? so any suggestion from the gurus would be great
Having just finished building mine, i would say the most confusing bit was the shock, I still dont think its right... it doesnt seem to have a cap on it..

also, the supplied pivots on the tbar are both round, they dont supply one with flat sides as the manual would have you believe. You will need to trim these so you can get the tweak screws into the tbar. Oh yeah, i put a little grease on these pivots too, cant hurt.
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:42 AM   #9905
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Applying grease to the damper plates generally slows down rear pod movement. Apply it to control rear traction and to make your car flip over in the corners less.
Generally: thicker lube in the damper discs means more rear traction, so also less steering. Keep in mind it's all about traction management , not getting the most traction.
As a general guideline: Start with fairly heavy shock oil, and work your down to the point your car starts to roll over in the corners, then go back up a weight.
I use Corally damper syrup, so I can't tell which shock oil weight to start with. On intuition I'de say 40wt should be a good starting point, but correct me if I'm wrong.
When you have your car stable enough to avoid rolling over in the corners, it's time to start playing with things like front springs and the amount of traction compound you use on the front wheels. (start with a small line on the inside of the fronts).
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:17 PM   #9906
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Default Re: Gearing problems

Quote:
Originally posted by hobbipro
I seem to be having a problem getting a 32T- 64P pinion on my 19t motor. It appears that the motor could move forward on the motor mount, but won't since it hits the t-bar first (this is a L4 by the way). Anyone experience this problem? I'm using box stock set up and the included 100T spur. Strange thing is that the manual specs a 35T for a stock motor, and I dont see how that could fit either, did I do something wrong???
Take your motor out and use your Dremmel tool (or hand file) to grind away the back edge of the T bar until you can get the correct gear lash adjustment. If you are using the center screw where the T bar mounts to the lower motor pod plate, make sure you leave enough T bar material to allow the center screw/nut to make a secure mount. If you still do not have enough forward motor movement, then you will have to make the motor mount holes on the left side motor pod plate longer. This is a little more difficult and time consuming.
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:28 PM   #9907
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Default Re: Re: Gearing problems

Quote:
Originally posted by Crashby
Take your motor out and use your Dremmel tool (or hand file) to grind away the back edge of the T bar until you can get the correct gear lash adjustment. If you are using the center screw where the T bar mounts to the lower motor pod plate, make sure you leave enough T bar material to allow the center screw/nut to make a secure mount. If you still do not have enough forward motor movement, then you will have to make the motor mount holes on the left side motor pod plate longer. This is a little more difficult and time consuming.


or, u can just grind the motor mount holes for further mesh adjustment without messing with th T-bar
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:30 PM   #9908
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Default Re: Re: Re: Gearing problems

Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
or, u can just grind the motor mount holes for further mesh adjustment without messing with th T-bar
How is that going to help when the motor hits the t-bar?
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:35 PM   #9909
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it moves the motor towards the back
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:37 PM   #9910
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or if u dont wanna do that, u can switch to lower teeth 64 pitch gears
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:38 PM   #9911
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Hello all, the 1/12 bug just bit me, and I'm really interested in getting into the 1/12 scene. I really like the CRC chassis' and the lola bodies. But before I jump into the world of 1/12 I would like to know if there are any in-door carpet tracks out here in Southern California.

I know most all the tracks down here are out doors. For the 1/10 sedans (which is what I am currently running).

Please let me know.

Thanks!

Moses
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:44 PM   #9912
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Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
it moves the motor towards the back
but you need to move it foward to fit bigger gears...
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:48 PM   #9913
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Quote:
Originally posted by twopie24
Hello all, the 1/12 bug just bit me, and I'm really interested in getting into the 1/12 scene. I really like the CRC chassis' and the lola bodies. But before I jump into the world of 1/12 I would like to know if there are any in-door carpet tracks out here in Southern California.

I know most all the tracks down here are out doors. For the 1/10 sedans (which is what I am currently running).

Please let me know.

Thanks!

Moses


here
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Old 12-23-2004, 02:26 PM   #9914
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Thanks guys, I marked the t-bar where the motor would hit, then cut off about 1/8" between the lines I marked right in front of the center screw hole. I then used a 5/16x440 screw and low profile nut, now she slides forward with no problems.
I dont understand why Associated or some smart company wouldnt make a t-bar with a slight notch stamped in it ready to mount. It just makes Associated look like they havent done all there homework when it comes to fit and finish.
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Old 12-23-2004, 02:38 PM   #9915
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Default Re: New to 1/12

Quote:
Originally posted by Chad_R40
Well in a few days i'll beable to build my rc12l4. X-mas Gift i was just wondering if anyone had any good building tips.... i never built a 1/12 scale car and i dont have a setup board for a 12th scale but i do have a set of Calipers....(to measure foams) but i noticed in the rc12l3 manual that i found online, they showed that it would be a help into building the car? so any suggestion from the gurus would be great
If you haven't already seen it, this is an awesome site:
http://home.comcast.net/~mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html
Mike does a great job explaining each step. Like was said before. Take your time, make sure each piece you put is perfect and doesn't not change the chassis flatness. If you do that, you will end up with a very nice driving car.
Good luck.

To all the 12th scaler's, thanks for another fun year. It's great to see all the new cars, people, idea's, and best of all RC Tech 12th scale Forum!!!! I love to see all the interest in 12th scale growing. It's good for the sport. Can't wait to see what the next year brings

Merry Christmas
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