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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-21-2004, 07:53 PM   #9886
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Default Re: Parma tire question

Quote:
Originally posted by whynot
How do I go about changing the rear end so I can use parma tires.When I put the parmas on the left tire hits the chassi and the rear is about 5 mm narrower.Any help would be great.Thank you in advance.
mike
The maximum track for 1/12th scale 172 mm. Just space the left wheel out with spacers until the wheel/tire does not touch the motor pod and you don't go over the 172 mm maximum track. The trick is getting the spacing correct so the track is equal left to right. Mark the center of the chassis and then make the spacing from the center line to the outside of the wheel/tire equal. Don't go over the 172 mm maximum!!
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Old 12-21-2004, 08:13 PM   #9887
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: 12L4 Questions

Quote:
Originally posted by Crashby
It sounds to me that under severe corning, the outside of the chassis may have been coming in contact with the racing surface therefore unloading the rear tires. You can check this by looking for any build up of residue (traction compound) on the outside, bottom edges of the chassis. Because most of the chassis we use are made of black carbon fiber material, it is some times difficult to determine if there has been contact between chassis and racing surface. Take a clean white cloth, spray some type of cleaner or motor spray on the cloth and wipe the bottom of the chassis doing the outside, bottom edges of the chassis first. You can also check the leading, bottom edge of the motor pot as well with a clean part of the cloth.

If all else fails, put some type of thin, white tape on the chassis and check after every run for contact with the racing surface. I think you will be surprised at what you find.
How would I fix this problem?
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Old 12-21-2004, 09:44 PM   #9888
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Default Re: Re: LRP Quantum Comp 2 ESC programming

Quote:
Originally posted by davidl
Good luck.
davidl,

Many thanks for your insight into the QC2 settings.
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Old 12-21-2004, 10:59 PM   #9889
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Default Re: New to this

Quote:
Originally posted by SA_Racer
Im new to this and need some basic setup advice

So now I have the my L4 setup as per the manual but im wondering what roulout I should am for when gearing the car. I will start out running a 10x2, using 48pitch gears. other recomendations are welcome

Car configuration

LRP QC2 ESC
Sanwa Reciever
Hitec MG Servo

Running on asphalt only

Maybe you guys can recommend a good website with lots of helpful links and setup tips ?

Thanks for the help guys.
Anybody ???
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:32 AM   #9890
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 12L4 Questions

Quote:
Originally posted by savio7
How would I fix this problem?
More ride height, stiffer front and/or side springs, thicker lube in damper tubes/ damper discs. If this doesn't work, you can also see if you can use a harder tire compound all around, so the car slightly less traction, so it isn't forced to roll as much.
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:39 AM   #9891
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Default Re: Re: New to this

Quote:
Originally posted by SA_Racer
Anybody ???
Basic rollout 4cell 10turns: 28 to 30mm per rev. use no more than 12 degrees of timing on your motor for runtime.
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:55 AM   #9892
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Default new GP 3700 nimh

http://yp.rcmodel.com.hk/modules.php...710&fullsize=1
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Old 12-22-2004, 01:12 AM   #9893
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Default

Quote:
i did not mean a new set of tire each run, but it was sugested to me to have more then one set and to rotate them so that each set of tire only has one run a day, nit more then 2.
If you don't have multiple sets of tires it is important that after each run you put your leftside tires on the rightside and vice versa. This way you eliminate tweak difference due to tire wear.

After 2 or 3 runs without changing the tires from left to right, measure the difference, you'll see what i mean. especially when your track has the fast sweepers all going the same direction
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Old 12-22-2004, 06:28 PM   #9894
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Default Gearing problems

I seem to be having a problem getting a 32T- 64P pinion on my 19t motor. It appears that the motor could move forward on the motor mount, but won't since it hits the t-bar first (this is a L4 by the way). Anyone experience this problem? I'm using box stock set up and the included 100T spur. Strange thing is that the manual specs a 35T for a stock motor, and I dont see how that could fit either, did I do something wrong???
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Old 12-22-2004, 07:16 PM   #9895
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hey guys Merry Christmas.... I have been reading up and down this thread and every now and then someone mentions about lube on the damper disks. According to the L4 instructions ya not suposed to use any lube there unless you guys know better. If ya suppose to use lube what kind do you use? and how much? and... What the benefit of having lube there. And do you apply it to both disks???? I am a bit new to this so please forgive me for all the questions!!!!!
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Old 12-22-2004, 08:12 PM   #9896
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Default Re: Gearing problems

Quote:
Originally posted by hobbipro
I seem to be having a problem getting a 32T- 64P pinion on my 19t motor. It appears that the motor could move forward on the motor mount, but won't since it hits the t-bar first (this is a L4 by the way). Anyone experience this problem? I'm using box stock set up and the included 100T spur. Strange thing is that the manual specs a 35T for a stock motor, and I dont see how that could fit either, did I do something wrong???



same thing happened to my l3. AE admitted that they made a boo boo. i just use 64 pitch. also u can grind the motor mount to make more mesh adjustments.
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Old 12-22-2004, 08:59 PM   #9897
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Quote:
Originally posted by ALBERTO
hey guys Merry Christmas.... I have been reading up and down this thread and every now and then someone mentions about lube on the damper disks. According to the L4 instructions ya not suposed to use any lube there unless you guys know better. If ya suppose to use lube what kind do you use? and how much? and... What the benefit of having lube there. And do you apply it to both disks???? I am a bit new to this so please forgive me for all the questions!!!!!

from what ive heard, we use it to slow the reation of the damper disk down which makes the car either more twitcy or smoother threw the corner(cant remember).i my self apply like not even 2 drops of shock oil(what every ends up working for ur track) to both disks and rub so that it has coated the disk...if you vetrain 1/12scalers think i miss informed this guy correct me please

hope that helps in anyway possible

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Old 12-22-2004, 09:02 PM   #9898
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Quote:
seem to be having a problem getting a 32T- 64P pinion on my 19t motor. It appears that the motor could move forward on the motor mount, but won't since it hits the t-bar first (this is a L4 by the way). Anyone experience this problem? I'm using box stock set up and the included 100T spur. Strange thing is that the manual specs a 35T for a stock motor, and I dont see how that could fit either, did I do something wrong???

i ran into the same problem, to correct this i took the middle t-bar screw,nut and spacer out and grinded the t-plat just a enough so that i could ajust the motor better(better gear mesh)..i didnt notice the t-bar/car tweaking during the race or having to retweak inbetween rounds..

hope thats what you looking for?

Oh YA! i went down to a 96spur

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Old 12-22-2004, 09:02 PM   #9899
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i dunno but my manual for my l3 says to put lube in it.
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Old 12-22-2004, 09:05 PM   #9900
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what tire diameter do u guys run? i like running my rear 1.8 inches rear and 1.7 front.
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