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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-21-2004, 08:27 AM   #9871
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Default Re: LRP Quantum Comp 2 ESC programming

Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
For 1/12th scale stock at Stockton, I was using the 3-0-0 programming settings on my QC2 ESC; but, recently tried 5-3-3 settings with questionable results. Extra punch was welcome; however, I was losing too much speed while in the turns. Any comments from the 'peanut gallery'?
Did you really use the 5-3-3 settings? I would check it and then try this: 5-3/5-0. The first setting is the punch. The 5 settings is very good for 1/12 stock. The second setting is the rate at which the brake is applied. I suggest from 3 to 5 with stock motors. The third setting is the drag brake. Here you claim you are using 3. This is the third highest setting of drag brake the speedo will apply. That means the speedo is braking the speed of your car when you release the throttle to neutral. We don't do this. We run 0 so the car rolls into the corner when we let off the throttle. Making this change should make your car very driveable and easy to go fast.

Some guys put some pre-throttle into their speedo settings so the car rolls when the throttle is on neutral. You do this by settings in your transmitter, not on the speedo. Good luck.
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Old 12-21-2004, 12:28 PM   #9872
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Default Re: 12L4 Questions

Quote:
Originally posted by savio7
Hope one of you guys can help. I have an L4 and it's inconsistent. In one of my qualifiers the car was great. In the main, if I made a hard left or right the car's rear end just swung aroung for no reason. The funny part is that I did not change the setup from my qualifier to the main. Any ideas? The car was fine as far as tweak, ride height and tires. I just can't figure it out.
Could be from the Tire Size decreasing. Or the amount of compound you put on. Sometimes too little in the front wont get you enough steering. Then again it could be the track itself but doubt it.

What compound tires are you using?
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Old 12-21-2004, 12:34 PM   #9873
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
I have had both. I base my decision on lap times. I agree, the non t-bar cars are easier to drive, but lap times, for me, are quicker with a t-bar car.

For batteries, if your not taping the batteries in, check your cars tweak before you put it in, then after. When I had a CRC car, the o-ring would pull the car out of tweak. Maybe the new stiffer chassis is better.

take care
john
You should always tweak your car in a ready to run state. I.E. batteries O-ringed into the car. I'd prefer to run a car with tweak in the chassis due to the O-ring, which I can compensate for with the tweak screws, rather than the hidden tweak in broken fibers in a T-bar, which would just need to be replaced.

Of course, there is a car that has no T-bar that you tape the batteries in, and I have to tell you it's quite a great car.
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Old 12-21-2004, 12:37 PM   #9874
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i have also heard that you should not run the same set of tires all day. THis seams to change the characteristics of the tire throughout the day and increase the amount of traction the tire has through the day to where you have too much by the mains.
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Old 12-21-2004, 12:58 PM   #9875
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Quote:
Originally posted by theisgroup
i have also heard that you should not run the same set of tires all day. THis seams to change the characteristics of the tire throughout the day and increase the amount of traction the tire has through the day to where you have too much by the mains.
I run the same set of tires all day long with hardly anything change in handling characteristics, however after every run, I do clean them with motor spray and wipe it clean, you'll be surprised how much crap is on your foam tires.

Dom
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Old 12-21-2004, 01:03 PM   #9876
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dom,

I think that is a good idea. Cleaning it the way you do is just about the same as putting a new set of tire each run.
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Old 12-21-2004, 01:15 PM   #9877
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Quote:
Originally posted by theisgroup
dom,

I think that is a good idea. Cleaning it the way you do is just about the same as putting a new set of tire each run.
Yeah, I'm no Jaco sponsored, can't afford to put a new set for each run! Heck, my right front on the car right now has so many cuts, it looks like Grand Canyon!

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Old 12-21-2004, 01:21 PM   #9878
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i did not mean a new set of tire each run, but it was sugested to me to have more then one set and to rotate them so that each set of tire only has one run a day, nit more then 2.
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Old 12-21-2004, 01:34 PM   #9879
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That would be quite a few pairs you'll need to bring for racing.... practice, 3 heats and main.... At least 3 sets if you run them 2x a day. But like I said, clean them after each run, sauce them the same amt of time before each run, and really wipe them down well before your run, your tires should have very very similar characteristics on each run....unless it's chunked or different split.
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Old 12-21-2004, 03:11 PM   #9880
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I run 3 pairs of rear tires and 2 pairs of front tires. The rears tend to wear faster than the front. Generally I pick the biggest two of the the fronts and the rears. After my 2 practice runs I'll measure up again to see if they are smaller than any of my others. If so I'll change them out so I keep the biggest tires on the car. This means I'm not messing with my ride height settings all of the time, these settings change gradually over a longer period of time.

The downside to this is if you want to change tire compounds you are stuck with a load of unused tires. I'll be going through this soon as I'm changing from white/purple to pink/dble pink (or maybe magenta not sure yet)
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Old 12-21-2004, 05:06 PM   #9881
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Default Re: Re: 12L4 Questions

Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
Could be from the Tire Size decreasing. Or the amount of compound you put on. Sometimes too little in the front wont get you enough steering. Then again it could be the track itself but doubt it.

What compound tires are you using?
I ran Jaco purple fronts(1.79), grey rears(1.86). Ride height was 3.2mm by the main. It's really weird becuase in the main the car's rear end would tend to swing around if I made a sharp right or left.
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Old 12-21-2004, 05:32 PM   #9882
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Default Re: Re: Re: 12L4 Questions

Quote:
Originally posted by savio7
I ran Jaco purple fronts(1.79), grey rears(1.86). Ride height was 3.2mm by the main. It's really weird becuase in the main the car's rear end would tend to swing around if I made a sharp right or left.
It sounds to me that under severe corning, the outside of the chassis may have been coming in contact with the racing surface therefore unloading the rear tires. You can check this by looking for any build up of residue (traction compound) on the outside, bottom edges of the chassis. Because most of the chassis we use are made of black carbon fiber material, it is some times difficult to determine if there has been contact between chassis and racing surface. Take a clean white cloth, spray some type of cleaner or motor spray on the cloth and wipe the bottom of the chassis doing the outside, bottom edges of the chassis first. You can also check the leading, bottom edge of the motor pot as well with a clean part of the cloth.

If all else fails, put some type of thin, white tape on the chassis and check after every run for contact with the racing surface. I think you will be surprised at what you find.
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Old 12-21-2004, 06:53 PM   #9883
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Default Parma tire question

How do I go about changing the rear end so I can use parma tires.When I put the parmas on the left tire hits the chassi and the rear is about 5 mm narrower.Any help would be great.Thank you in advance.
mike
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Old 12-21-2004, 07:13 PM   #9884
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who makes a good servo saver besides kimbrough? my kimbrough makes this little play that makes my car inconsistent. i can move the tires a bit without even turning the servo. so sometimes its straight and sometimes it crooked. im pretty sure its not my servo. so what servo saver should i get besides kimbrough?
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Old 12-21-2004, 07:29 PM   #9885
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Default Re: Parma tire question

Quote:
Originally posted by whynot
How do I go about changing the rear end so I can use parma tires.When I put the parmas on the left tire hits the chassi and the rear is about 5 mm narrower.Any help would be great.Thank you in advance.
mike
have you tried "flipping" your wheel hub around???? the hubs tend to be wider on one side than the other....
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