R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-21-2016, 07:18 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


Print Wikipost

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-20-2004, 02:47 PM   #9841
Tech Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 856

sg1 - I am thinking about a 1/18th car. Please send me an email to discuss.

David Lee
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2004, 02:54 PM   #9842
Tech Elite
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Maitland, FL
Posts: 2,181
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Roberto Falcon


i want to know which one is a better choice for asphault racing. The RC12L4 or the CRC 3.2r ?

Awesomatix USA - Speed Passion - Superior Hobbies
Roberto Falcon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2004, 02:56 PM   #9843
Tech Master
lazyboy's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Franklin,WI
Posts: 1,536
Send a message via AIM to lazyboy

Originally posted by LoSi xXx S

i want to know which one is a better choice for asphault racing. The RC12L4 or the CRC 3.2r ?

12l4 in my oppion
Random Guy
Sponsored by Axiom Motors
Trackside hobbies
lazyboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2004, 02:59 PM   #9844
Tech Adept
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 148
Send a message via ICQ to Seano

I would say they are both very similar. CRC use associated front end anyway so theres no difference there. I'd say the biggest differences are, no t-bar to break, and uses side springs not tweak screws. Once you have either car set up right for your track I would say you would not find much difference between the two, however for strength and durability i'd go with the CRC
Seano is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2004, 03:00 PM   #9845
Tech Elite
JDXray's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 2,802
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to JDXray

I would go with the Associated L4. The T-Bar really doesnt break unless you in a bad crash. I have Broken one yet.
JDXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2004, 03:03 PM   #9846
Tech Adept
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 148
Send a message via ICQ to Seano

For me that was a big selling point I guess in the end it comes down to your driving style which car would be better. For me, I can drive crc cars better

Last edited by Seano; 12-20-2004 at 03:53 PM.
Seano is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2004, 03:46 PM   #9847
Tech Master
rcgen's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,069

I was in the same situation the l4 or crc 3.2. Both are awesome...I ended up with the crc 3.2 reason being the battery configuration. No split packs which was big plus for me since I race 4cell oval stock and 19t. It will come down to personal perference.
rcgen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2004, 03:51 PM   #9848
Tech Addict
JohnB's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Oregon City, Or
Posts: 674
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)

I have had both. I base my decision on lap times. I agree, the non t-bar cars are easier to drive, but lap times, for me, are quicker with a t-bar car.

For batteries, if your not taping the batteries in, check your cars tweak before you put it in, then after. When I had a CRC car, the o-ring would pull the car out of tweak. Maybe the new stiffer chassis is better.

take care
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2004, 06:32 PM   #9849
Tech Master
hobbipro's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: West Palm Beach
Posts: 1,299
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)

I just received my first 1/12 scale car, a RC12L4 to be exact. Are there different methods for setting the tweak? I'd really like to know the exact steps to set up the t-bar with the set screws, absolutely no information is given in the manual. Their websight wasnt much help either.
hobbipro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2004, 06:49 PM   #9850
Tech Elite
rdub202's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: TeamAcademy/MRC, MI
Posts: 2,359
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rdub202

check the last couple pages...
_|Team Academy GV2 Pro_|_Team Academy SBV2 Pro|_--->Losi xxxbK2 (FOR SALE)
_|Factory Tracks Midwest Series_|_www.factorytracks.com|_
_|Team Upgrade-RCid_|_www.upgrade-rc.com|_
_|MRC/Team Academy_|_www.modelrec.com|_
rdub202 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2004, 07:27 PM   #9851
Tech Master
hobbipro's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: West Palm Beach
Posts: 1,299
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)

Sorry I guess I'm blind, just spent 45 min reading old pages and still do not see any proper methods for setting tweak using the set screws, can someone steer me in the right direction?
hobbipro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2004, 07:58 PM   #9852
Tech Champion
Still Bill's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,004
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)


The 12L4 manual isn't on-line so go to the AE link below and see Page 15 for the 12L3 tweak instructions. Gotta be the same.

Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2004, 08:04 PM   #9853
Tech Addict
JohnB's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Oregon City, Or
Posts: 674
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)

If you don't have a tweak station you can do this:
1/12 forum

If you have a tweak station go here:
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2004, 08:45 PM   #9854
Tech Champion
AdrianM's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default Servo Mounting

How does servo mounting affect the car. I know guys mount servos flat for carpet and angled for asphalt. My car is good on asphalt with the servo flat. Should I bother to angle mount it?
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2004, 08:51 PM   #9855
Tech Fanatic
primusblowsgoat's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Pingree Grove, IL
Posts: 987
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to primusblowsgoat Send a message via Yahoo to primusblowsgoat

for no other reason that because i can, heres some pics of my l4, i finally got the darn thing together and drove it in the hallway of my apartment lol
Schumacher Racing
Schumacher Cat SX2
Schumacher Cougar SV
primusblowsgoat is offline   Reply With Quote

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 04:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 01:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 07:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 08:26 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 4 (0 members and 4 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:01 AM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0