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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-17-2004, 01:25 PM   #9826
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Default 1/12

What's better for 19T and carpet.....t-plate or pivot[hidge?]...anyone ever seen full floating or not attached in this manor???
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Old 12-17-2004, 01:32 PM   #9827
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Default Re: Re: Re: Shock issues

Quote:
Originally posted by Michal101
Wes,

I appreciate it and it looks as though I am NOT the only person having these issues with CRC shocks.

Mike
Even the Silva shock will blow up if the shock and car are not set up properly. While the Silva shock does have a threaded on cap for the shock body, under a sever crash, I have seen the piston come off of the piston rod!!

The trick is so make sure that your shock and car are in sync. When the car is in it's ready to race state, meaning batteries and motor in car, and the droop of the rear pod and the chassis ground clearance is correct, the shock piston should never, ever bottom out or hit the top of the shock when the motor pod moves forward and or aft.

You can check this by placing the car, ready to run, on a flat surface and press down on the antenna. The piston should not bottom out inside of the shock. Next pick up the car and pull down on the back of the motor pod. Again, the piston should not hit the top of the shock. Getting the static length of the shock is tricky but once set right, your car will work much better and you will stop blowing the shock apart. You set the static length of the shock by screwing the ball cups in or out. Sometimes you may have to shorten the ball cups to get the correct static shock length.
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Old 12-17-2004, 04:41 PM   #9828
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Hi Gang,

We have used the Associated VCS shock in our cars for years. I believe Trinity and others do as well. In general, we have good luck with the shock. Recently, I see a few posts here and there regarding the shock popping open on not only CRC cars, but Associated and others as well.

Here are a few suggestions;

Make sure the shock is long enough for the application. On a t-bar car, you want the length of the shock to exceed the length needed when the t-bar is parallel to the chassis. On a link car, the length of the shock should be long enough allow the car to have a slight amount of rear pod droop.

Also, be sure when building the VCS, that there is not too much oil in the shock. Push the shaft all the way down before snapping the star washer into place. This should displace the most amount of oil and therefore allow the shock to build in an "unpressurized" state. If you see the star washer bulging out of it's groove when you fully compress the shock, you have too much oil in it.

Star washers are directional (not by design). The sharper side of the star washer should face toward the shaft end of the shock as you push it in the body. The "sharp" side of the washer is shiny and smoother than the rounded edge side.

Try not to re-use a star washer when rebuilding the shock. Never re-use the washer for a large important race meeting. Get a new rebuild kit and use a fresh, sharp star washer to secure the o-ring package.

Hope this helps with the VCS issue some are having.
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Old 12-19-2004, 11:24 AM   #9829
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ok i bought a L4 and im woundering what color foam tires should i buy for fronts and back? its gonna be raced on asphault and traction is high !

please let me know.
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Old 12-19-2004, 11:30 AM   #9830
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Thats a thing best to ask local racers. Its kinda hard for us since we dont know your track layout, temps, all that stuff.
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Old 12-19-2004, 11:36 AM   #9831
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well im in Florida and the track size is 80ft X 50ft and has tight turns .
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Old 12-19-2004, 11:46 AM   #9832
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Start with purple fronts and pink rears. If you need some more steering go to magenta or double pink fronts. That should be a good starting point for asphalt.

-James
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Old 12-19-2004, 11:51 AM   #9833
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Starting point for carpet?
pls
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Old 12-19-2004, 12:11 PM   #9834
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pizzadude ygpm
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Old 12-19-2004, 12:22 PM   #9835
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Quote:
Originally posted by PizzaDude
Starting point for carpet?
pls
Starting point L4 on carpet:
purple front, grey rear (any brand), no toe in or out at the front wheels, 1degree camber, check after every other run and adjust so the front tires wear flat. Swap left and right tires every other run, so you don't get differnces in diamter. Ride height approx 3.5mm all around. 10degree caster blocks. 30wt shock oil in center shock, green (box stock) spring.
Use traction compound. Rear tires full coating, front 1/4 on the inside. Need more steering?->more traction compound on the front tires. Need less steering? Try no traction compound at the front.
Experiment with different viscositys shock oil in the rear damper plates. Thicker oil-> car doesn't traction roll as fast, but looses steering, thinner oil-> more steering, more likely to roll over in turns.
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Old 12-19-2004, 09:50 PM   #9836
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Shock issues

Quote:
Originally posted by Crashby
Even the Silva shock will blow up if the shock and car are not set up properly. While the Silva shock does have a threaded on cap for the shock body, under a sever crash, I have seen the piston come off of the piston rod!!

The trick is so make sure that your shock and car are in sync. When the car is in it's ready to race state, meaning batteries and motor in car, and the droop of the rear pod and the chassis ground clearance is correct, the shock piston should never, ever bottom out or hit the top of the shock when the motor pod moves forward and or aft.

You can check this by placing the car, ready to run, on a flat surface and press down on the antenna. The piston should not bottom out inside of the shock. Next pick up the car and pull down on the back of the motor pod. Again, the piston should not hit the top of the shock. Getting the static length of the shock is tricky but once set right, your car will work much better and you will stop blowing the shock apart. You set the static length of the shock by screwing the ball cups in or out. Sometimes you may have to shorten the ball cups to get the correct static shock length.
Sounds good. I understand the basic concept you are trying to convey in your message. If you push "down" on the antenna, the chassis should hit the ground/surface before the shock bottoms out. I feel comfortable with that idea.

I am struggling with the understanding of the shock extension when held in the air? If you have your droop set, won't the shock piston bottom out when the shock is extended? If not, then what will cause the extension to "stop" or bottom out when the shock is fully extended.

I am just trying to understand and gather information as this is my first experience in 1/12th scale and I have just recently started blowing out VCS shocks. I am running a CRC CK 3.2.

Thanks,
Joe
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Old 12-20-2004, 10:44 AM   #9837
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Quote:
Originally posted by Team CRC
Hi Gang,

We have used the Associated VCS shock in our cars for years. I believe Trinity and others do as well. In general, we have good luck with the shock. Recently, I see a few posts here and there regarding the shock popping open on not only CRC cars, but Associated and others as well.

Here are a few suggestions;

Make sure the shock is long enough for the application. On a t-bar car, you want the length of the shock to exceed the length needed when the t-bar is parallel to the chassis. On a link car, the length of the shock should be long enough allow the car to have a slight amount of rear pod droop.

Also, be sure when building the VCS, that there is not too much oil in the shock. Push the shaft all the way down before snapping the star washer into place. This should displace the most amount of oil and therefore allow the shock to build in an "unpressurized" state. If you see the star washer bulging out of it's groove when you fully compress the shock, you have too much oil in it.

Star washers are directional (not by design). The sharper side of the star washer should face toward the shaft end of the shock as you push it in the body. The "sharp" side of the washer is shiny and smoother than the rounded edge side.

Try not to re-use a star washer when rebuilding the shock. Never re-use the washer for a large important race meeting. Get a new rebuild kit and use a fresh, sharp star washer to secure the o-ring package.

Hope this helps with the VCS issue some are having.
You the Man Frank.
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Old 12-20-2004, 10:53 AM   #9838
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Default Re: Anyone who runs a speedmerchant?

Quote:
Originally posted by RC12L3a
Does the pivot balls fit associated front end?
No the pivot balls won't work with the Dynamic strut front end. They lack the "shoulder" required. Niftech makes a very nice set of brass balls for that application.
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Old 12-20-2004, 11:20 AM   #9839
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thx

and...i think the niftech and irs ones are really expensive...considering they are just metal balls

too bad that the speedmerchant ones wont work
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Old 12-20-2004, 11:38 AM   #9840
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Check out Team Powerpush's website... the new 1/12 t-plate is on it!!
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