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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-17-2004, 09:15 AM   #9811
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Default Re: Shock issues

Quote:
Originally posted by Michal101
Hi,

I wanted to know if anybody else is having problems with their CRC T fource center shock staying together? My kit has 3 battery packs run through it and tonight I had the shock come apart twice.

Any suggestions..part numbers...etc?

Thanks, Mike
Here's some good info. It's on the CRC web site.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...ewtopic&t=1086
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Old 12-17-2004, 09:16 AM   #9812
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Guys, just received one of the new Parma Zytek 04S bodies. This thing looks AWESOME. Sweet styling and also includes headlights, window, and helmet decals. Nice touch! This thing should rock in 19t and mod!!! Will find out soon.
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Old 12-17-2004, 09:17 AM   #9813
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Buds used to make a pivot ball tool to remove the balls.

I think IRS and Niftech both make brass balls for the front end and for the T-Bar.

The latest batches from Associated fit fine, the ones last year were Junk.
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Old 12-17-2004, 09:18 AM   #9814
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
unregistered-the receiver pack is installed. I charged it first time at 1 amp. Whats the max and what the recommended charge rate and peak detect on the 70maH

Thanks,
Ray

Ray - I assume you are referring to a pack with a 70mah capacity. The best charging rate in always 1/10 the capacity, or in this case 7 mah. However, that charge rate usually ends up taking about 12 hours to complete the charge, unacceptable. So, push it up a little to around 15 mah. And just so you know, the lowest charge rate on the CE Turbo35 Stealth is 15 mah. I usually put the peak detect at .02 for these cells unless they false peak a lot. Then I bump it up till it doesn't false peak. I hope that helps. See you tomorrow.
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Old 12-17-2004, 09:21 AM   #9815
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Quote:
Originally posted by Unregistered
Buds used to make a pivot ball tool to remove the balls.

I think IRS and Niftech both make brass balls for the front end and for the T-Bar.

The latest batches from Associated fit fine, the ones last year were Junk.

The tool I use is from RaceTech. The bad news is that they are out of business.

About the metal pivot balls from IRS. They are aluminum that has been hard anodized with a telon impegnation type coating. You might notice a little flash on the ID, but it goes away with a little running, or you can knock it off with a hobby knife.
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Old 12-17-2004, 09:22 AM   #9816
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Quote:
Originally posted by JBennett
Do any of yall know where I can get a 1/12th scale oval car?
IRS has a little 1/12 oval rocket on their website. It was designed by Duane Silva and it really, really good.
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Old 12-17-2004, 09:25 AM   #9817
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Quote:
Originally posted by Unregistered
I would only charge them at .5 amps max with a .01 or .02 drop back.

I've charged them at .7 amps with a .03 drop back but I get them for free...

I'll see ya at Halo tomorrow...

Sorry I stepped on your post as I was drafting mine at the same time. Say hello when you arrive tomorrow.
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Old 12-17-2004, 09:53 AM   #9818
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Anyone have a L4 they are looking to get rid of?
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Old 12-17-2004, 10:05 AM   #9819
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Default Re: Re: Shock issues

Quote:
Originally posted by Weschester
Here's some good info. It's on the CRC web site.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...ewtopic&t=1086
Wes,

I appreciate it and it looks as though I am NOT the only person having these issues with CRC shocks.

Mike
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Old 12-17-2004, 12:18 PM   #9820
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Quote:
Originally posted by v0rtex
Just dragging up my post; I didnt get any replies
http://home.comcast.net/~mlufaso/rc/12l4/
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Old 12-17-2004, 12:37 PM   #9821
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Default Re: Re: Re: Shock issues

Quote:
Originally posted by Michal101
Wes,

I appreciate it and it looks as though I am NOT the only person having these issues with CRC shocks.

Mike
Well-technically-its not a CRC problem-its a link car problem-any link car. YOu dont really see t-bar cars do this becuase the rear pod can only move so far back-unless the t-bar breaks-in which case you got a lot bigger problems. And yes-having a tad more droop will help-but its not really the proper set-up to have excessive droop in the cars. The only solutions are the Silva shock or a new star clip.
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Old 12-17-2004, 12:45 PM   #9822
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Silva shock is the only way to go....
Every thing I have that used micro shocks now has a Silva on it....

AE should include it in the kits.....

fatdoggy: I read that site all the time...
It has some great info....
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Old 12-17-2004, 01:01 PM   #9823
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Quote:
Originally posted by JBennett
Do any of yall know where I can get a 1/12th scale oval car?
Try Jake’s Performance Hobbies in Rohnert Park, CA.. Jake has a beautiful 1/12th oval conversion kit that he has done a lot of development work on and, I think he currently has a special introductory price going on right now. Jake is an oval fanatic and a really great guy! He will help you with other oval parts as well as setups. He also carries the full line of Silva components and other oval manufacture's parts.

Jake's Performance Hobbies
707-586-3375
www.jphracing.com
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Old 12-17-2004, 01:03 PM   #9824
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Default Anyone who runs a speedmerchant?

Does the pivot balls fit associated front end?
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Old 12-17-2004, 01:07 PM   #9825
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Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
http://home.comcast.net/~mlufaso/rc/12l4/
Awesome fatdoggy; cheers.
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