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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-13-2004, 04:30 PM   #9766
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You should run 64 to get more accurate roll outs.
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Old 12-13-2004, 05:02 PM   #9767
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Quote:
Originally posted by lazyboy
My little brother is getting into 1/12 scale soon and im most likey giving him my 12l4 ,since im such a nice brother ..anyways i was looking at the cefx c12 and the crc t-force and i cant decided on what one i want, usualy i'd get both but im deciding on not going down that path this time..could the ppl that own either one give me there pro's and con's to both of these 1/12scales?


thanks for the input

lazyboy
Lazyboy,
All I can say is the tfource is a great car my son and I both have one and we love them.And you wont have to tape your batts.And they are pretty too.
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Old 12-13-2004, 05:25 PM   #9768
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Quote:
Originally posted by whynot
Lazyboy,
All I can say is the tfource is a great car my son and I both have one and we love them.And you wont have to tape your batts.And they are pretty too.
Yea I have the t-force as my wallpaper on my pc, and every time my desktop is clean I drool over it because of all the shinny red on it ,for never running a damper tube car, what are they like to matance wise.
(sorry for that bad spelling)

lazy
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Old 12-13-2004, 07:38 PM   #9769
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T-Force

For all you T-Force owners out there...I'm wondering what way most of you tweek the car? Do most of you use the SIDE SPRINGS or the TWEEK SCREWS on the T plate. And why?
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Old 12-13-2004, 08:25 PM   #9770
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Default Re: T-Force

Quote:
Originally posted by Twin 1 Kevin
For all you T-Force owners out there...I'm wondering what way most of you tweek the car? Do most of you use the SIDE SPRINGS or the TWEEK SCREWS on the T plate. And why?
I use the Tplate.And that is another reason to get the tfource cause you can use the tplate or the springs I forgot about that,I will probably give the springs a try at my next practice and see how the car feels with them.
mike
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Old 12-13-2004, 08:35 PM   #9771
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Default Re: T-Force

Quote:
Originally posted by Twin 1 Kevin
For all you T-Force owners out there...I'm wondering what way most of you tweek the car? Do most of you use the SIDE SPRINGS or the TWEEK SCREWS on the T plate. And why?
I've tested the T-Fource with both side springs and tweek screws (Not both at the same time).

I find the side springs are the way to go for me. I use the red springs with about 1.5 turns of preload on each. The car is very quick in the corners, the transition is excellent and it centers up very well. The best thing is it holds the tweek way longer than with tweek screws. Even after a big hit, it is still right on tweek.

Tweek screws work well on the T-Fource too. I guess it's just a matter of preference.
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Old 12-13-2004, 10:22 PM   #9772
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How about a good setup for an RC12 L3 Touring car on carpet? I'm completely new to this and don't know where to start!!
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Old 12-13-2004, 10:31 PM   #9773
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well i got my parma tires in the mail today. and right away i went to mount them. and thats where i had trouble, first the bearings can move free in the front wheel, do i need flanged bearings?

second I cant get the bearings to fit over the axle, they are the kit bearings for my l4, and i cant get any of them over the axle any ideas?

third, i shimmed the axle according to the directions but i cant get the tire opposite the spur on because the tire rubs the pod

whats going on here am i missing something?
did i do something wrong?
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Old 12-13-2004, 11:24 PM   #9774
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Quote:
Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
well i got my parma tires in the mail today. and right away i went to mount them. and thats where i had trouble, first the bearings can move free in the front wheel, do i need flanged bearings?

second I cant get the bearings to fit over the axle, they are the kit bearings for my l4, and i cant get any of them over the axle any ideas?

third, i shimmed the axle according to the directions but i cant get the tire opposite the spur on because the tire rubs the pod

whats going on here am i missing something?
did i do something wrong?
Parma fronts require flanged bearings

If you are talking about the rear axle bearings not fitting, some times the graphite axles are a little fat. I don't know of any fix other than to sand down the axle a little.

The directions for your L4 tell you to shim the axle for tires like Jacos, which have no offset on the inside of the wheel. If you look at the Parma wheels, you will see that the mounting surface is recessed to the edge of the wheel. You need to space the hub out enough to make the wheel clear the pod. Make sure you shim the other side out the same amount to keep the wheels centered to the chassis.
O'D
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Old 12-14-2004, 08:39 AM   #9775
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Quote:
Originally posted by scottyhill
Has anyone tried out those BSR radials for 12th scale.

I'm only asking as we have a new indoor track opening soon which is concrete surface, just wanted to know what compounds would be the best 4 it?

Thanks.
Unless the track is a banked concrete oval, you'll wanna stick with foams. Radials don'[t provide the necessary sidebite or forward traction for flat track racing, roadcourse or oval.
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Old 12-14-2004, 09:14 AM   #9776
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ok the rear shimming wont be a problem, ill just have to buy some shims cause i dont have anymore.

the bearings im refering to are the front axle bearings, they wont fit over the axle and i dont want to force them
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Old 12-14-2004, 09:27 AM   #9777
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pro ten Holland
My friends Ronald and Richard Arts build this one for the older brother Ronald.
They are in the proces of refining it. When they're finished they'll build one for Richard. Where it goes on from there, they don't know yet. We gathered idea's from pictures from the internet and our pro 10 experience to make up this design.
Thanks guy's VERY COOL!!!..this is what i'm looking for, there must be more guy's out there who have made there own...come on don't be shy POST A PIC!!!!!
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Old 12-14-2004, 09:42 AM   #9778
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I myself use the TRC tires on my L3 and i have always just filed down the rear pod where the wheel-tire hits I have used this method on asphalt and on carpet it has always worked well. Just take off a mm of graphite about an inch in then use one shim on each side and you are set.
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Old 12-14-2004, 11:57 AM   #9779
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Quote:
Originally posted by snapt123
I myself use the TRC tires on my L3 and i have always just filed down the rear pod where the wheel-tire hits I have used this method on asphalt and on carpet it has always worked well. Just take off a mm of graphite about an inch in then use one shim on each side and you are set.
that's fine if you don't want to run the rear track at full width
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Old 12-14-2004, 12:16 PM   #9780
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anyone know of an online hobby shop that would have the flanged bearings i need to run parma front tires, and some rear axle shims.
but heres the kicker, i dont have a credit card but ive got some cash in my paypal account so a store that accepted paypal would be ideal
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