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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 12-12-2004, 04:41 PM   #9751
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are there any front axle that will fit the 12l3 besides the one for 10l? coz the stock one sucks and uses E-clips to hold the wheels. my wheels keep flying around.
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Old 12-12-2004, 04:55 PM   #9752
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Originally posted by dakrat
wow! very clever i like the bumper. what chassis is that?
If your asking what kind of car, its an L3. If your asking about the actual chassis then that would be mine. I designed it around an L3.
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Old 12-12-2004, 05:15 PM   #9753
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Default L3 adjustments

Trying to get a handle on this 1/12 thing.Got a couple of questions...did a search with no real luck. Any help is appreciated. 1) The center shock...Tighter/looser on the spring has what effect?Is it tighter for nore rear traction or looser?2)With the spring connected,I can't get the rear pod to sit level with the chassis,it's always at an angle to the chassis.Is this normal?Should I shorten one of the ballcups?Or not worry? 3)the pod damper washers spring,the vertical one.tighter/looser does what?How does adding washers to this differ from adding lube to the damper washers?Thanks in advance,Mario.

Last edited by lotus1; 12-12-2004 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 12-12-2004, 06:50 PM   #9754
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Originally posted by dakrat
are there any front axle that will fit the 12l3 besides the one for 10l? coz the stock one sucks and uses E-clips to hold the wheels. my wheels keep flying around.
I would imagine the Wolfe inline axles would work or the 10l4 axles both are threaded
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Old 12-12-2004, 07:07 PM   #9755
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I know that speedmerchant makes one that you can use, that are threaded and not e-clips, but also the lunsford ones, and I think the crc ones, as well as the parma ones work as well, and are all threaded and not e-clips.
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Old 12-12-2004, 07:37 PM   #9756
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Has anyone tried out those BSR radials for 12th scale.

I'm only asking as we have a new indoor track opening soon which is concrete surface, just wanted to know what compounds would be the best 4 it?

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Old 12-13-2004, 01:55 AM   #9757
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Default Re: 1/12

Originally posted by 6Cuda6
Anyone here build/design there own car [from scratch that is]...pics..thanks
My friends Ronald and Richard Arts build this one for the older brother Ronald.
They are in the proces of refining it. When they're finished they'll build one for Richard. Where it goes on from there, they don't know yet. We gathered idea's from pictures from the internet and our pro 10 experience to make up this design.
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Old 12-13-2004, 01:57 AM   #9758
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Default picture 2

see attachment
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Old 12-13-2004, 06:44 AM   #9759
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Default Best 1/12 Stock Motor

Anyone have opinions on the best Stock Motor for 12th Scale?

Brush/spring setup and rollout for a track 95x50?

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Old 12-13-2004, 08:02 AM   #9760
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how do make the pivot ball for the front move freely...and how do u remove them without deforming them....

thk heaps...urgent...
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Old 12-13-2004, 08:17 AM   #9761
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Default Yokomo

Anybody have a good stock setup for a yokomo 12th...
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Old 12-13-2004, 08:44 AM   #9762
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adjust the center spring so that when the car is on the table the chassis is level from front to rear, usually level with the rear pod ride height. The damper spring and using spacers to change spring tension is not a usual adjustment, what is normally done is using different viscosity substances on the plates to affect the dampening.

find a suitably shaped tool and just press them out, I might recommend the assoc plastic tools that come with their kits; theres one side of the cups thats more open than the other push it out that way
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Old 12-13-2004, 02:37 PM   #9763
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anyone drive the AH12 conversion? does it convert from an L3? whats better or worse about it from L3 to it?
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Old 12-13-2004, 03:17 PM   #9764
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Whats a good 27 turn motor? Also for the 12L4 what pitch pinion? 48 or 64?
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Old 12-13-2004, 03:29 PM   #9765
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Originally posted by rdub202
anyone drive the AH12 conversion? does it convert from an L3? whats better or worse about it from L3 to it?
I dont have one, but i know its a conversion kit for the L3/4 and yokomo yrx. I was thinking of getting it or the the new slapmaster or Rev 4. Dunno what i am picking yet. But overall my L4 is sweett. I am gonna make a few adjustments and hopefully get it to run before the holidays with the new adjustments.

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