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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 05-27-2002, 05:08 PM   #961
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Slayer - IMy seat was in the J Stand Sunday. Where was your's?
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Old 05-28-2002, 03:39 PM   #962
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David...... i set on the grass hill(family section)....it took us 12 hours to get there.

Got a new Knife i gotta try out.....sometime......
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Old 05-28-2002, 10:23 PM   #963
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Hi all,

Anyone whom posts here with any frequency knows about the 66 nova station wagon my father, brother and I are working on( ask Darnold, he's seen the pictures). If any one is interested in how things are going, I had the engine dyno'ed last week and it made 676 Horsepower and 633 ft-lbs of torque! All with a steady 800rpm idle, easy starting, and( this is the part that no one believes) 92 octane gas! My dad and I are in the process now of doing the tin work, and the pieces are made for the back, up to the back doors, as well as the doors themselves and the dash.
Sorry for the self-indulgence guys, but I am so excited. All of the major work is being done by my dad, my brother and I, with the exception of the engine and transmission, which was done by a good friend of the family. Sure, you can buy one already done, but building your own and working your collective butt off to afford the vitals are what really make it worth it in the end-anyone who has built a race car knows what I mean. Just thought I'd share- sorry for the self-indulgence.

Does anyone else that posts here race 1:1 cars as well? What do you have? where do you run? My car will be a drag car, if you haven't figured it out. Wagons aren't the first choice for circle track, road, or rally racing.

Keep the shiny side up!
Dave S
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Old 05-29-2002, 09:18 AM   #964
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Sounds great!

To answer your question, I have a 93 LX that I ran in Street Outlaw type classes. I usually ran in the DOT tire/stock suspension classes. It had one plate, 352ci, C4 auto, full stock interior and ran 9.70's/6.20's with DOT tires. The last time I tried to run full slicks it stood up on the bumper and carried the wheels about 150'. Luckily I had the presence of mind to pedal the nitrous switch and it didn't quite hit the bumper. It woulda sucked to tear the bumper off of an original paint 30K mile car...

Well good luck with the rest of the draggin waggin!!
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Old 05-29-2002, 10:38 AM   #965
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Comon guys, focus! 1/12 scale 1/12 scale 1/12 scale
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Old 05-29-2002, 01:58 PM   #966
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12L3 Rear Pod

I am new to racing 12th scale. I will be running in the stock motor class. On carpet.

When you set the rear pod do you adjust the shock until the pod is level with the chassis? Or is it angled slightly up?
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Old 05-29-2002, 02:20 PM   #967
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Put an associated #10 washer i think under the front of the T-bar and set it so it has just a little bit of droop, like .030
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Old 05-29-2002, 09:38 PM   #968
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Does anyone know who makes the alloy servo mounting blocks for the 12L3? Also can you include a website link? Thanks in advance.
Kyosho ST-RR
Kyosho SP2

E-Flite Blade CX2 Heli
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Old 05-30-2002, 02:29 PM   #969
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crc makes adjustable ones i think, and speedmerchant makes stationary ones
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Old 05-30-2002, 06:31 PM   #970
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I have never owned a pan car before, but am considering a 12L3. Can someone make me a good list of "Must do" hopup's that I should consider? I am talking about axels, dif parts etc.
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Old 05-31-2002, 02:19 AM   #971
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Default Roll Out for 11X2

need help in finding a suitable roll out or gear combination to use for D4 base 11X2 ... thanks in advance
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Old 05-31-2002, 08:02 PM   #972
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trikster - niff tech diff, rear axel and hubs.

stik - what size track?
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Old 06-01-2002, 02:31 PM   #973
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There you go DaveL- Get them to focus on our 12th scale passion.

Trikster- No hop ups needed other than possibly a thick t-bar (.075" vs. the stock think t-bar of .063"). Although when I ran the 6pak a year ago before going from CRC over to privately racing a Spashett 02 edition I used the RaceTech front strut brace ($10) to stiffen the front end. Beware though because they can be bent eventually. If you race on carpet (i'm assuming you get to use traction compound) you may want to use the older LC chassis plate due to its extra thickness if you can get one. Other than that check out the setups from pages past.

DaveS- Very glad to hear how your drag car is coming along, tell Pete I said hi please. As for me I plan on running my ZXtt in a solo event at Blackhawk and one Autocross event later this summer in Aug and early Sept. when the business situation gets better, so I guess I really should say that I hope and plan on doing it. I'm a road course man through and through I guess.

Stik- Gearing on an 11turn, as a guess I would go 27/100 (64pitch) with 1.85" rear tire diameter, maybe 28/100. That should put you into the powerband as I re-learned from the Norrca Carpet Nats a couple of months ago.
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Old 06-02-2002, 10:06 PM   #974
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Dang....didnt get to try my Knife this weekend

How did everybody else do????
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Old 06-03-2002, 08:42 PM   #975
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Dragon Slayer,

Petenis blew the cobwebs off of his LC between taxi rounds and turned some laps, albeit uncounted, but controller time is controller time. He said it was a lot better than before, and wanted to say thanks to Darnold for all of his insight and helpful hints. I haven't had a chance to even look at my 12L3, and the last time I ran it I only got one freakin' lap with it, but a 14.5 at TCHR from a standing start is not too shabby. But that was three weeks ago! A lot of the people whom are big hitters during the winter do the onroad gas thing in the summer, and everyone else that has one doesn't want to run modified. I have been kicking some kiester in sedan sportsman, and Petenis just resurrected his Schumacher SST '99 so we are both going to race taxi until 1/12 mod picks up again. I think it is a step backwards, and it will probably hurt my driving in the long run, but I am still on a quest to get back to where I was and surpass myself as far as driving goes. The best outing I have ever had was the NORRCA Nats this year, and Darnold can attest to how crappy my driving is. But still, if anyone told me a year ago that after two years of not racing, I would be in the top ten qualifiers in the NORRCA Nats( so what if there was an 11 car field-I out qualified one!) in mod 1/12 scale, which I had only been doing for about two months prior to that, I wouldn't have believed you! I was a sedan guy through and through, but when my brother started running 1/12 scale stock with a car that was older than my RS4 Pro- and winning- I decided to give it a try. Now I am hooked, and like 1/12 (mod or stock) way better than sedan.
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