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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-10-2004, 09:28 AM   #9691
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You can get battery braid to solder the cells together. It's desoldering braid and you can get it from your local Radioshack.
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Old 12-10-2004, 10:10 AM   #9692
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Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
What do you guys use to connect those small batteries to make a receiver pack? I've tried looking for some Deans bars but they only have standard size for the sub c's.
I use old brush shunts as battery bars. If you replace one of the bars with a switch from an old ESC you can leave the receiver pack plugged in and use the switch to turn it on and off.

-James
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Old 12-10-2004, 11:04 AM   #9693
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Default cefx

I'm looking at getting the cefx c12 car, and i was just woundering what is in the kit, besides the car..i read a few pages back or on some other thread about it coming with a body and tires? is there anything else , and stuff i should consider getting..I currently own a 12l4 so i know what im doing,and im just looking at getting this for a back up car.


thanks for the help

lazy
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Old 12-10-2004, 11:12 AM   #9694
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Default Re: cefx

Quote:
Originally posted by lazyboy
I'm looking at getting the cefx c12 car, and i was just woundering what is in the kit, besides the car..i read a few pages back or on some other thread about it coming with a body and tires? is there anything else , and stuff i should consider getting..I currently own a 12l4 so i know what im doing,and im just looking at getting this for a back up car.


thanks for the help

lazy
It comes with the CEFX body and Jaco tires. It's got lots of good stuff including an IRS diff so I don't think you need anything else.
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Old 12-10-2004, 11:27 AM   #9695
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Default Re: cefx

Quote:
Originally posted by lazyboy
I'm looking at getting the cefx c12 car, and i was just woundering what is in the kit, besides the car..i read a few pages back or on some other thread about it coming with a body and tires? is there anything else , and stuff i should consider getting..I currently own a 12l4 so i know what im doing,and im just looking at getting this for a back up car.


thanks for the help

lazy
Have you got that L4 mastered allready
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Old 12-10-2004, 11:33 AM   #9696
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Default Re: Re: cefx

Quote:
Originally posted by Skip109
Have you got that L4 mastered allready
i got the setup part down pretty good,, the driver needs to learn to drive clean after the 5min mark.... and after novak i think im just going to be running 1/12 till the foam sedan season picks up again. so i should have it down pat by the end of the summer
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Old 12-10-2004, 12:44 PM   #9697
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Has anyone done any Modifications to there L4 that is affective? I have seen some on the CRC's. Just wondering

Jon
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Old 12-10-2004, 12:48 PM   #9698
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
Has anyone done any Modifications to there L4 that is affective? I have seen some on the CRC's. Just wondering

Jon
I am running as are a few other local drivers-a 2.5mm quasi-isotrpic carbon fiber chassis. I race on carpet-not outdoors. Also-good luck with IRS pillow balls on the t-plate and IRS/Silva center shock. Very smooth.
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Old 12-10-2004, 12:50 PM   #9699
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
I am running as are a few other local drivers-a 2.5mm quasi-isotrpic carbon fiber chassis. I race on carpet-not outdoors. Also-good luck with IRS pillow balls on the t-plate and IRS/Silva center shock. Very smooth.
Thanks Ray for the reply. What is the 2.5mm quasi-istrpic chassis? Never heard of it and how does it comepare to the BMI?
I only run carpet as well and i will look into the IRS pillow balls on the t-plate and IRS/Silva center shock.

Jon
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Old 12-10-2004, 12:56 PM   #9700
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The chassis is an almost exact replica of the stock L4 chassis-only it has additional mounting holes for things like turning your shock mount sideways right or left and also extra mounting holes for different types of servos. Since they are thicker-the battery area has been milled down so that the plastic battery trays fit lower and the cutouts were perfect fit to the battery box. We had them cut by BMI, but hes so busy right now-I cannot get anymore done. I know everyone who had them on for the US Indoor Champs was happy with their performance. When I get more done-I'll post it here. I have a pic of the three I sold here on RCtech a few weeks ago. Sold FAST!!

Ray
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Old 12-10-2004, 03:02 PM   #9701
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"Quasi Isotropic Carbon Fiber Chassis" HAHAHA! What a great name! Here are some definitions for everyone...

Isotropic:
Identical in all directions; invariant with respect to direction.

Quasi:
To some degree; in some manner:

So the material of chassis is to some degree the same in all directions. Thought that was funny.

When are the quasi-semi circular plaid and grays coming out? Kidding!
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Old 12-10-2004, 03:26 PM   #9702
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Default Receiver pack info

Quote:
Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
well, i understand what i have to do when running a receiver pack, but i dont get how it works, anyone bored enough to draw up a simple diagram showing how it works? i feel like a retard this morning
info from a older post, i did way back:

this works with the LRP Q-comp and Novak GT7 .

removing the red wire was something i only had to do on older ESC's

i have a old TEKIN 2 channel rec. i took the AMB transponder wires out of the plug, then routed/cut 2 1/8" channels into the plastic plug. soldered my rec-pack wires onto the top of the gold pins then reinserted into the plug. basically the rec pk and x-ponder are using the same plug. i add a Novak switch for the rec-pk. when i turn the rec-pk....... the ESC, servo, x-pond, & Rec turn on.

if you don't use a personal X-ponder just plug the rec pk into the rec. however if you don't add a on/off switch to your rec pk your car will turn on.

i did not pull the red wire from the esc to the rec. the switch for my LRP & GT7 does not get used (AND SHOULD NOT) so i removed it completely. i mount mine in a 3-2 hump config on the t-bar like the Trinity drivers used to on the SwitchBlade cars. the CRC and SM non-t-bar racers run then usually in a 5-cell flat stick config behind the servo

4-cells power the motor

5-cell micro pk powers the 4 (ESC, SERVO, REC & X-POND) items, also steering is quicker due to increased voltage

weight i don't believe is much of a issue. where i race AMB shop x-ponders (huge for a 12th scale) are used at every race. My personal x-ponder and the 5-cell pk probably weight the same +or - a few grams

i charge mine after 2 heats on a Noval Mil Pro charger at 1 amp and have had no problems on a pack that is over 1 year old. the car was raced twice a week for 6+ monsth to top that


NOTE: on some ESCs, if you remove the red wire going into the REC from the ESC....then your 4-cell pk powers the ESC and Motor. you have to turn on your REC PK first then the ESC. reverse when shutting down.

Not all ESCs are the same when it comes down to receiving power from the REC when the red wire is left in. in this config you may end up draining some of your REC=PK into the motor..........not sure


hope this helps you und das Carbonator

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 12-10-2004 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 12-10-2004, 03:44 PM   #9703
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doses anyone have any pictures of a cefx car that they are willing to post.


thanks lazy
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Old 12-10-2004, 04:52 PM   #9704
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I thinking about getting a 1/12 scale for on-road. Only problem is I mostly do 1/10 scale oval. I was wondering if there is an 1/12 scale on-road chassis that does not have use the split battery layout.
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Old 12-10-2004, 04:57 PM   #9705
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i beleive the crc are 4 cell in side by side config.
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