R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-08-2004, 02:57 PM   #9646
P2
Tech Fanatic
 
P2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oahu, Hi
Posts: 865
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
No like a good setup board for dialing the suspension.
Get a Hudy setup board or similar, I use a large piece of plexiglass. Also get a MIP tweak station, works wonders for 1/12th scale cars Most important is practice, practice, and don't forget to practice
__________________
TopRacingUSA | Team EPIC | Thunder Power | OD Racing
P2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2004, 03:17 PM   #9647
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

If you want a very good tweak station, check this out.... It's a bit expensive to start, but well worth each penny!

http://www.unitytool.com/Unity_Tools...ek_boards.html

Dom
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2004, 11:57 PM   #9648
Tech Master
 
Number 11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kenmore, WA
Posts: 1,377
Default

Well I know what I want for Christmas. I had the hardest time deciding this year until tonight. I got a chance to drive the Slapmaster and man oh man what an awesome car. Brian was nice enough to had over the remote to me during the main because I smacked into a pipe and messed up my body, so I was out.

Anyway I started out slow because the car had a completely different feel to it than my L3. The faster I drove it the better the car handled. Which amazed me even more compared to my L3 the faster I drive it the worse it got. The most amazing thing is it felt like I was driving slow but the lap times where the lowest I have ever turned. This car is so smooth it is incredible. I can't even put it into words how this chassis feels compared to my L3 and L4. But I can tell you this I can't wait until the 25th.
Number 11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 06:21 AM   #9649
Tech Fanatic
 
tfrahm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Missouri
Posts: 954
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to tfrahm
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by P2
...Also get a MIP tweak station, works wonders for 1/12th scale cars
I must have an old version of the MIP -- mine will not shorten down to fit a 12th scale car. It works great for 10th scale, but the larger diameter portion of the center shaft is too long for any thing shorter...?
__________________
"If you cannot win, make the one ahead of you break the record."
Biff Racing Team #420 (Ah... The "good old days"...)
The local indoor Offroad Track: The RC Race Barn
TLR22-3.0, TLR22T-2.0, TLR22SCT-1.0
tfrahm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 06:22 AM   #9650
Tech Fanatic
 
tfrahm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Missouri
Posts: 954
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to tfrahm
Angry Calandra web site ?????????

Hey -- anyone know what happened to the Calandra web site forums? I noticed last night and this morning it is GONE!/"broken"? ...?????

UPDATE:... Hmmm... it seems my "Favorites" don't work for Calandra... I tried two different workstations, and on both of them, I get a page not found for the "Favorite" link that worked a few days ago... HOWEVER -- if I do a google search, and click on that link, it works... Hmmm... I'm so confused!

This is the 'new' URL that "works" for going directly to the forums
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?name=Forums

This is the URL that worked earlier this week...
http://www.teamcrc.com/php/modules.php?name=Forums

The URL for the 'home' page didn't change -- just the forums..?
__________________
"If you cannot win, make the one ahead of you break the record."
Biff Racing Team #420 (Ah... The "good old days"...)
The local indoor Offroad Track: The RC Race Barn
TLR22-3.0, TLR22T-2.0, TLR22SCT-1.0

Last edited by tfrahm; 12-09-2004 at 06:31 AM.
tfrahm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 09:32 AM   #9651
Tech Regular
 
johnnywhopper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Rome, NY
Posts: 371
Default

anyone looking for the Team CRC website, simply start out at www.teamcrc.com and everything will work fine. you will have to replace any of your current "favorites" links once inside the site.

As I'm sure many of you have noticed, the website has been pretty slow the last couple months. We have changed servers and things are working much quicker now. This change is what has caused your links to fail. Simply replace your current links and everything should be just fine.


John
__________________
Team CRC, Spektrum, Hobbywing, JDJ Vinyl Graphics, Moby Graphix, Black Art, Power Push
johnnywhopper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 10:25 AM   #9652
Tech Champion
 
rayhuang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 6,511
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rayhuang
Default

John-wow!! Like going frm a bad dream running in glue to having turbo sneakers on!!
rayhuang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 12:17 PM   #9653
Moderator
 
Clegg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,602
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

I have a question about ESC tuning for 1/12th stock.

I havea Novak Atom ESC in my RC12L3 w/ a Team1 Assassin plant.

Now I am currious what is the prefered settings for the ESC for drive frequency, etc...

Drive Freqency -
5,860 (Profile 1); 7,860 (Profile 2); 15,600 (Profile 3). Adjustable from 122 to 23,400 with optional Pit Wizard or ESC Profile Software.

Is a lower frequency better than a higher one with stock? I want to get a bit more punch from the ESC than it currently has. Any help would be appreciated. I have a used Pit Wizzard I am getting from a friend so I would like to know what I should tune the ESC to.

Heres a page with the full breakdown on some of the specs:
http://www.teamnovak.com/products/ES...cont_index.htm

I figure the ESC is nice and small and light so its perfect for stock 1/12th.
__________________
Joe Kelly - JK720.net
5280 Raceway |5280raceway.com | 5280 Raceway Facebook
Clegg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 12:30 PM   #9654
Moderator
 
Clegg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,602
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default Re: Equipment for 12th scale

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
What equipment items are needed for 12th scale? What's a good setup or tweak station? What do you guys do to prepare for a big race? Thanks in advance.
Well last night to prep for the Midwest touring series race on Saturday.

I cleaned the car up, cleaned out the bearings, checked all teh bearings, repaired any damaged items on teh car, checked the T Plate for cracks, lapped (sanded) the diff rings, put new balls in the diff.

Then went and put a motor in it, batteries and soldered it all up, and put in on the MIP tweak board and worked that all out.

Then went and worked out the Toe in/out and camber on the car.

then True'd a set of wheel/tires, and comm's on all the motors and replaced the brushes on them and broke them all in.


If that gives you an idea of what stuff to look at doing before a big race.
__________________
Joe Kelly - JK720.net
5280 Raceway |5280raceway.com | 5280 Raceway Facebook
Clegg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 01:01 PM   #9655
Tech Fanatic
 
revzalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Nor * Cal
Posts: 959
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the info Clegg. What do you use to check toe?
__________________
www.revzalotmotorsports.com
revzalot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 01:39 PM   #9656
Moderator
 
Clegg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,602
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

I have a PMB setup board for 1/10th cars. and the car sits perfectly between the vertical marks between teh front sedan toe in hash marks. I just set the car inbetween them and made sure teh car was nice and parallel to the lines. The lines that run right next to the front tires on either side make it easy to look down and see what angle the wheels are pointed.
__________________
Joe Kelly - JK720.net
5280 Raceway |5280raceway.com | 5280 Raceway Facebook
Clegg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 06:46 PM   #9657
Tech Addict
 
Drew_Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 609
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
Thanks for the info Clegg. What do you use to check toe?
Ultra Precision Front End Alignment, Camber and Rear Wheel to Center of Chassis Tool
__________________
Items for sale:

TURBO GFX>>>> http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4329165#post4329165
Tekin Battery Nurse >>>> http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4329173#post4329173

Thanks for looking
Drew_Cat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 06:47 PM   #9658
Tech Addict
 
Drew_Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 609
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

just a little expensive!
__________________
Items for sale:

TURBO GFX>>>> http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4329165#post4329165
Tekin Battery Nurse >>>> http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4329173#post4329173

Thanks for looking
Drew_Cat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 07:54 PM   #9659
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Wixom, MI
Posts: 105
Default

Hey guys, Im getting a RC12L4 and im going to be runing it at a local indoor track. i dont want to run a brushed motor becasue of the maintenece and tuning involved and all the crap you have to buy. so i decided on the novak brushless 5800 motor and ESC. do you think this wil be a O.K setup?

And with the foam tires, do they have to be trued or how can i true them my self, what type of tire truer will i need to get?

And if anyone has any good beginner tips for assembely and tunning thatwould be great!

Anyhelp thanks.
Chad_R40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 08:11 PM   #9660
Tech Elite
 
rdub202's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: TeamAcademy/MRC, MI
Posts: 2,359
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rdub202
Default

novi huh, where u racing??
__________________
_|Team Academy GV2 Pro_|_Team Academy SBV2 Pro|_--->Losi xxxbK2 (FOR SALE)
_|Factory Tracks Midwest Series_|_www.factorytracks.com|_
_|Team Upgrade-RCid_|_www.upgrade-rc.com|_
_|MRC/Team Academy_|_www.modelrec.com|_
rdub202 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:58 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0