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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-07-2004, 11:21 PM   #9631
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Default Re: best buy

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
But I just got a CEFX kit and I was surprised to see that it comes with usable tires and a body and titanium front axles (among other things). I think that makes it a great value in a 1/12th scale kit.
Sorry to drag up an old post, but I would just like confirmation that the CEFX car DOES come with a body. If so, what body does it come with? Just the standard CEFX body? Just planning my first 1/12th car purchase, and weighing up my options at the moment.

So far the C12 is my fav (Josh Cyrul is a champ and drives and Xray too ), followed by the CRC 3.2 and the RC12L4.

I will be primarily racing on Carpet (ozite), but perhaps will be running on Ashphalt if there is enough interest here where we run. Therefore, a T-bar car is better suited to carpet, is it not? Or have I got it backwards...

How are the front arms on the C12? Break easy? Anything else break easy?

Our class is not defined yet, but I am hoping it will be something like a controlled 19T class. Also, what do you think of having a control Foam tire in the 1/12th's? Im just looking for ways of cutting the cost so its a little more affordable to run 2 classes at the one meeting (1/12th and TC) not only for myself but for other club members. Our TC's will all be running on rubber control tires also.

Cheers

James
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Old 12-07-2004, 11:45 PM   #9632
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I'm leaning towards C12 and 12L4 so far but the C12 looks like the better deal with functional tires. I believe the body for the C12 is the CEFX C-LMP900 which is pretty nice although I'd like to get the Parma Speed 8. With a lot of newer kits coming out, this class will become as popular as the TCs. Why? They're 2F2F.
Add a brushless and LiPoly and we can have 20 minute mains. Maybe I'm thinking too far ahead.
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Old 12-08-2004, 07:38 AM   #9633
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I have ran the L4, and all i can say is that its sweeett.. and the CRC 3.2 is dialed as well. My bro was looking into the CEFX or the new CRC t-force.

Any comments on the TForce yet????
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Old 12-08-2004, 09:06 AM   #9634
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray

Any comments on the TForce yet????
3 locals are running the T-Force right now, fast right out of the box with the thicker chassis. It's a little on the heavy side, but that could be fixed. Weschester is pretty much my mentor on 1/12th and he's running one, PM him or I'll see if I can get him on this thread.

Dom
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Old 12-08-2004, 09:16 AM   #9635
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Quote:
Originally posted by litespeed-dom
3 locals are running the T-Force right now, fast right out of the box with the thicker chassis. It's a little on the heavy side, but that could be fixed. Weschester is pretty much my mentor on 1/12th and he's running one, PM him or I'll see if I can get him on this thread.

Dom
Sweet, T force sounds like it is good. I'll look into it alittle more.

thanks

Jon

PS: Does anyone have a good RC12L4 setup for carpet???Or where i can find one?

And i see a non-tweak piece on some of the t-bars on some of the kits? Where and what are the pros/cons for it?

Last edited by JDXray; 12-08-2004 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 12-08-2004, 10:37 AM   #9636
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Default T-Fource

Quote:
Originally posted by litespeed-dom
3 locals are running the T-Force right now, fast right out of the box with the thicker chassis. It's a little on the heavy side, but that could be fixed. Weschester is pretty much my mentor on 1/12th and he's running one, PM him or I'll see if I can get him on this thread.

Dom
I've had my T-Fource for about a month now. I've run it in 2 races and 2 practice days. I think I've made a very good choice in cars.

litespeed-dom is right, the car is heavy with the stiff chassis (It's thicker and less cut outs) out of the box. Mine was well over 30 ounces the first time I weighed it. After a diet, I have it down to 28.8 and still loosing. That's with big tires (1.92 rears and 1.80 fronts) and a standard weight body. I think I can get it down close to 28.4 in stock and a little heavier in Mod.

The kit is very well made with some very cool features. It has the lowered CRC rear pods, the newest Associated front end, innovative side spring suspension/tweeking, side dampining tubes, large D ring diff, usable kit tires and cool red colored metal parts.

It drives like a dream and responds very well to changes. I've had it turn in so hard it blew me away and got it to settle down to where anyone could drive it. I think the stiff chassis makes it much easier to tune than most other cars. There are just less varyables.

I do recommend the car and the support from CRC has been great.
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Old 12-08-2004, 10:50 AM   #9637
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I drive a 12L4 now after many happy years with the Speedmerchant Rev3-then the Rev4. The Rev cars are stupendous in high grip-thats no exxageration.

The L4 with 2.5mm BMI chassis is just the same everytime you put it on the track. MIne is -I guess I would say dialed right now and it hasnt changed in months-OK-I moved one caster shim before the Champs.. I think I did a 12.9 at Champs. TQ in STock and Masters was 12.7. Trust me those guys who did 12.7 can drive circles around me-so yes-its the car in this case.

The T-Force I built from a kit for a buddy who hadnt run pan cars in years-and never a 12th scale. First time on the track the T-force was great and he has hardly had to change the set-up on it too. Makes going to 12th scale a lot easier when youve got a killer car that carries speed and handles great-right out of the box.

I also sold to another local racer my RugRat. I didnt get along with that car-but with my set-up still on the car and a check over by CHicky-he also loves it and when we watch it-it carries insane corner speed.

So-whats my point? I have no idea-oh yes-with TLC and the right set-up-for your driving style-they all can rock.

I chose to switch from my beloved Rev.4 because I was chasing 12L3 at the time at my local track. Yup-thats me a follower-not a leader. They all ran the same set-up and all were fast. I was changing set-ups constantly and was still behind.

Ray
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Old 12-08-2004, 11:00 AM   #9638
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i picked up an 12l4 1 month ago and for my second race, was able to set TQ. This car worked every on the track and is box stock with a stock setup. need to work a little to get to track record, but they just change the track this week, so it is all a new for everyone.

This is my first 12th scale, so i would have to say that the 12l4 out of the box is not too shabby

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Old 12-08-2004, 11:04 AM   #9639
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Are the t-plate cars easier to drive or something. Seems like that is all you see anybody talk about. I picked up a 3.2R (first 1/12 car) and love it so far. I saw where CRC ran the 3.2R at the worlds and did well with it. What are the pros and cons of the two styles? Might have a T-Fource in the near future.
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Old 12-08-2004, 11:41 AM   #9640
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hi guys im just stillt rying to get used to the increased percision needed for twelth scale over tourers, and seem to keep flipping car on roadrail(a dome shaped track marking system) is there anyway to stop the fibreglass roll over mast from coming out? iv tryed gluing it into the mount several times .p.s im runin a 12l3
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Old 12-08-2004, 11:47 AM   #9641
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Doug: In my experience I thought the non t-bar car was easier to drive, I just have faster lap times with a t-bar car. I think it's mostly personnal preference and what you are faster with.

John_S: Sounds like you need to replace the mount. The antenna should be really hard to pull out after you push it in.

take care
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Old 12-08-2004, 01:23 PM   #9642
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I put CA on the antenna & let it dry.Then twist it into the hole.Works mint.
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Old 12-08-2004, 02:37 PM   #9643
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Default Equipment for 12th scale

What equipment items are needed for 12th scale? What's a good setup or tweak station? What do you guys do to prepare for a big race? Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-08-2004, 02:48 PM   #9644
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Default Re: Equipment for 12th scale

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
What equipment items are needed for 12th scale? What's a good setup or tweak station? What do you guys do to prepare for a big race? Thanks in advance.
equipment? you mean like electronics?
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Old 12-08-2004, 02:49 PM   #9645
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No like a good setup board for dialing the suspension.
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