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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-07-2004, 10:38 AM   #9616
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Quote:
Originally posted by VONEREFLEXR
Anyone used the Orion Revolution Motors here yet? just wondering what peoples opinions are on these, looking at the 9x2.
Yes, I just started playing with the V2. I've tried a 10x2 Peak Touring model and 11x2 Orion Mod. Both are great. I've had a little problem with run time but am getting the brush/spring combo figured out. Enduro Edge brush with a medium spring seems to be the best compromise with power and run time.
Don't remember the rollout I'm using right now, I can look it up tonight.

BTW, I'm racing on a 100'x36' indoor carpet.

take care
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Old 12-07-2004, 11:26 AM   #9617
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Quote:
Cut the appropriate length of tape first, run the tape up the end of the chassis up and loop it in front of the chassis brace, leave the front side of the tape underneath the chassis, put your batts in and tape it down with the end side of the tape that just looped thru the end of chassis, then pull the front side of tape thru the tape hole in front of the batts and up, tape the batts down.
i think i got that part figured out now. i was trying to do it with the batts already in.

Quote:
Yes, you'll need lube in the dampening disk. Some use stealth diff lube, some use thick shock oil, some use even thicker stuff like Trinity purple stuff or 50k wt oil.
ok so will just lube be enough, i mean ive got it all assembled like it says to but it just seems to move side to side alot easier than my switchblade with the damper tubes did
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Old 12-07-2004, 11:52 AM   #9618
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Default Damper disc lube me up

Side to side movement is a tuning option. So if your cars whicked twitchy in switchbacks or it feels like its dumping over entering long fast sweepers-you may want to run thicker lube on the plates.

if your car feels lazy in a very technical layout-you may run the thinnest lube you can or no lube.

Ray

Last edited by rayhuang; 12-07-2004 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 12-07-2004, 12:32 PM   #9619
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Old 12-07-2004, 12:36 PM   #9620
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Yes, I just started playing with the V2. I've tried a 10x2 Peak Touring model and 11x2 Orion Mod. Both are great. I've had a little problem with run time but am getting the brush/spring combo figured out. Enduro Edge brush with a medium spring seems to be the best compromise with power and run time.
Don't remember the rollout I'm using right now, I can look it up tonight.

BTW, I'm racing on a 100'x36' indoor carpet.

take care
john
Thanks I think I will be getting the Orion 9x2 Revo for my YRX12WE, should be good
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Old 12-07-2004, 12:49 PM   #9621
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Here's a really bad paint drawing of taping batteries. Gary Crowell posted a description of this awhile back. I've been doing it this way and it's really easy.

You make a semi permenant or reusable loop around the chassis (shown in red). Just wrap the tape around and stick it back to itself. Then each time you change the battery just put a new piece on top (green). It's quick and very secure as long as you make sure the batteries on down in the slots tight and the loop is pulled tight when you put the piece on top.

take care
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Old 12-07-2004, 12:57 PM   #9622
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that looks like a good idea, what kinda tape do you guys use? im using electrical tape right now cause thats all i have and i have alot of it
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Old 12-07-2004, 01:01 PM   #9623
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a thinner and longer red one in the pic and a longer one for the green in original width works well.
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Old 12-07-2004, 01:02 PM   #9624
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Straping tape. The kind with thread in it.
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Old 12-07-2004, 01:09 PM   #9625
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Default Buying an IRS Diff

I was wondering if anybody knew where (online) I could buy an IRS diff for my Speedmerchant V3?

My local shops don't have any.
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Old 12-07-2004, 01:11 PM   #9626
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Fibre or Fibreglass tape...
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Old 12-07-2004, 01:12 PM   #9627
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www.teamirsrc.com

www.kthobbies.com

come to mind first.
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Old 12-07-2004, 01:16 PM   #9628
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You can buy a 12 ball diff on speedmerchants website, that i think is cheaper than the IRS one, i am not 100% sure though. It is the diff that is included with the rev. 4.

KT hobbies has the team1rc tape that i have found to be the easiest to use and leaves no real resudie and holds in the batteries very well.

The speedmerchant tape has double the tensile strength, but its thinner so its harder to loop around and a plus and neg, it only sticks to itself, so if you need the tape to hold the battery in a certain position, then it wont work, but otherwise its really good and lasts forever (the roll is the same thickness as most other tapes, but since the tape is half the thickness its alot more tape!)
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Old 12-07-2004, 04:57 PM   #9629
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Storm - I was told that IRS makes the axle for the diff in the REV4. So if someone needs one, the IRS axle will fit into position very nicely. The IRS website is using retail prices so finding an axle or diff assembly at a reduced price at a hobby shop is possible. You just have to spend the time shopping around.
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Old 12-07-2004, 10:36 PM   #9630
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Guys, im running an lrp quantam sport, its rated for 14 turns or soemthing like that, but if im only running 4 cells shouldnt i be able to run lower turn motors?
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