R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-02-2004, 12:26 PM   #9556
Tech Addict
 
Tim Stamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Redford, Mi.
Posts: 591
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Jay Boyd
AE pros,when you guys run the Rockey City links are you spacing the top arm mounts out(closer to center) so you can have longer upper a-arms?What + effects does this mod have?
Thanks to Barry Baker for letting me take some pics of his rides.
Barry told me that Bud from BRP gave him those. I contacted Bud and he still has some in stock.

Tim
__________________
This space for rent
Tim Stamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2004, 12:36 PM   #9557
Tech Adept
 
Romac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 102
Default Motor setup

Hi Everyone,

Getting back into 1/12 from some time off and if this question has been answered before I apologize as I'm slowly working my way through this thread.

Anyways are people still overgearing and using cut brushes? are you still playing with the timing? and what winds of motors are most of you using in Mod class?

I'm trying to get the run time I need to compete again

Thanks.
Romac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2004, 01:28 PM   #9558
Tech Elite
 
Taz_S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Santa Rosa CA
Posts: 2,552
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
SLAPMASTER - 1/12th MS2.2
thanks
__________________
Jake's Performance Hobbies http://www.jphracing.com/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/757500284356171 Facebook Group for Pro 10
Taz_S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2004, 08:05 PM   #9559
Tech Elite
 
JDXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 2,802
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to JDXray
Default

anyone else see Franks 3.2 new front end?? Looks sweet and complicating at the same time....

What are the new features, pros and cons?
JDXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2004, 08:19 PM   #9560
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,460
Send a message via AIM to bigmo_rc10 Send a message via MSN to bigmo_rc10 Send a message via Yahoo to bigmo_rc10
Default

Original RC12L anybody interested $40
bigmo_rc10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2004, 08:28 PM   #9561
Company Representative
 
Tres's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: WWW.TNT-FX.COM
Posts: 3,403
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

JDXray: yes.....

Looks a little strange...
__________________
Tre's
TnT-Fx Custom Graphics
www.tnt-fx.com
Tres is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2004, 09:16 PM   #9562
Tech Master
 
Number 11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kenmore, WA
Posts: 1,377
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by bigmo_rc10
Original RC12L anybody interested $40
Now that's a bumper get out of my way buddy.
Number 11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2004, 12:22 PM   #9563
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: prince frederick, maryland
Posts: 23
Default trifecta racing

we will be having a new points series starting jan 2, 2005. and there are plenty of people how can help you here.
trifecta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2004, 02:17 PM   #9564
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 864
Default

JDXray - your question is pre-mature. None of the rest of us have had a chance to run it.
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2004, 02:34 PM   #9565
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
anyone else see Franks 3.2 new front end?? Looks sweet and complicating at the same time....

What are the new features, pros and cons?
Jon,

Well, just by looking at it, I'm thinking it'll be a lot heavier then the existing L3/L4 front end, so that's a con right there. As far as if that extra weight sacrifice is worth the performance, we'll have to wait and see. But nevertheless, props to Franky to invent something new!

dom
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2004, 07:18 PM   #9566
Tech Fanatic
 
primusblowsgoat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Pingree Grove, IL
Posts: 987
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to primusblowsgoat Send a message via Yahoo to primusblowsgoat
Default

why are green compound tires so much cheaper than say purple or whatever
__________________
Schumacher Racing
Schumacher Cat SX2
Schumacher Cougar SV
primusblowsgoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2004, 07:30 PM   #9567
Tech Elite
 
fatdoggy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD USA
Posts: 3,642
Default

Green is a medium compound that wears quickly.
fatdoggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2004, 08:39 PM   #9568
Tech Elite
 
JDXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 2,802
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to JDXray
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by litespeed-dom
Jon,

Well, just by looking at it, I'm thinking it'll be a lot heavier then the existing L3/L4 front end, so that's a con right there. As far as if that extra weight sacrifice is worth the performance, we'll have to wait and see. But nevertheless, props to Franky to invent something new!

dom
thanks dom,
wouldnt that front end be for more bumpier tracks? looks liek it can absorb alot of bumps etc. But looks like an interesting frontend.
JDXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2004, 08:59 PM   #9569
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,053
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default Re: Motor setup

Quote:
Originally posted by Romac
Hi Everyone,

Getting back into 1/12 from some time off and if this question has been answered before I apologize as I'm slowly working my way through this thread.

Anyways are people still overgearing and using cut brushes? are you still playing with the timing? and what winds of motors are most of you using in Mod class?

I'm trying to get the run time I need to compete again

Thanks.
The Team Br00d guys will normally run a Reedy Ti or Pt based mod motor with a 9x2 high varience type of wind. Usually 12 deg of timing works good on the reedy's. Reedy quasars full face, no cuts and green springs are always good. if you can't make runtime just gear up and dont pull full throttle as much. WE have been using the V2 teardowns with great success as well.

-Korey
__________________
Pro Spec America/Apex RC - Team ORCA - Awesomatix USA - Roche RC USA - AVID - Sweep - Protoform - Pro-One RC - Slapmaster Tools - Hebiki Design Works - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers - Timezone Hobbies
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2004, 01:02 AM   #9570
sac
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 332
Default take a look!!

Kawada will be releasing a new 1/12 car and it is a little different from your typical 1/12 "pan car" chassie's!!
It's CAN BE SWITCHED BETWEEN 2WD AND 4 WHEEL DRIVE AND IS CHAIN DRIVEN IN 4wd version.
check it out at www.kawadamodel.co.jp and click on Porsche 911 carrera 2/4 in the news box.
There U.S distributor www.kawadaracing.com is waiting on information now and will post it soon on the U.S site.for now go to the Kawada Japan home site for now (translater program like bablefish will help)
and while your there check out the infromation on the Sigma 2 coming out soon!!
sac
sac is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:38 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0