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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-29-2004, 10:03 PM   #9496
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Quote:
Originally posted by stumper1
Dom,

Actually, Brian figured out that they fit perfectly INSIDE the CRC tubes. What size spring do you use?
NO WAY!!! I didn't think about that!!! WOW!

Start with .020 first.

Dom
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Old 11-29-2004, 10:16 PM   #9497
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Default Best Batteries For 1/12 scale

1/10 scale on road racer looking to get info on what to look for when buying batteries for 1/12 road course racing.

Any tips would be great. Thanks

Was considering the fusion or surge batteries .
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Old 11-29-2004, 10:41 PM   #9498
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Battery! for serious racing look for FU matched.

I am not sure about elsewhere but in my city i buy some 3000 for fun racing, cheaper, perhaps because here everyone looks to gp3300 or sanyo3300hv so the shops wanna wipe out the old stock 3000!

that 300 difference doesnt matter to me! one crash at the end of the straight road or in the apex i lost the advantage for a 500 difference! and...i dun have to run 8 min anyone, i aint racing
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Old 11-30-2004, 07:09 AM   #9499
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Quote:
Originally posted by litespeed-dom
Ray,

Did you go with the hardcoated one? I only know IRS website sells the Silva stuff and not quite sure if they are carrying the latest Silva shock.

Besides IRS, where would I find the new Silva shock???

Dom

IRS has all the latest stuff from Silva Concepts. That includes the latest version of the shock.
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Old 11-30-2004, 07:13 AM   #9500
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Default Re: Damper tubes - springs or no springs?

Quote:
Originally posted by stumper1
What's the difference/benefits of running springs or no springs with tube cars?

Dom- How's the Monkey working for you?
I want to point out the IRS has plastic damper tubes that are designed to accept Wolf front suspension springs. These dampers are standard on the 1/12 RugRat. Check the IRS website for pricing and delivery.

http://www.teamirsrc.com/
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Old 11-30-2004, 08:36 AM   #9501
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Default Re: Best Batteries For 1/12 scale

Quote:
Originally posted by Hypnomagic
1/10 scale on road racer looking to get info on what to look for when buying batteries for 1/12 road course racing.

Any tips would be great. Thanks

Was considering the fusion or surge batteries .
You may also want to check out ProMatch batteries at www.promatchracing,com

They have the best warranty in the business.
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Old 11-30-2004, 08:51 AM   #9502
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by litespeed-dom
Ray,

Did you go with the hardcoated one? I only know IRS website sells the Silva stuff and not quite sure if they are carrying the latest Silva shock.

Besides IRS, where would I find the new Silva shock???

Dom
I talked to dave Irrgang and he said the hardcoated and the anodized both build up so smooth-so I actually went for the bling this time and got the blue one. You should be able to order it direct from IRS's website.

My buddy JOneser bought a black one, black cap and black knurled adjuster and is going to next buy the black lowered pod plate!!! Talk about one bad @$$ lookin 12th scale when hes done-all black!!!

Ray
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Old 11-30-2004, 09:05 AM   #9503
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Would anyone have the part number to the shock items that Ray is discussing? I would like to have my local hobby shop to order it in for me. Sounds like a killer deal.

Also has anyone used the lower arms for the assoc front end from IRS? I am looking to run the fronts down a little longer and those arms look like that they work well.

Jeff
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Old 11-30-2004, 09:15 AM   #9504
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Default Re: Re: Damper tubes - springs or no springs?

Quote:
Originally posted by davidl
I want to point out the IRS has plastic damper tubes that are designed to accept Wolf front suspension springs. These dampers are standard on the 1/12 RugRat. Check the IRS website for pricing and delivery.

http://www.teamirsrc.com/
Yeah, for some reason the IRS tubes don't work as good as the Bolink tubes.

Dom
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Old 11-30-2004, 09:16 AM   #9505
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
I talked to dave Irrgang and he said the hardcoated and the anodized both build up so smooth-so I actually went for the bling this time and got the blue one. You should be able to order it direct from IRS's website.

My buddy JOneser bought a black one, black cap and black knurled adjuster and is going to next buy the black lowered pod plate!!! Talk about one bad @$$ lookin 12th scale when hes done-all black!!!

Ray
Black lowered pods!?!?!? That is going to be sick with a matching black shock!

Dom
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Old 11-30-2004, 10:45 AM   #9506
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Werner
Would anyone have the part number to the shock items that Ray is discussing? I would like to have my local hobby shop to order it in for me.
Jeff
Just look on the IRS website: http://www.teamirsrc.com
jeez!
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Old 11-30-2004, 11:07 AM   #9507
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Let me give a better wording on the info I was asking about. I am interested in the new shock that was ran at the Cleveland race. I have been to the website. There are several different items listed and I was wanting to know which one Ray was talking about. I am new to 12th scale, not to racing or this website.

This site has many great people who share info all the time. Thanks for any info about which shocks on the website would be the correct ones.

Edited to keep from lowering to any non positive level....

Jeff

Last edited by Jeff Werner; 11-30-2004 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 11-30-2004, 11:29 AM   #9508
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HPS hard anodized shock SC130
HPS shock-black SC129
HPS shock end-black SC122
Shock adjustment nut-black IRS353BK

They only show Silver and Blue pod plates that I could find

OK?
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:17 PM   #9509
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Thanks for the information. I do thank you for your effort.


Smile it is all fun!

Jeff
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:36 PM   #9510
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Jeff,

Sorry-I threw the header card away. IRS also had new 0.030 thick shims to space up the arms for bigger tires too. NIce and thin for small adjustments.

I'd like to thank Bean for telling me about that shock.

Ray
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