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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-29-2004, 02:19 AM   #9466
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I tried both 48 and 64. 48p asks for 6 balls (small diff), 64p asks for 8 balls.

As to type of balls, really doesnt matter for starter to mid level racers, the majority of "feeling" you got from the diff is from the diff bearing. Change the diff bearing more frequently seems to be the best solution.

If you must, source for a diff hub that carries 2 diff bearings. I used to have one, and share a tab bit of side load resulting from crashing, but otherwise useless for side load originating only from the diff pressure ring. It was made by shooters (sometimes aka sFooters), as far as i have heard they have stopped production. So if you see any stock, consider getting one. It was a very sincere aftermarket parts producer, very accurate cutting, good materials, too bad that if they really stopped manufacturing.

There are other suggestions, like using a bigger diff, or sanding your diff ring so that you dun need a tight diff (and high side load). Personally, never tried these, so i would not comment. Sharing of genuine experience is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!
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Old 11-29-2004, 05:45 AM   #9467
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Hey, Im sure that many of you have heard about the US Pan Car Championships in San Antonio Texas next year. There will be 12th scale classes for both road course and oval offered. If you need to know information about these classes you can check out www.uspancarchamps.com/forums. It is the home of the race until the official site is up
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Old 11-29-2004, 06:28 AM   #9468
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC12L3a
I tried both 48 and 64. 48p asks for 6 balls (small diff), 64p asks for 8 balls.
I use Kimbrough gears almost exclusively... They allow BOTH diff configurations, as they have the circle of holes for the small ("stealth") diff rings and the outer ring of holes for the larger, 10th scale style rings...

I have cars with both style diffs, so I only have to carry one brand of gear as extra spurs for either car...
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Old 11-29-2004, 09:49 AM   #9469
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I'm a 1/12 newbie. Which are the hot bodies to use? I'd prefer ones available in thicker .030 lexan as I still use my body for a bumper more then I should.
Are foam "filler" bumpers (like used in sedans) a good idea?
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Old 11-29-2004, 10:24 AM   #9470
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Parma speed 8 is the best looking and handling bar none.
Get the regular no the light weight( like you thought ).
Trust me unless you don't hit boards the light weight will not last long.
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Old 11-29-2004, 10:38 AM   #9471
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Default Spur gears

I've really grown to like the Corally spur gears. We'll I'm not sure who makes them. I've bought them from CRC. I also bought one from Stormer Hobbies under the Corally name. I've been running the same 100 tooth gear for almost a year now and it's still like new. I've used on a L3 small ring diff and L4 or large ring diff.

take care
john
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Old 11-29-2004, 11:56 AM   #9472
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For you guys running T-bar cars... Look for Team Power Push to have new T-bars on his web site. I used the prototype at the Indoorchamps in stock and mod... They are .077 to .080 thick and have 2 tweek screw locations!!
Wayne
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Old 11-29-2004, 12:01 PM   #9473
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Default Re: Spur gears

Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
I've really grown to like the Corally spur gears. We'll I'm not sure who makes them. I've bought them from CRC. I also bought one from Stormer Hobbies under the Corally name. I've been running the same 100 tooth gear for almost a year now and it's still like new. I've used on a L3 small ring diff and L4 or large ring diff.

take care
john
They're Du-Mor gears.
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Old 11-29-2004, 12:11 PM   #9474
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Default Re: Re: Spur gears

Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
They're Du-Mor gears.
and they will take 8 balls for a small ring diff, much better than 6. On the other hand, there are only 8 holes on the outer ring too, Kimbrough spurs have 12.
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Old 11-29-2004, 12:23 PM   #9475
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Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
For you guys running T-bar cars... Look for Team Power Push to have new T-bars on his web site. I used the prototype at the Indoorchamps in stock and mod... They are .077 to .080 thick and have 2 tweek screw locations!!
Wayne
Wayne,

What is their website?

Dom
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Old 11-29-2004, 12:32 PM   #9476
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Default SPUR

I used to use PW Racing spurs which were a lot thinner and they are in that white delrin. However with the big D-ring, I had to switch to the Kimbrough spur to take advantage of the 12 diff balls vs the PW Racing 8 diff balls. I just wish the Kimbrough spur would be a bit thinner, but their dust cover works real well. I've not rebuilt my diff for 3 race days and 1 practice day and it's still pretty decent.

Dom
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Old 11-29-2004, 12:32 PM   #9477
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Are they the Du-Mor Star Force spurs?

Last edited by Jay Boyd; 11-29-2004 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 11-29-2004, 01:17 PM   #9478
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Dom...

teampowerpush.com

If it's not on there yet e-mail him about it!!

Wayne
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Old 11-29-2004, 01:35 PM   #9479
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Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
For you guys running T-bar cars... Look for Team Power Push to have new T-bars on his web site. I used the prototype at the Indoorchamps in stock and mod... They are .077 to .080 thick and have 2 tweek screw locations!!
Wayne
Hey-I didnt hear about them.....

sadly-a faster car would have just meant harder crashes!!!
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Old 11-29-2004, 03:55 PM   #9480
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Default spur gears

hey guys for those of you looking for light weight spur gear try PRS they are qulity gears machined so they run true and they are light weight for those of you running large diff rings order the oval gears and for small ring people run the touring gears i have been running theise spurs gears and pinions since snow birds last year and this is what they have done for me tq'ed and won the birds tq'ed the nats and won the indoor champs all with the same gear so they last a long time
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