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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-26-2004, 07:20 PM   #9436
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Default Re: noob need help

Quote:
Originally posted by FL1410
hi..i just bought a 12L4...it is my first 1/12...the instruction is useless....i want to ask how long the turnbuckle is suppose to be?....and the servo saver doesn't fit my Futaba S9602, no matter how hard i push...=.="...did i do something wrong?...thanks...
Is your servo a mini servo for 1/12th's? you need smaller servos for 1/12.

And turnbuckle size is how ever long you want it, you can make them and then adjust them to center them out or toe-in, toe-out etc.
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Old 11-26-2004, 07:55 PM   #9437
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Default Re: Re: noob need help

Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
Is your servo a mini servo for 1/12th's? you need smaller servos for 1/12.

And turnbuckle size is how ever long you want it, you can make them and then adjust them to center them out or toe-in, toe-out etc.
Ditto about the fact that you need a "mini" servo for your car.

I know you have the newer 12L4; however, the 12L3 manual had a full-sized drawing of its turnbuckle assembly to reference for the proper length sizing. All I had to do was match the real thing to the drawing to be within 99% of the final sizing I used. The dimension from center-of-cup to center-of-cup is given as 2.15" (54mm) for both sides. Hopefully, this sizing works for the 12L4 too (when you use the standard servo mount).

And I now use the 12L4 aluminum servo mounts on my 12L3 with virtually no affect on the turnbuckle lengths.
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Old 11-26-2004, 10:13 PM   #9438
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thanks for your help..it is ok now....i did some stupid mistakes.......
how do you measure toe in/toe out 1/12?...cause in 1/10 there is set up station to measure...
by the way...what tire u recommand to be use on carpet?
is traction compound nesscary in 1/12?...how do you use it?...
thx...
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Old 11-26-2004, 10:25 PM   #9439
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Tires - Purple or dbl.Pink on the ft and White/Gray(stock) or Pink(mod) in the rear.

Compound is necessary for quick lap times. Apply it to the full width of the rears and about 1/4 of the front to start with. Adjust the front compound application as needed.
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Old 11-26-2004, 10:27 PM   #9440
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Quote:
Originally posted by FL1410
thanks for your help..it is ok now....i did some stupid mistakes.......
how do you measure toe in/toe out 1/12?...cause in 1/10 there is set up station to measure...
by the way...what tire u recommand to be use on carpet?
is traction compound nesscary in 1/12?...how do you use it?...
thx...
Several of us have made some pretty interesting mistakes along the way. Keeps the forum interesting...

Go to www.teamassociated.com and find the Setup Sheets for the 12L4. These sheets even indicate where you should apply traction compound to front and rear tires. Certainly ask people at your track(s).

Not sure if you are running stock or mod motor. I am still happy with the challenge of stock so far.
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Old 11-27-2004, 12:03 AM   #9441
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Default Slapmaster MS2.2

Tomorrow will be my Slapmaster MS2.2 maiden race! Team Br00d driver Peter Robinson is currently running one in stock at Cleveland.

I don't have a scale, but it's LIGHT!

Enjoy,
Dom




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Old 11-27-2004, 12:39 AM   #9442
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Default Re: Slapmaster MS2.2

Quote:
Originally posted by litespeed-dom
Tomorrow will be my Slapmaster MS2.2 maiden race! Team Br00d driver Peter Robinson is currently running one in stock at Cleveland.

I don't have a scale, but it's LIGHT!

Enjoy,
Dom
Really like that bottom plate. Good luck with the race.

You might re-evaluate your battery wiring. I have easily 3-4" less wire on my 1/12th scale with the ESC on the other side of my 12L3. Basically, the ESC is on the same side as the motor and my crossover wire between the two paired cells goes from the inner most cells as opposed to the outer most cells. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-27-2004, 12:45 AM   #9443
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That is a sweet idea. Nice and simple. itll be interesting to see the durability of the lower front arms being part of the chassis. Good luck with the testing.
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Old 11-27-2004, 12:59 AM   #9444
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Default Re: Re: Slapmaster MS2.2

Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
Really like that bottom plate. Good luck with the race.

You might re-evaluate your battery wiring. I have easily 3-4" less wire on my 1/12th scale with the ESC on the other side of my 12L3. Basically, the ESC is on the same side as the motor and my crossover wire between the two paired cells goes from the inner most cells as opposed to the outer most cells. Hope this helps.
I thought about it, but I'd just spent the last 8 hours building the car and make sure every suspension part is perfect, plus resoldering 8 packs of batts..... I'm beat..... maybe one day I'll do the receiver/esc swap, but I'll just keep it the same layout I had from my Hyperdrive for now.

Now, it's midnight....I still have to go thru my sedan and pack!

Dom
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Old 11-27-2004, 01:01 AM   #9445
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Quote:
Originally posted by Speedie
That is a sweet idea. Nice and simple. itll be interesting to see the durability of the lower front arms being part of the chassis. Good luck with the testing.
Well, that was my main concern at the beginning. But Brian has crash tested the front arms for the past year and he races mod and so far, no broken front arms.

Dom
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Old 11-27-2004, 01:07 AM   #9446
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Understood. Otherwise, my battery configuration had to also work on my Novak Smart Tray.

Good luck tomorrow!
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Old 11-27-2004, 08:54 AM   #9447
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Default Extended pod plates

My LHS has a set in stock,the gpm's.Figured I'd ask if anyone has any thoughts on these for my 12L.Pro's/con's? Wonering if the extra wheelbase will help or hinder stability.Anyone?Thanks,Mario.
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Old 11-27-2004, 09:26 PM   #9448
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Default to all rc12l3 owners!

its a pain in the @$& to tape the battery down. whats the easiest way to do this? also, where can i find 64p spurs for my L3?
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Old 11-27-2004, 10:01 PM   #9449
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i am currently using 48pitch 75 spur and 24 pinion. i wanna switch to 64 pitch, what is the equivalent?
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Old 11-27-2004, 11:07 PM   #9450
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Default Re: to all rc12l3 owners!

The best way I know is to measure a strip that is just about as long as the car, and cut it off. On one end, the "leading end" fold the tape over on to itself (about 1/2 inch) Take this end go down through the chassis, until about enough tape is left at the trailing end to cover 2 cells, continue around the bottom of the chassis, come back up loosely. Leave a bit there at the that corner, now put in the battery and hold in it in and position where you want it. Tape the first two cells down with the trailing edge of the tape, now unstick the tape that is on the bottom of the chassis and pull it really tight, toward the leading edge end of the tape, now un stick the tape that is stuck to the battery near the leading edge and pull the tape TIGHT! You should have just enough tape to make it back to the 2ed cell you taped in with the trailing edge of the tape, cut it off if you have too much you do not want it to start to go back down again. Now if you hits lots of things, repeat for a second strip of tape. Make sure you are using some good strapping tape. I like the ~1/2 inch wide black stuff. Not sure who makes it, but it sure is sticky and very strong. It is much better than just plain old strapping tape from the hardware store.

Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
its a pain in the @$& to tape the battery down. whats the easiest way to do this? also, where can i find 64p spurs for my L3?
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