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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-12-2002, 06:42 AM   #931
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Newracer- Slayer has the order of parts correct. I also suggest the following: 1) sand the d rings with either 400 or 600 paper and clean. I do this with a little oil on wet/dry paper. Make sure that the ring is flat in the area the balls will ride. 2) always use new diff balls when rebuilding. 3) the outside bearing needs replaced regularly because crashing tends to wear them prematurely. I run at least 3 bellville washers to make it easier to control the force on the balls between the d rings. If you are running modified, I would consider IRS' newest differential for 1/12 that uses the outside ring on ball positions on the gear. That way you have more balls in place to handle the torque of the motor without slipping. Each time the diff slips, the suface of the balls gets flat spotted and gives you a gritty feeling. This is not good for a ball diff. Good luck!
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Old 05-12-2002, 11:12 AM   #932
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that's my problem then, I don't have any belleville washers at all!

thanks for the help, the only diffs I have experience with are TC's and Tamiya F1's

anybody know what axles have the threaded portion on both sides and the D ring hub? I was thinking of ordering a fiber-lite one from CRC.

BTW Dragon Slayer, I have another used carpet knife that I am looking to sell.
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Old 05-12-2002, 05:19 PM   #933
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Newracer.....already have a Knife on the way....thanks anyway.

Anybody get to race this weekend???How'd it go????
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Old 05-13-2002, 05:37 AM   #934
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IRS supplies all pan car axles to CRC. You can email IRS at
irsaxles@aol.com
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Old 05-13-2002, 08:50 PM   #935
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Does any one have any good ideas( for a new to 12th scale guy)On what 12th kits are good.Good as in parts avail,durability,bla,bla,bla.our track here in Memphis is outside on med bite asphalt.The track is kinda small(compared to others).Dragon Slayer you know how it is.Bigdog ain't giving out any secrets.Help me out!Point me in the right direction.Allso is Trinity still making or selling the switchblade?And is it any good?
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Old 05-13-2002, 09:43 PM   #936
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Darnold,

Hey man, how's things? I can't really give you a good answer about how fast my car was, I only got in one lap. It did feel pretty strong, though. I haven't touched it since two weeks ago Saturday. No 1/12 scale cars to be found. Petenis did run through a few packs last Saturday and liked the changes you suggested he make. I have been running my taxi, and am doing fairly well. I have been consistently in the top two spots, and am only 4 points out of first place. I can't go this weekend, though. My motor goes in for it's Dyno sessions and he( my builder ) holds an open house every year. Lots of burgers, fast cars, bench racing, and catching up with friends we only see once a year. Kind of a tradition( I have been going since I was about 6 or 7.). I will give the cell deal a try. I have heard that it is whacked, though, since there is zero volts across it. Keeping my fingers crossed, though.

Have fun gettin' your golf on( sorry, man, I had to!).

Talk to ya later,
Dave S

P.S. when is a good time to call?
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Old 05-14-2002, 11:02 AM   #937
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Littledog- IMHO if you are ONLY going to race outdoors then get either a 12L3 or CRC Six Pack. They have thinner chassis plates which flex more than some of the other cars thus giving them more overall grip. By the same right some of the other cars such as the new Trinity 2002 Switchblade and Speed Merchant car with their thicker chassis plates flex less helping their corner speed on higher bite surfaces such as carpet. In either case this can be countered by the other cars it just takes a little more work and know-how, ie. Associated may still sell the LC chassis plate which is thicker than the 12L3 one and using bigger rear tires can help give the other cars more rear grip. IMHO the best carpet car is the new Trinity Spashett 2002 edition although every other car out there is truly capable of winning so it comes down to what you feel most comfortable with and what's available.

DaveS- call cell anytime, I'm usually up until 1am or so and we're in the same time zone (central) since I live in Illinois.
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Old 05-15-2002, 08:51 AM   #938
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Checking out on Orion's site today, I was looking at the pic of Masami's 12th scale. Now being a 12th scale newbie (ie. i have a very hacked 2nd hand 12l3), the parts on that car look quite a bit different than mine. Can anyone make out what aftermarket parts it appears Masami is using? I guess I am assuming its a 12l3, but of course thats just an assumption and I am probably wrong
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Old 05-15-2002, 10:22 AM   #939
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The chassis pieces are actually Yokomo's with Associated pieces thrown in to complete the car.
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Old 05-16-2002, 07:18 AM   #940
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Guys - don't sell the Speedmerchant REV3 short on the pavement. Eric Derosiers won a ROAR national championship with one on the pavement at Ripon in 2000.
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Old 05-16-2002, 11:27 PM   #941
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another axle question....my left hub only has a small set screw to hold it on the axle is this normal

the reason I ask is that the hub is also threaded like it is supposed to fit the associated axle
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Old 05-17-2002, 09:59 AM   #942
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Newracer....you got me on that one?????the set screw is(the old way)it'll work, i have one myself,but the clamp style hubs kick a$$.
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Old 05-17-2002, 03:11 PM   #943
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how's the balance of the clamping hub? do you think it is better than associated's way with the threaded ends on both left and right? I don't know which axle to use. I have an associated graphite axle and a IRS. I like the IRS because it has the "D" diff rings but the associated seems good because of the threaded left end (easier to adjust the endplay) but no "D" diff rings. Maybe I'll just get the clamping hub.
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Old 05-17-2002, 04:45 PM   #944
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Newracer....the hub with the set screw will eventually become harder to adjust(side to side)because the set screw will walk a little, plus, i imagine the place on the axle where you slot it for the set screw weakens the axle.....
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Old 05-17-2002, 04:47 PM   #945
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Quote:
Originally posted by newracer
how's the balance of the clamping hub? do you think it is better than associated's way with the threaded ends on both left and right? I don't know which axle to use. I have an associated graphite axle and a IRS. I like the IRS because it has the "D" diff rings but the associated seems good because of the threaded left end (easier to adjust the endplay) but no "D" diff rings. Maybe I'll just get the clamping hub.
go with the d rings and the clamping hub i like it better then what AE did with the L3
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