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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-25-2004, 08:41 PM   #9421
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Quote:
Originally posted by 429racer
As you pick up the front end of the car in the center, if the coin on the left tire drops then you tighten the right rear for a spring car.
okay thanks.

Jon
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Old 11-25-2004, 10:12 PM   #9422
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Default Re: Re: tweeked

Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
thanks OD

So you tighten the SAME side as the wheels that lets the coin drop first?
you know, I should have asked what kind of car you are running. T-bar cars and "spring" cars are opposite. Same side for t-bar cars, opposite for spring cars. And I was talking about lifting the car from the front-as in the coin drop method.

Last edited by odpurple; 11-25-2004 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 11-25-2004, 10:17 PM   #9423
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Default Re: Re: tweeked

Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
I have watched a couple experts at Stockton utilize the 2 quarter method. For the first side that drops the quarter (because it is the first to raise), you initially loosen (back off) the screw on the other side and then tighten the screw an equal amount on the same side that raised first. This way you don't excessively over tighten the screws against the bottom plate. The experts also suggest adjusting a maximum of 1/8 turn at a time before rechecking.

Seems to work well for me.
100% correct Bill, I've done this so many millions of times I forgot to mention doing an equal adjustment on the opposite side. On a t-bar car you will stress the t-bar if you don't, and on a spring car you'll change the preload if you don't.
O'D
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Old 11-25-2004, 10:25 PM   #9424
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So, that's one for the East Bay.

I think you guys are still winning though...about 94101 to 1.
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
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Old 11-25-2004, 10:30 PM   #9425
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Smile

Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
So, that's one for the East Bay.

I think you guys are still winning though...about 94101 to 1.
thanks but I won't be winnin nothin untill I can start racing again
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Old 11-26-2004, 06:25 AM   #9426
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OD- I am using CRC 3.2 and Associated L4.

Jon
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Old 11-26-2004, 11:17 AM   #9427
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
OD- I am using CRC 3.2 and Associated L4.

Jon
OK so you have one of each type. On the t-bar car you tighten the tweek screw on the side that comes up first; and on the opposite side on the CK.
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Old 11-26-2004, 01:53 PM   #9428
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
OK so you have one of each type. On the t-bar car you tighten the tweek screw on the side that comes up first; and on the opposite side on the CK.
Okay iwas just making sure thanks again

Jon
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Old 11-26-2004, 02:12 PM   #9429
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Something else to be careful of on a T-bar is don't tighten the screws to much. It will put to much pressure on the the bar or digs holes in the chassis.

When you assemble it, tighten each screw a little at a time. Wiggle the Tbar and watch where the screws touch the chassis. If they move (which they should to start with) tighten a little more (like less than 1/8 turn each time). When you see the screws stop coming off the chassis, STOP.
Now when you set your tweak, loosen one side, then tighten the other the same amount. Now you have the perfect pressure at all times.

take care
john
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Old 11-26-2004, 02:19 PM   #9430
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Something else to be careful of on a T-bar is don't tighten the screws to much. It will put to much pressure on the the bar or digs holes in the chassis.

When you assemble it, tighten each screw a little at a time. Wiggle the Tbar and watch where the screws touch the chassis. If they move (which they should to start with) tighten a little more (like less than 1/8 turn each time). When you see the screws stop coming off the chassis, STOP.
Now when you set your tweak, loosen one side, then tighten the other the same amount. Now you have the perfect pressure at all times.

take care
john
Thanks John.
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Old 11-26-2004, 03:48 PM   #9431
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You welcome. Hope that makes sense, kinda hard to put in words. The bottom line you don't want pressure pushing up and you don't the T-bar to rock freely. A fine line, but worth getting right.

take care
john
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Old 11-26-2004, 04:05 PM   #9432
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
You welcome. Hope that makes sense, kinda hard to put in words. The bottom line you don't want pressure pushing up and you don't the T-bar to rock freely. A fine line, but worth getting right.

take care
john
Ya i got it i think, just dont want to put the screws into the chassis.
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Old 11-26-2004, 04:49 PM   #9433
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Default tweak screws

when i built my 12th scale that used the tweak screws in the t-bar, I just glued break away xacto knife blades to the chassis. In this way, you will never grove the graphite chassis.
I have also seen people use strips of thin brass, but anything like that will do.
My 2 cents

Last edited by rcdave905; 11-26-2004 at 05:50 PM.
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Old 11-26-2004, 05:30 PM   #9434
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I used battery bars without the ends on them
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Old 11-26-2004, 06:19 PM   #9435
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noob need help

hi..i just bought a 12L4...it is my first 1/12...the instruction is useless....i want to ask how long the turnbuckle is suppose to be?....and the servo saver doesn't fit my Futaba S9602, no matter how hard i push...=.="...did i do something wrong?...thanks...
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