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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-23-2004, 08:39 PM   #9376
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Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
Airtronics 94145 micro. It is perfect!


some people had recentering problems. how long have u been using urs?
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Old 11-23-2004, 08:39 PM   #9377
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Default Re: C12

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
I just ordered one. It should be arriving Friday. Guess what I'm doing on Saturday!?
Sweet its a cool lookin car and it goes togather well but if you got the old batch of kits be sure to buy the solid bumper.
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Old 11-23-2004, 08:42 PM   #9378
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Default Re: 1/12th scale is the Formula One of RC

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
If you switch to 1/12th scale you'll never go back to TC!!!
I agree drove my TC last week and hated it. Bought a second 12th scale to run one stock and one modified.

Last edited by Number 11; 11-23-2004 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 11-23-2004, 08:45 PM   #9379
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Where can I see pics of the C12 car?
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Old 11-23-2004, 08:45 PM   #9380
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Alright, I just recieved my L3 a week ago, and just tonight i picked up the .075 t plate, a few springs for the center shock, a few springs for the front end, and tires. I have a few tuning questions that werent explained in the l3 manual. I read about what the center shock does over in the 10th scale thread( pro 10), and i was wondering does it have the same function on a 1/12 scale? Also, on the shock, there is a plastic nut that threads on, but I do not know what this does? What does threading the nut on farther up the shock body do compared to when the plastic nut is not thread on very far (near the bottom)? And one last question, what type of greases should be used on the front suspension pin? Do any company's sell specific greases for this part? And what about the dampening disks? What does using different grease affect, and I also didnt notice this in the manual, are different springs avalible for the dampening disk? and if so, what does the affect have if you soften it, or stiffen it?

Thanks
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Old 11-23-2004, 08:49 PM   #9381
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Default C12

Quote:
Originally posted by JJ187RC
Where can I see pics of the C12 car?
http://www.cefx.net/
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Old 11-23-2004, 09:04 PM   #9382
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Quote:
Originally posted by JJ187RC
Now my next question. What are the pros and cons of the old school front end?
Pro's:
Put it together and run, no setting castor and camber.
Good for Stock

Con's:
Blocks inconsistant in molding most of the time. Initial hand fitting necessary to achieve proper camber settings. Reactive castor front end faster.
Not good for mod.

Tim
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Old 11-23-2004, 09:05 PM   #9383
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Switch Blade: the center shock determines amount and a little speed of weight transfer. The nut on the center shock controls the sag of the chassis and rear pod (and droop). Most of the time you want the chassis and the rear pod level. Now for the dampening the thicker the grease/oil you put on the slower the side to side (and a little forward) weight transfer will be as vice versa for thinner grease/oil. Most f the time people use Associated green slime or Trinity White Stuff on the front king pins. I believe there are a few differnet springs for the dampening post but I just use the standard factory ones provided. Hope this helps!
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Old 11-23-2004, 09:13 PM   #9384
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why would u wanna use a receiver pack for the servo besides having more speed and torque? why not use a better one thats rated at 4.8v? dont the pack add so much weight to the car? whos using receiver packs here?
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Old 11-23-2004, 09:22 PM   #9385
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Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
why would u wanna use a receiver pack for the servo besides having more speed and torque? why not use a better one thats rated at 4.8v? dont the pack add so much weight to the car? whos using receiver packs here?
The use of a receiver pack is so that your using every little bit of run time your battery has to power that motor up with out taking run time away from your batteries (basically when running mod). Another reason is that when the power of your batteries go down so does your servo performance and knowing that it will perform better at a higher voltage is a plus. Last one, weight in some of the chassis now adays is not a very big concern when you have to add weight to your car already.
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Old 11-23-2004, 09:23 PM   #9386
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Default qc/2 worlds capacitor

Who here runs the qc/qc2, and will the cap help or hinder performance in 4 cell racing?
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Old 11-23-2004, 09:29 PM   #9387
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Default Want to buy my first 1/12

Ok Guys I want to go and buy a 1/12 scale for this weekend. And race it for the winter. I race Touring car at the moment and i think i will like 1/12 also.

Im a good driver but not so good at dialing in a car. Im looking i dont care about price I just want to get a good car that will be easy for me to adjust.

If you guys can give me top 2 or 3 picks it would be great thanks.
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Old 11-23-2004, 09:50 PM   #9388
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Default Re: Want to buy my first 1/12

Quote:
Originally posted by Hypnomagic
If you guys can give me top 2 or 3 picks it would be great thanks.
One thought is to go to your local track and see what others are running. That way you get ready help in setting up the car.

About a month ago, I went with a 5-6 race old (carpet only) Associated 12L3 rolling chassis with ceramic bearings for $100. That got my feet wet without a major investment in the chassis; however, I went first class on all the electronics.

Since then, I bought a second 12L3 that included an IRS big diff for only $80. This should give you a price range on such cars.

I think the class is great. Driving 1/12th scale has helped me improve my overall driving. The speed these cars carry through the corners is significantly more than my TC cars. Racing for 8 minutes is cool too.
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Last edited by JRX-S Bill; 11-23-2004 at 09:55 PM.
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Old 11-23-2004, 09:50 PM   #9389
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Default Re: Want to buy my first 1/12

Quote:
Originally posted by Hypnomagic
Ok Guys I want to go and buy a 1/12 scale for this weekend. And race it for the winter. I race Touring car at the moment and i think i will like 1/12 also.

Im a good driver but not so good at dialing in a car. Im looking i dont care about price I just want to get a good car that will be easy for me to adjust.

If you guys can give me top 2 or 3 picks it would be great thanks.


Well, there are many cars out on the market. One is the associated 12L4, then the C12 by Josh Cyurl, and Speedmerchant cars and a few types of CRC's.......Those are the kits you can buy.

There are many other cars that you can get but these are mostly conversions. The IRS rug rat, the PRC Quad 12, and a few others to name a couple. I have a rug rat and I race on asphalt and I love it. There are many here on the forum that like the Quad 12 which is nice. Hope I've put you in the right direction.
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Old 11-24-2004, 07:24 AM   #9390
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a little comparation:

Car1:

Sanwa 141 Servo
Sanwa fm receiver 2 channel
GM v12 old version speedo
Yokomo 9t machine wound
GP3300 unmatched

Car2:

Futaba top liner servo
Lrp micro receiver
LRP Q2 speedo
Reedy 9t hand wound
GP3300 matched

what do you think about the differences? in terms of costs and performance
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