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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-21-2004, 06:57 PM   #9316
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Thanks for the quick answers guys

My dad has a CK 3.1 but is passing it down to me because he just got a really good deal on a Bloody Knife about 15 minutes after I posted that.

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
It comes with a useable diff (big ring)
BTW: My dad has like 3 IRS Big-Ring diffs for that reason
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Old 11-21-2004, 07:21 PM   #9317
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Thanks all! I got to try some things at the local track today with my 12L4. Definately improvement!

However my car seems a bit tippy in the rear still. Any suggestions on goop or stuff I should put on the dampening plates? Also how much should I usually apply.

Thanks
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Old 11-21-2004, 07:59 PM   #9318
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Has anyone had problems with the center shock on their 1/12th popping apart? I've rebuilt it three times and still coming apart. No hitting boards or anything like that yet 2-3 laps into a heat the shock comes apart. I owned a couple of 1/12's and never had this happen before. Any suggestion are welcome.
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Old 11-21-2004, 08:16 PM   #9319
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jamie Corrado
Has anyone had problems with the center shock on their 1/12th popping apart? I've rebuilt it three times and still coming apart. No hitting boards or anything like that yet 2-3 laps into a heat the shock comes apart. I owned a couple of 1/12's and never had this happen before. Any suggestion are welcome.
You might want to try a Silva shock. They screw together and don't pop apart like the stock L3 shock can.

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Old 11-21-2004, 08:20 PM   #9320
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Any website address for this silva shock, I am willing to try anything, it is becoming quite frustrating.
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Old 11-21-2004, 08:23 PM   #9321
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jamie Corrado
Has anyone had problems with the center shock on their 1/12th popping apart? I've rebuilt it three times and still coming apart. No hitting boards or anything like that yet 2-3 laps into a heat the shock comes apart. I owned a couple of 1/12's and never had this happen before. Any suggestion are welcome.
The Silva shock is great but you can fix the Associated shock you have by using a new retaining clip
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Old 11-21-2004, 08:49 PM   #9322
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Jamie - As ted said replace the star retaining clip and it shouldn't pop appart any more. A friend of mine had that exact same problem this weekend.
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Old 11-21-2004, 08:51 PM   #9323
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http://www.teamirsrc.com/ carries Silva parts.

If the shock is too short (no droop) it will pull the shock apart when the shock flexes in the long direction. The clip is a one use only item.
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Old 11-21-2004, 09:08 PM   #9324
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Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
JRX-S Bill - Good luck in 12th scale.
Fatdoggy,

You would be proud of me. A few months ago, I couldn't drive a 1/12th scale car or a one-way on my XXX-S.

After maybe 20 laps of settling into a recently purchased 12L3 roller, I TQed in 1/12th Stock and won my first race going away. Next race had both more and higher level drivers; but, I won again...barely.

Dream story heh; but, now that everyone has wised up to me...I haven't won in the last 4-5 races.

Tore the 12L3 down this weekend and found a couple issues to correct. Also purchased a second 12L3 roller chassis with the IRS big ring diff. Should be way mo better this week...he, he...

And the local 1/12th scale drivers are waaaaaaay helpful too.

FYI...Formerly "XXX-S Bill".

Happy Thanksgiving.
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Old 11-21-2004, 09:48 PM   #9325
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JRX-S Bill - Yes I figured you were XXX-S Bill, shane gave you the hook-up. You won your first race in 12th scale, dam, well done mate. Sound like your off to a great start in 12th scale. Get as much info from the local races as you can and then beat them with that same information.

Happy thanksgiving,

p.s. - Here's some setup info posted by mike dunnigan a few days ago. V

Quote:
Originally posted by Mike D
Doc - I'm using the Silva medium spring steel t-bar in stock and the medium-stiff in modified. The spring steel t-bars aren't hands down faster then fiberglass t-bars on the track but they are way more consistent and adjustable. I generally have my roll center lowered 0.020" to 0.040" with 0.010" rake.

The spring steel t-bars are about 0.030" thick and make it much easier to adjust roll center. The spring steel also has much lower flexural dampening. Since there is less dampening built into the material, you have a wider range of adjustment in the damper tubes and center shock.

Adding spacers under the front t-bar ball is called rake. The more spacers added puts more rake in the t-bar. T-bar rake generally will make the car turn more aggressive into the turn. The general adjustment range is raising the front pivot ball between 0.010" and 0.030".

Rear roll center makes a huge difference in handling. Raising the roll center would be adding spacers under the t-bar pivot balls. Lowering the roll center requires cutting down the t-bar pivot ball where it mounts to the chassis. Most of the time it comes down to trial and error to find out what feels the best on the track. Roll center adjustments can react differently on low and high traction tracks. Lower rear roll centers help the chassis stay flatter. Low roll centers help the car rotate in low-medium bite conditions, but will increase rear traction in medium-high bite conditions. If your car picks up its inside rear wheel (diffs out) when entering the turn, a lower rear roll center will usually fix the problem. T-bar rear pod spacers need to be adjusted to keep the chassis level with the rear pod. Roll center adjustments range from raising 0.020" to lowering 0.040".

Rear side-to-side dampening changes how the car enters and exits the turn. Increased side-to-side dampening will add rear traction on corner entry and decrease rear traction on corner exit. Decreased rear side-to-side dampening will decrease rear traction on corner entry and increase rear traction on corner exit.

Center shock dampening changes all around rear traction. Increased dampening adds rear traction and decreased dampening reduces rear traction.

The rear shock spring also changes overall rear traction. Softer center springs will help increase on-power traction and smooth the car out on corner entry and over the bumps. Stiffer center springs free the rear end up and help the car rotate on and off-power.
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Old 11-21-2004, 09:59 PM   #9326
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fatdoggy,

Gonna take me a bit of time to absorb and understand all that. Many thanks.
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Old 11-21-2004, 10:14 PM   #9327
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Bill, Where are you racing?
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Old 11-21-2004, 11:11 PM   #9328
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Thanks Fat Doggy.

The tips by Dunnigan make a lot of sense. Just so I make 100% sure, when he mentions lowering the roll center for a 1/12th car, you just shave the pivot balls under the t-bar lowering the t bar on the car? So you do the sanding evenly front to back then? What does he mean reshiming the rear pod spacers? How do I know if I have this right?


The other question I have is if I put a spacer in the front of the t-bar to cause more front rake then it would make more agressive steering causing my current traction problem to be worse.


Thanks to all! I am sure i will learn a lot this week at Cleveland!
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Old 11-21-2004, 11:39 PM   #9329
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TheZoof - If your having trouble getting your car hooked up at cleveland, look for Mike Lufaso(12th mod) and ask for some help. He's a factory AE guy that runs at my local track (got 5th at the worlds in 12th) and should be cool with helping you get your L4 setup properly. Provided you don't ask him when he's busy that is.

"you just shave the pivot balls under the t-bar lowering the t bar on the car?"
"So you do the sanding evenly front to back then?"

Yes for both, or at least that's what I took from it as well.

With the rear pod you want it to be flat with the chassis, when you cut down the pivot balls the spacers between the T-plate and the bottom pod plate will have to be sanded the same amount that the pivot balls are cut down, so that the pod and the chassis are still flush. If they are not flush you'll never be able to get your ride height the same between the rear pod and the chassis. Your setup problem could be any number of things.
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Old 11-21-2004, 11:54 PM   #9330
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Cool! I will definately ask Mike for help if I see him. I am a bit shy at big races though! I do not want to bug anyone that is busy, like you said! He actually was in the room next to me last year, and I did talk to him a bit! However I didn't race 1/12th last year. hehe


Ok I will have to look at the car for that spacer thing. I don't think I have to shave the spacers, I think he means add more spacers the amount that you shaved from pivot balls.

I will see how it goes though. I might first try rounding the edges of my front tires more, see if that fixes the "grab" problem I am having causing the traction roll. Roll center is a good idea though I have been doing that on my pro4...

These tips are awesome... Anything else people suggest?

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