R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-21-2004, 11:08 AM   #9301
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default Re: body ?

Quote:
Originally posted by eklips
which body do u prefer?
proto spd 12 or parma spd 12.

thanks
Parma Spd 8 is my choice. Comes in lightweight and heavy versions.
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2004, 11:16 AM   #9302
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default front axles

Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
I have a 12L3 with the standard front axles and e-clips.

Some say to upgrade to threaded ti axles while others say to stick with what I have. Any comments?
The e-clip front axles stick out a little less and so you have less chance of catching a board. But for my money the ti axles are much easier to use. They are lighter and stronger than steel and make spacing the wheels easier.

Also the barriers at Stockton aren't as "grabby" as board tracks.

The ti axles thread into the steering blocks (left hand thread) but don't make them tight or they will distort the steering block. Just screw them in untill the flange touches the block and install the lock nut (not too tight either). If you are using the old style front end the locknut will hit the suspension arm. You can trim the arm where it hits or what I do is cut off the lock nut stub and glue the left hand threads to lock the axle in place.
O'D
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2004, 11:18 AM   #9303
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Who makes the threaded ti axles?
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2004, 11:42 AM   #9304
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
Who makes the threaded ti axles?
Lunsford, Parma, CRC and some others. I think they are all the same parts, though. Tower has them or you can order direct from Lunsford.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2004, 11:45 AM   #9305
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Go with the Lunsford ones. They are different then the CRC. You can actually break the CRC axles, they are quite a bit softer.

Dom
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2004, 11:49 AM   #9306
Tech Elite
 
fatdoggy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD USA
Posts: 3,642
Default

If you file the ridge off the arm the threaded axle nuts will fit fine. I doubt it reduces the durability of the arm and with the nut still in place, the axle will be held in place secuerly.
fatdoggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2004, 12:04 PM   #9307
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Thanks guys.

Nice to hear from Fatdoggy too. Been awhile.
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2004, 12:13 PM   #9308
Tech Master
 
BlackKat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Northside San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,335
Default

Hey Bill!

I hear your doing some 12th scaling this winter.

When they start racing Sundays again at HW I'll be racing. I can only afford one class so I'm probably gonna do TC for a while but if a 12th Scale Stock class starts up I might bust out my dad's back-up.
BlackKat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2004, 12:14 PM   #9309
Tech Elite
 
fatdoggy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD USA
Posts: 3,642
Default

JRX-S Bill - Good luck in 12th scale.
fatdoggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2004, 01:39 PM   #9310
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default the nut is overkill

Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
If you file the ridge off the arm the threaded axle nuts will fit fine. I doubt it reduces the durability of the arm and with the nut still in place, the axle will be held in place secuerly.
Actually, I was talking about the old style front end, where you have to remove a significant amount of the vertical part on the suspension arm. Removing the little spine that gets in the way on the new style arms certainly does less to weaken the arm. I've been running Lunsford axles with the 4/40 stud cut off and the left hand thread glued into the steering block on both new and old front ends for over a season of racing (40+ races) and never had anything get loose or even move. When you remove material from the suspension arm you are taking it off of the plane where the arms break; it must weaken them to some degree (even though I've never broken an arm doing that either). My point is that the axle is secure without the locking nut.
O'D
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2004, 03:24 PM   #9311
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: SCS Michigan
Posts: 332
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Tim Stamper
Tony,

If you're gonna be at Larry's, run 1.5 degrees. If you are at the RcScrewz track, run 1 degree. If you are at Halo, I had good luck with 2 degrees. When you set the camber, only give about a quarter of a turn of pre-load on the flex plate adjustment screw after it touches the arm. I also run the screw in the outer hole on the plate for stock and in the middle for mod.

Tim
Thank you Tim and good luck at Cleveland.
Tony Szep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2004, 05:34 PM   #9312
Tech Master
 
BlackKat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Northside San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,335
Default

Hey,

My dad runs a Carpet Knife 3.1 and wants a new 3.2R

What are the differences & how are these differences better?

Is it really worth $220+ because his knife already has enough hop-ups (one piece rear pod, lowered servo, ti-turnbuckles...etc)
BlackKat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2004, 06:34 PM   #9313
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default CK 3.2R

The biggest difference that I can see is that the car is a little narrower. This improves the handeling because the chassis hits the track less in the corners. It comes with a useable diff (big ring) and has some trick new o-ring posts.

The car is worth the price because it is a very complete kit and comes with useable tires (if they are not too crooked). Personally, I think the Rev 4 will be a more effective car as the new design makes the car much narrower that the CK.
O'D
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2004, 06:48 PM   #9314
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Posts: 894
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default Re: CK 3.2R

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
The biggest difference that I can see is that the car is a little narrower. This improves the handeling because the chassis hits the track less in the corners. It comes with a useable diff (big ring) and has some trick new o-ring posts.

The car is worth the price because it is a very complete kit and comes with useable tires (if they are not too crooked). Personally, I think the Rev 4 will be a more effective car as the new design makes the car much narrower that the CK.
O'D
The chassis is thicker (I think like 2.5 mm), it has the new dynamic front suspension, I think the rear body posts got moved and also a new rear brace. I keep thinking there is a few more things but wouldn't be positive enough to post it. All in all it is a very nice kit compared to the 3.1. Just my .02 cents.
429racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2004, 06:51 PM   #9315
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

I agree! I think the CK is the best bang for the buck on the market.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:24 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0