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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-06-2002, 06:51 AM   #916
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Pete & Dave- Ah brotherly love...hehehhehe. Dave it sounds like your competition is back during the summer...if you go and pick him up on Saturdays. LOL Pete glad to hear you can race again, tell me how the car works and I'm glad I could help a little. Dave glad to hear you picked up a lathe, the gearing on that Core motor should probably start around 27/100 at 1.85" equivalent and may have to go a tooth up from there if you make runtime but the motor seems a little slow.
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Old 05-07-2002, 12:04 PM   #917
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Hello all,

Well, just had the rug pulled out from under me. As of 4:35 p.m. this past Friday afternoon I was officially unemployed. Unfortunately, I can't discuss why right now but as you can all imagine I won't be doing much for a while anyway. I may make a road trip up to Venture soon just to check the place out. I had even picked up a 1/8th scale buggy to try a little dirt this summer. It's already gone and I may move some other items as time passes. I'll post on here first for those of you who may be interested in any of it.

Later,

Socko

BTW everybody, my first name is spelled Jonny, no "h" please. I know it's a minor detail since it's not my real name but, my alter ego gets annoyed when it's misspelled. Be safe.
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Old 05-07-2002, 01:51 PM   #918
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Tell about the power supply you use.
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Old 05-07-2002, 05:21 PM   #919
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Socko....that sucks bro......you dont have to go into details...but, who did you work for?
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Old 05-07-2002, 05:29 PM   #920
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JonnySocko,

Sorry about the job, man. Also sorry about typing your name wrong. I can't believe that I did that. I know how much it sucks to have your name misspelled/mispronounced, it happens to me all the time! Good luck to you in finding a new job. Unemployment stinks.


Darnold,

Hey man, how are you doin'? I have a question for you...
Last Saturday, during the first and only heat of 1/12 mod, I hit the boards at the end of the straight after clipping that corner for the big sweeper( Still in the Nats track) and my car hit the boards just about straight up and down with the tall piece of Plexiglass near the announcer's station. After it landed, there was no power. I inspected it after the race, and didn't find any battery bars that had disconnected, and no bad connections, so I figured that my receiver crapped out or something because cycling power did nothing for it. After I brought it home and discharged the pack and let it cool off, I took my Flukemeter and measured the total voltage and voltage across each cell. There was Zero volts across the total. I knew that this couldn't be because I had just put it on the discharger and all of the bulbs on my Real Time 2 were still lit( albeit very dim). So, I started measuring across individual cells. Starting on the Positine tang, I measured voltage across that cell. Leaving the positive probe on the Positive tang of the pack( the thing I solder speed control wires to) I moved to the negative to the positive of the next cell. Voltage was present there. I moved the Negative probe to the Negative side of that cell and read Zero volts. I reversed the process with the other two cells and they had voltage all the way to the negative of that cell which read zero. I guess my question is-Can I get that cell back? I am pretty sure the force of the impact caused it to open internally or something, I have not attempted to charge this pack again until I got a chance to talk to you. I know that you get some help from SMC and these are SMC Sanyo 3000HV's that this happened to. I am wondering if you had run into this before and if the cell is salvagable. I am hoping that I can get it zapped or something instead of having to use a substitute cell that I got for free and don't have anywhere near the same numbers as the other three. Any help would be much appreciated. It really sucks because it was my big bad main pack( all of the voltages were in .005 of each other and the run times were great. )that serves double duty on race day. Or did I just whack the best set of batteries I ever had?

Dave
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Old 05-07-2002, 06:15 PM   #921
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Dave S - I know your delema and offer this. Just run a cycle on the individual cell if you have a T-30 or something that can cycle it. I had a nicad do that. It would take a charge, however. It eventually started to pick up voltage and it has been fine ever since. As I see it, you don't have anything to loose. It may take 10 minutes to get it to come around, but I think it will. Charge at 6 amps with a cutoff of .06. Run it a couple of cycles and if it comes around, cycle it with the rest of the batteries to make sure. If it doesn't come back from that, next try zapping it. Good luck.
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Old 05-07-2002, 09:17 PM   #922
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Dave S,

Had the same thing happen to me. Just do like DavidL sez and it should come back.

Dragon,

Can't really go into detail right now. E-m me and I'll fill you in more. You need to check in over at the "House" thread they think you fell off the planet over there.

David L,

I use a Rivergate 30 amp. It's almost small enough, fairly light and it can run two Turbos without breaking a sweat. I've had for about 6 years now and never had a problem. I have a 45 amp for my workbench that needs to go in for service after 10 years of use!
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Old 05-09-2002, 04:58 AM   #923
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Jonny - Email me at leeda@tqci.net I want to discuss power supplies
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Old 05-09-2002, 09:51 PM   #924
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Thanks for the advice, Davidl and Jonnysocko! I asked Danny/SMC about it and he replied that the battery was open and it should receive a proper burial. I will give your suggestions a try. I have an offer from a guy whom does batteries and motors here and he said he may be able to save it. I hope so, this was my "A" pack, you know what I mean? Gotta Go.



Thanks again, guys!
Dave
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Old 05-10-2002, 02:58 AM   #925
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Thumbs up Power Supply

davidl,

I use a ham radio supply. I prefer them because of the super size and weight that you can get them in. I am about to pick up an Alinco 32 amp adjustable volt supply 5-16 volts. It weighs less than five pounds, and has a combined voltage and amp meter. It can be connected to your chargers in three different ways. It has front mounted quick connects for up to 5 amps, a cigarette lighter outlet 10 amps and in the back it has heavy duty connectors for hook up. You get all of this for 140 bucks.
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Old 05-11-2002, 02:27 PM   #926
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TTT
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Old 05-11-2002, 09:12 PM   #927
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Hey guys-
jonnySocko- Bummer about the job dude drop me an e-m and maybe we can arrange to meet up at Venture or I can meet you somewhere and take you up there.

DaveL- hey, how are things going?

DaveS- try what DaveL and Jonny said and if that or your friend can't save it then it's time for a cell. Maybe you can buy a cell from SMC, as crazy as it sounds it may be worth a try.

Dragon- What's up? How have things been?

Well guys I just finished talking with James about the upcoming season and making some plans to be better prepared. What are you guys planning to do differently to get more consistent, faster, or more reliable?
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Old 05-11-2002, 09:16 PM   #928
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Hey DaveS- How did that CORE motor run in practice at that gear ratio? Let me know, hey give me a ring when you can.
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Old 05-11-2002, 11:46 PM   #929
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I bought a carpet knife used and am haviong problems with the diff. It has an IRS axle with the D diff rings, what are all the parts and in what order should they be installed? should it be hub, flanged washer, cone, washers, nut? and how should the washers be? I don't have any washers, and can't find a part number for replacements.
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Old 05-12-2002, 06:04 AM   #930
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Newracer.......going from the inside out...with the axle pointing straight up...obviously, you would have your innner diff ring-bearing if the axle is not stepped-spur gear-diff ring-hub-bearing-alum. cone(narrow side in)-belleville washer(high side out)nut......that should do it.

Darnold.....not much bro...been working on my 12LW....gonna pick up a used Knife in a week or so.Gonna compare em' and see if i've been at a disadvantage
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