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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-18-2004, 05:58 PM   #9256
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Fatdoggy, yeah I'll probaly be running at Trifectia. I would come up to the track but Im just starting to run 1/12 so I basically suck right now. One more question about the diff, I tried readjusting it and it feels good but I can still turn the spur gear with one finger. But if I go about another 3/4 of a turn the diff then feels way to tight
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Old 11-18-2004, 10:14 PM   #9257
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tony - I think your problem is that there is excess oil or grease on the balls and rings and it's making the diff slip. So when you tighten it to stop the slippage it makes the diff way to tight(but may still slip). Take the diff appart and clean it all with motor spray to get any oil or grease off the rings or balls. Try assembling the diff first dry to see if excess lube was the problem, then rebuild it with a little diff lube. Re-assemble and hopefully it will work properly. The ideal diff will be super smooth, tight(only enough to stop the spur slipping) and yet spin freely. If your diff has any slipage it will scar the rings and then the diff can feel gritty. If your diff doesn't feel smooth first check the outside bearing that takes the side load, they wear out quickly.
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Old 11-18-2004, 11:19 PM   #9258
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Quote:
Originally posted by PizzaDude
Guys,

The Hammer chassis looks very light.
Is it still stiff?
Or is part of its design to flef?

Pizza
Does anyone here run a Hammer?
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Old 11-19-2004, 05:40 AM   #9259
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Quote:
Originally posted by PizzaDude
Does anyone here run a Hammer?
I run the AH12 Hammer and I love the car. The chassis is stiff, but not as stiff as the CRC 3.2R and is light. I run Parma tires with mine and I have to add weight to the car.
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Old 11-19-2004, 07:44 AM   #9260
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Quote:
Originally posted by 429racer
I run the AH12 Hammer and I love the car. The chassis is stiff, but not as stiff as the CRC 3.2R and is light. I run Parma tires with mine and I have to add weight to the car.
It is one of the flexiest chassis that I have ever felt, but it doesn't seem to change the handling much since it is so narrow and it doesn't twist as much as a wider chassis.

Tim
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Old 11-19-2004, 08:42 AM   #9261
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Might be a dumb question, but which car is the base of the AH12 Hammer? The AE L4?
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Old 11-19-2004, 09:21 AM   #9262
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429RACER, have you ran a CRC car? How does it compare to the Hammer? I looked at one of those conversion kits last weekend that Jamie was building. Reminded me of the old HPI F1 kit. Did you have the orange with yellow striped 1/12 last weekend that lead some of the 3rd A-main?
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Old 11-19-2004, 09:36 AM   #9263
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Hara's car uses the hpi f1 rear pivot. Talking to him at the paved nats, he has a different thickness chassis for asphalt and carpet, i think the cutouts were the same though, although his chassis was quite flexable when i felt it at the paved nats. As far as the rear bulkhead i think you can use a regular AE rear end and front end, although i have seen versions that use a yokomo style rear end (4 screws that hold down the back, not the AE style of 3).
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Old 11-19-2004, 12:13 PM   #9264
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Does anyone know of a Shop anywhere in the world other than here in the USA that I can get parts for the Kawada M300 Limited 1/12 car.

email me echologicrc@aol.com
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Old 11-19-2004, 12:46 PM   #9265
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Tony Montana,
Instead of going to trifecta to run come to mimi's and run with us doesnt matter how fast or slow you are we are willing to help.I will tell you from experience that running at trifecta wont help you as much as running at mimi's as far as driving setting up or learning about 12th scale.You can ask Fatdoggy one of his friends TO has been with us all thru the summer and we have been helping him out and he is now one of the fast 12th scale drivers in stock.So come on up and learn all ya have to do is ask
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Old 11-19-2004, 01:49 PM   #9266
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Guys how good are the Jaco Aqua rear tires?
How is their traction?
On carpet?
On asfalt/tarmac?
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Old 11-19-2004, 06:10 PM   #9267
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Quote:
Originally posted by serpentracer1
Tony Montana,
Instead of going to trifecta to run come to mimi's and run with us doesnt matter how fast or slow you are we are willing to help.I will tell you from experience that running at trifecta wont help you as much as running at mimi's as far as driving setting up or learning about 12th scale.You can ask Fatdoggy one of his friends TO has been with us all thru the summer and we have been helping him out and he is now one of the fast 12th scale drivers in stock.So come on up and learn all ya have to do is ask
Dead on.

Tony - Yes everybody at mimi's is very helpful, you can walk up to lufaso(5th in 12th at the worlds) and ask him questions, also andrew gray, mike dunnigan, david chester, billy spence. You won't have any trouble finding out how to get your car hooked-up, setup and built properly. As for Heimbert(aka T.O.) he is flying in 12th scale after only a few months. He's gotten alot of help from the locals and has spent a shat load of time at the track perfecting his driving and is racing at the clevland champs in a few days. As a side note I've been waiting for my bmi 12th to arrive for a few months and havn't been racing, so when I get back into racing it will take be ages for me to learn to drive again. As long as you let the fast guys by you really don't have to worry about being hacked.
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Old 11-19-2004, 06:38 PM   #9268
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Fatdoggy I'll try the diff suggestions tommorrow and I'll let you know how it works out. How many 1/12 drivers go to mimi's? Is there a stock and mod class? Serpent racer 1 and Fatdoggy I appreciate the support and may come up there in the next 2 weeks, they still race on Saturdays right, because Sunday is Redskins day. Do you guys race sedans also? Im currently looking for a new sedan havent raced my xxxs in about 3 years and looking for something that is good out of the box and something mimi carries parts for I think that new yokomo sd worlds edition looks good, may as well stick with yokomo since I have a yrx12. Thanks again guys
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Old 11-19-2004, 07:09 PM   #9269
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Yep still saturday, racing starts at 3:30pm. Quite a few 12th drivers now(mod 8 or so, stock 6+), since the champs is in a few days there may be a slight drop off for a week or two. I don't think mimi stocks yok sd parts, but I may be wrong. I used to race stock TC but am moving to 12th.
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Old 11-19-2004, 08:32 PM   #9270
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Quote:
Originally posted by Doug Gaut
429RACER, have you ran a CRC car? How does it compare to the Hammer? I looked at one of those conversion kits last weekend that Jamie was building. Reminded me of the old HPI F1 kit. Did you have the orange with yellow striped 1/12 last weekend that lead some of the 3rd A-main?
Yeah that was me that lad the 3rd Amain till I got hooked in traffic LOL. Oh Well. Last weekend was mt first race with the Hammer car and I loved it. At first I was having issues with the car then after awhile I got some of the bugs worked out and got faster. The car is setup very sensitive. My old CRC car was fast and easy to drive, but was never reactive as this car. The Hammer keeps you driving the car and never a dull moment. I think the Hammer car tweaks a little more in an accident than the CRC. Overall I like the Hammer kit and will definitely continue with it. Jamie is definitely a pretty good guy and he was trying to figure out his car all weekend. I figured mine out just a little too late. You were pretty fast in 12th (well of course you won).
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