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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-16-2004, 01:26 PM   #9226
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
I've bent three sets of the CRC pod plates and if they are any better than the IRS ones then I think it's their design. I believe all the plates available from CRC, IRS and Speedmerchant are made from the same material (6061 aluminum). The only plates I've found that don't bend (even with me using them) are the Niftech ones, which are made from much stronger 7075 aluminum.
O'D
Wow. My father has been running my car from last season, after a three year "sabbatacal" (sp?) from 12th scale, and he hasn't been able to bend them yet. I've also NEVER bent a set of the Speedmerchant plates, and their design is VERY similar to the CRC's aside from the fact that they aren't lowered.
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Old 11-16-2004, 03:39 PM   #9227
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Ian, your father doesn't run fast enough to break anything, esp the pod plates. (sarc)

And the same goes when you ran the GPM plates (double sarc)
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Old 11-16-2004, 04:16 PM   #9228
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Thanks everyone.
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Old 11-16-2004, 05:31 PM   #9229
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Default IRS Lowered pod plates

Does anyone know where I can get some IRS lowered pod plates in time for this weekend? Anodized blue would be nice . I checked stormer and they don't have them in stock. Anyplace else?
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Old 11-16-2004, 06:44 PM   #9230
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Slapmaster6000
How can I get the latest kit,And how much will it be shipped?Can I see pics of the diff assembly?Were you running this car on carpet?
mike

Last edited by whynot; 11-16-2004 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 11-16-2004, 07:41 PM   #9231
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Default Re: IRS Lowered pod plates

Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
Does anyone know where I can get some IRS lowered pod plates in time for this weekend? Anodized blue would be nice . I checked stormer and they don't have them in stock. Anyplace else?
As it currently stands, IRS will be at the event and have some product in the hobby shop. You should be able to get those items there.
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Old 11-17-2004, 09:21 AM   #9232
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I know at our track 1/12 scale is making a huge resurgence!!! With the ever more complicated sedans on the market people are getting tired of all the wrench time versus the fun factor and cost. Is this happening at more raceways than just ours?
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Old 11-17-2004, 09:35 AM   #9233
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Quote:
Originally posted by whynot
Slapmaster6000
How can I get the latest kit,And how much will it be shipped?Can I see pics of the diff assembly?Were you running this car on carpet?
mike
Mike-I may be buying some of hhis products-like the thrust washer assembly and shold have some for sale.

Hey good job running 13.6 last week

Talk to ya soon,
Ray
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Old 11-17-2004, 09:51 AM   #9234
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There are more people racing 12th 4 cells these days...there are mainly 3 groups of them in my city:

1. GP guys...they are used to VDS body shell...they dun really mind their rc not look like a sedan on the street..and they want speed!

2. Exhausted ex 1/10 touring guys- we are tired with the uncountable amount variations you can have in a 1/10 touring.. uncountable amount of "desirable" hot ups you can buy.. etc etc get a 12l3/4 and reassembly our 6 cell packs into 4 cells we got load of running and fun! we dun even need to reinvest in 9 and 10 T motors

3. Newbies- oh really? yes! they started with Miniz, they are comfortable with 2wd, and well trained with their miniz with fets added on, they actually drive 1/12 pretty fast!
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Old 11-17-2004, 10:02 AM   #9235
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i am a 1/10th touring car guy. but wants a bit of a change, bored of being glued to the track on the power
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Old 11-17-2004, 10:28 AM   #9236
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Well, for us we are really 1/8th gas guys, but need something to do in the winter so came carpet 1/12th. Sedan is kinda a new thing to us. After we hosted the nats this year, I took a real good interest in sedan and got many of our old timer club guys running sedan cars. It's definitely a different driving style when you finish a sedan heat then jump right into the 1/12th, or vice versa.

Dom
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Old 11-17-2004, 10:43 AM   #9237
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Quote:
Originally posted by davidl
Ian, your father doesn't run fast enough to break anything, esp the pod plates. (sarc)

And the same goes when you ran the GPM plates (double sarc)
Actually David, My cars are always ballistic, just poorly driven. So I guess what I'm sayin' is, When I hit something I hit it HARD!!! LOL!
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Old 11-17-2004, 10:54 AM   #9238
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Ian, isn't that what Greg's car is for. You grab a heap of throttle, blow past the field on the straight, and then slam into Greg Anthony's car while power sliding to make the turn.

Tim
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Old 11-17-2004, 11:01 AM   #9239
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tim Stamper
Ian, isn't that what Greg's car is for. You grab a heap of throttle, blow past the field on the straight, and then slam into Greg Anthony's car while power sliding to make the turn.

Tim
I do that whenever I race with Greg. His car does make an excellent bumper.
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Old 11-17-2004, 12:34 PM   #9240
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
I do that whenever I race with Greg. His car does make an excellent bumper.
a few seasons ago racing Karts-we had these insane races at Mid-Ohio and Grattan and this one buddy of mine only had rear wheel brakes and damn if he didnt use me to stop on several occasions. Nothing like racing in a 8 to 10 kart pack at 90mph and have your buddy slamming into your side or bumper tryin to late break you with no brakes....

OK-so it wasnt RC related-but the image just popped in my head....
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