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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-15-2004, 08:48 PM   #9211
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Brian,

Nice to hear the update on the MS. I wanted an update on Sunday, but damn Randy would not return my call on Sunday and today! Too bad to hear about the broken t-bar. But then this proves the toughness of the front molded arms which is great to hear. Wes and I always joked about I might be the first person in history to go down as breaking the front arms on the MS.

I was pretty excited on Saturday to hear you were TQ'ed so far in the rounds and it's even better now to hear that production kits will be available shortly!!!

Dom
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Old 11-15-2004, 08:59 PM   #9212
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Quote:
Originally posted by StewartFan20
Thanks, I take it the IRS diff is an aftermarket diff. Or, is it an associated diff? I am new to 1/12 scale and don't know what an IRS diff is... I do know what a diff is though...
It's IRS part #IRS2132. HS price should be about $35-40. Very smooth. The L4 left side hub is too weak. I saw 2 broken this weekend. The IRS one is a little tougher. Otherwise, the l4 and the irs are the same.
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Old 11-15-2004, 09:10 PM   #9213
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Default Re: Monkey Business MS2.2

Quote:
Originally posted by Slapmaster6000
About a week ago, I announced a 12th scale car that I am building. This past weekend in Lynnwood Wa, Rain City Raceway hosted it's 5th annual Slug Fest which is a big NW carpet race. The building was jammed (literaly) until no available pit space was left. This years big out of town name was Chris Tosolini. Chris would be a favorite in both mod touring and mod 12th. Trav Schreven put a lot of pressure on Chris in Touring, but the be surprise was in 12th. I was able to capture the TQ with a 58/8:04 run to Chris's 58/8:09. Not only that, I was able to post 3 58 lap runs to Chris's 1. My Orion V2 powered MS2.2 was a blast to drive. I teamed up with Randy Holst (new owner of an MS2.2) to bounce ideas off of. The car really reacted to changes in a positive maner. The car clearly looked better through the race course, soaking up the minor bumps in the carpet. Chris's Corally looked aweful fast and as you would expect from a top driver, could post a faster lap time by a tenth (7.8 vs my 7.9). Peter Robinson and Waylin Rose gave great chase posting ultra fast 57's. Two brand new MS2.2's and a older MS2.1 made up a ten car A main, taking pole, 5th, and 7th. The start was smooth with Chris attached under my wing. A few laps in, Chris got into serious trouble and would drop to the back of the field a lap down. Peter charged to the front and got within inches of my lead. A 1/3 of the way in, I bump a pipe and Peter gets around easily. While giving chase, I tap a killer corner, sending me to the outside wall at top speed, instantly breaking the t-bar in half! Chris would continue to push hard, but the effort would exhaust the batteries early. Peter cruised the remainder of the race with out further challenge, finishing an excellent effort for the win. Randy finished 4th after a few rough laps in the beginning. I was dead last with a car that was nearly in 2 pieces. Eventhough it looked pretty tough, the only thing wrong with the car was the t-bar. That's racing. With our team effort, many notes were taken back to my shop for review. True production conversion kits should start rolling out the door this week. The Diff update: another two day event has been piled high on top of my now 13 month old diff balls and plates, thanks to the thrust bearing accessory I have added to diff. And it still feels like glass! Yes, you can take your tires on and off with out taking the diff appart. The side load on the 1/4 x 3/8" bearing is gone and instead is transfered to an actual thrust bearing. The diff can actually be ran tighter, eliminating any slippage that destroys the balls and plates. My 12th scale program is back to charging batteries, putting tire sauce on, and actually "thinking" about what change I might want to try instead of doing a lot of maintenance! For more info: blbodine@comcast.net

Brian Bodine

What a great looking car! Congrats on a good showing. I'd like to see about getting information on it........Thanks.

Ronnie
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Old 11-15-2004, 11:08 PM   #9214
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Thanks johnnywhopper. Any other tips or advice to a 1/12th GTP rookie?
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Old 11-16-2004, 10:20 AM   #9215
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Default Am I right?

Am I right, in order to run your tires down to the rim with the 12L4, I need to purchase a lower pod from either CRC or IRS. The stock pod from Associated does not allow the run the tires down to the rims. Right?

Please someone help me, I am getting conflicting information.
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Old 11-16-2004, 10:28 AM   #9216
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Default Re: Am I right?

Quote:
Originally posted by CarpetRacer
Am I right, in order to run your tires down to the rim with the 12L4, I need to purchase a lower pod from either CRC or IRS. The stock pod from Associated does not allow the run the tires down to the rims. Right?

Please someone help me, I am getting conflicting information.
Yes, the L4 pods are not lowered pods.

Dom
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Old 11-16-2004, 10:28 AM   #9217
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Default low rider

You think that AE would have fixed that by now. Saddly, it's true. If you want to run stock or use your tires to the fullest, lowered rear blocks are the way to go.
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Old 11-16-2004, 11:44 AM   #9218
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Default Re: Am I right?

Quote:
Originally posted by CarpetRacer
Am I right, in order to run your tires down to the rim with the 12L4, I need to purchase a lower pod from either CRC or IRS. The stock pod from Associated does not allow the run the tires down to the rims. Right?

Please someone help me, I am getting conflicting information.
I would go with the CRC pod plates. All the IRS plates I had seemed very soft and easy to bend. The CRC set I'm using now has taken several nasty shots into the outside wall and show NO signs of bending at all. I think the CRC plates are a bit cheaper too.
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Old 11-16-2004, 01:02 PM   #9219
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I've bent three sets of the CRC pod plates and if they are any better than the IRS ones then I think it's their design. I believe all the plates available from CRC, IRS and Speedmerchant are made from the same material (6061 aluminum). The only plates I've found that don't bend (even with me using them) are the Niftech ones, which are made from much stronger 7075 aluminum.
O'D
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Old 11-16-2004, 01:04 PM   #9220
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
I've bent three sets of the CRC pod plates and if they are any better than the IRS ones then I think it's their design. I believe all the plates available from CRC, IRS and Speedmerchant are made from the same material (6061 aluminum). The only plates I've found that don't bend (even with me using them) are the Niftech ones, which are made from much stronger 7075 aluminum.
O'D
Are you sure you want to admit youve bent three sets

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Old 11-16-2004, 01:13 PM   #9221
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Ray-
It's well known around here that if a part can survive on one of my cars, then it is well made. Actually, I bent two sets of those shortly after returning to r/c after a 10 year hiatus. Now it takes several races to be sure a part can't be broken by me...
Everyone has thier niche.
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Old 11-16-2004, 01:14 PM   #9222
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Quote:
Originally posted by Claydoh
It's IRS part #IRS2132. HS price should be about $35-40. Very smooth. The L4 left side hub is too weak. I saw 2 broken this weekend. The IRS one is a little tougher. Otherwise, the l4 and the irs are the same.
Irs makes the diff that comes with the L4
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Old 11-16-2004, 01:21 PM   #9223
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Default Re: the King of something

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
Ray-
It's well known around here that if a part can survive on one of my cars, then it is well made. Actually, I bent two sets of those shortly after returning to r/c after a 10 year hiatus. Now it takes several races to be sure a part can't be broken by me...
Everyone has thier niche.
O'D
Nice niche youve found!! I change cars before they get a chance to break-or so my rep here goes....
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Old 11-16-2004, 01:23 PM   #9224
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Default Re: Re: the King of something

Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Nice niche youve found!! I change cars before they get a chance to break-or so my rep here goes....
You change cars before they have a chance to BREAK-IN!!!!
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Old 11-16-2004, 01:23 PM   #9225
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Quote:
Originally posted by Claydoh
It's IRS part #IRS2132. HS price should be about $35-40. Very smooth. The L4 left side hub is too weak. I saw 2 broken this weekend. The IRS one is a little tougher. Otherwise, the l4 and the irs are the same.
Mine broke too. Comparing the AE diff/hubs to my IRS diff/hubs, they are not the same. The IRS hubs look thicker.
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