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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-15-2004, 02:37 AM   #9196
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Default Re: Advice very much appreciated (RC12L3)!!

Quote:
Originally posted by RC12L3a
The threaded metal rod for holding the left wheel hub actually dropped out from the graphite axle!!!! now i can see the hollow axle!

I am thinking of retaining this axle as a spare part...can i use the 12L4 new wheel hub on this axle as a fix???? i am worried that without the threaded metal inside the axle the hollow axle cannot stand with (or stand with it evenly all round) the pressure from the new wheel hub....


pls....and......
i have run only 7 packs with this axle before it is broken

advice very much appreciated

The problem you mentioned is very common. That is why AE made the change on the 12L4. The left side hub on the 12L4 is a standard IRS part. It is the best solution. It would be a good idea to re-install the metal stud in the end of the axle. It is very easy to do with thick CA adhesive. But since you probably will not be able to properly center the stud, the IRS hub would be the only way to properly hold the left side wheel. Good luck.
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Old 11-15-2004, 06:08 AM   #9197
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Hey Guys,

I have been running the new 12l4 for the past month (2 full racing days on the chassis). The first race the car was totally setup and I one my main for the first race. As every racer does after a racing day is to go through the car and examine all the parts for wear and tear. So that's what did throughout the week prior to the second event. At the second race the car ran like crap. All the bearings seemed to be shot (the bearings would spin like crazy. I would like to know how often should these bearings should be replaced!!! Honestly, from driving the car with the blown bearings what a big difference in lap times and driving style.....

Derek Siciliano
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Old 11-15-2004, 06:47 AM   #9198
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I have a chance to get an old 12L3 (maybe older) 1/12 scale care. My question is, what is the difference between the L3 & L4? Can the L3 be easily upgraded to the L4?
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Old 11-15-2004, 07:13 AM   #9199
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Quote:
Originally posted by sKiMpYbOy
Hey Guys,

I have been running the new 12l4 for the past month (2 full racing days on the chassis). The first race the car was totally setup and I one my main for the first race. As every racer does after a racing day is to go through the car and examine all the parts for wear and tear. So that's what did throughout the week prior to the second event. At the second race the car ran like crap. All the bearings seemed to be shot (the bearings would spin like crazy. I would like to know how often should these bearings should be replaced!!! Honestly, from driving the car with the blown bearings what a big difference in lap times and driving style.....

Derek Siciliano
I've had some problem with the bearing right under the thrust cone on the L4. Usually can got 3 or 4 race though. You may be running the diff to tight? That would put to much pressure on that bearings.

take care
john
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Old 11-15-2004, 08:24 AM   #9200
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Skimpy & John

I am assuming the bearings for the rear axle were ruined. In this case, the ride height adjusters must be adjusted to fit the bearing properly. Just take a 3/8 reamer and run it through the bearing hole. Keep doing this until the bearing just snaps into place with your fingers. It should just slide in without heavy pressure.

The differential also requires care. It should not be taken apart until it is time for a rebuild. I suggest you sand the rings flat with 600 paper to take out the ring from friction with the balls. New balls and grease are required during re-assembly. Sometimes the outer bearing needs replacing as well. It is damaged easily when the right rear wheel comes in contact with walls and other objects. It can also be damaged if the assembly is adjusted too tight. I am able to get multiple weekends from mine when doing these things to get optimum performance. Good luck.
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Old 11-15-2004, 09:02 AM   #9201
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Quote:
Originally posted by StewartFan20
I have a chance to get an old 12L3 (maybe older) 1/12 scale care. My question is, what is the difference between the L3 & L4? Can the L3 be easily upgraded to the L4?
Yeah, there are a few changes between L3 and L4 but just get an IRS diff and you are 50% there. Nothing wrong with an L3
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Old 11-15-2004, 09:11 AM   #9202
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Quote:
Originally posted by Claydoh
Yeah, there are a few changes between L3 and L4 but just get an IRS diff and you are 50% there. Nothing wrong with an L3
Thanks, I take it the IRS diff is an aftermarket diff. Or, is it an associated diff? I am new to 1/12 scale and don't know what an IRS diff is... I do know what a diff is though...
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Old 11-15-2004, 09:53 AM   #9203
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thanks guys I will take my time rebuilding the diff.... honestly, with the bearings being blown the car doesn't handle right or even drives smoothly......
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Old 11-15-2004, 10:48 AM   #9204
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Default Broken old style axle

Thanks Davidl

I think i will get a new L4 axle with new style hub...but the question...can i use L4 axle on my L3?



only 6 packs battery and i lost an axle.............................


i hope the new hub can be fitted on my borken L3 axle with an hollow hole..............

btw....has any experienced with any problem with IRS hub/L4 new style hub? anything to be careful to go with?i dun wanna lost an other axle again

million thanks
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Old 11-15-2004, 12:12 PM   #9205
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Quote:
Originally posted by scoobydo
The CRC along with the Hammer Conversion are the only ones
that have the 4 batteries together down the middle instead
of having to saddle them like you do with every other kit.
Actually, the SpeedMerchant Rev. 3 and Rev. 4 have the batteries mounted as a stick pack across the center of the chassis as well.
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Old 11-15-2004, 02:35 PM   #9206
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Default IRS Lower Pod, for L4.

Sorry if this has been asked before, I can't seem to find the answer....

Where can I find the IRS lower pod for the 12L4? I would like to purchase 3 of them.
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Old 11-15-2004, 02:39 PM   #9207
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www.teamirsrc.com

Dom
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Old 11-15-2004, 02:51 PM   #9208
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Default Re: Help!

Quote:
Originally posted by Red Z
Hey all,

I'm new to 1/12th GTP racing but not RC. I have an RC 12L3 that I purchased secondhand. The chassis is alright but I wanted to put CRC short aluminum dampener tubes on it. The problem is that they won't fit. Any suggestions? What can I do to make them fit? Is there some chassis piece that allows them to fit on that car? What should I do?

go to www.teamcrc.com - p/n 1328 gets you everything you need to get the tubes on an L car.
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Old 11-15-2004, 02:58 PM   #9209
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Default Re: Broken old style axle

Quote:
Originally posted by RC12L3a
Thanks Davidl

I think i will get a new L4 axle with new style hub...but the question...can i use L4 axle on my L3?


IRS makes the rear axle, left side hub and diff assembly for Associated and it is supplied in the L4 kit. You can go to Associated for the L4 rear axle assembly or go to IRS and get the same parts. They will fit the L3 very well. And you get a bonus when doing this. You will now be able to space your axle on the motor pod with shims, so centering and axle width can be adjusted. Good Luck.
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Old 11-15-2004, 07:36 PM   #9210
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Default Monkey Business MS2.2

About a week ago, I announced a 12th scale car that I am building. This past weekend in Lynnwood Wa, Rain City Raceway hosted it's 5th annual Slug Fest which is a big NW carpet race. The building was jammed (literaly) until no available pit space was left. This years big out of town name was Chris Tosolini. Chris would be a favorite in both mod touring and mod 12th. Trav Schreven put a lot of pressure on Chris in Touring, but the be surprise was in 12th. I was able to capture the TQ with a 58/8:04 run to Chris's 58/8:09. Not only that, I was able to post 3 58 lap runs to Chris's 1. My Orion V2 powered MS2.2 was a blast to drive. I teamed up with Randy Holst (new owner of an MS2.2) to bounce ideas off of. The car really reacted to changes in a positive maner. The car clearly looked better through the race course, soaking up the minor bumps in the carpet. Chris's Corally looked aweful fast and as you would expect from a top driver, could post a faster lap time by a tenth (7.8 vs my 7.9). Peter Robinson and Waylin Rose gave great chase posting ultra fast 57's. Two brand new MS2.2's and a older MS2.1 made up a ten car A main, taking pole, 5th, and 7th. The start was smooth with Chris attached under my wing. A few laps in, Chris got into serious trouble and would drop to the back of the field a lap down. Peter charged to the front and got within inches of my lead. A 1/3 of the way in, I bump a pipe and Peter gets around easily. While giving chase, I tap a killer corner, sending me to the outside wall at top speed, instantly breaking the t-bar in half! Chris would continue to push hard, but the effort would exhaust the batteries early. Peter cruised the remainder of the race with out further challenge, finishing an excellent effort for the win. Randy finished 4th after a few rough laps in the beginning. I was dead last with a car that was nearly in 2 pieces. Eventhough it looked pretty tough, the only thing wrong with the car was the t-bar. That's racing. With our team effort, many notes were taken back to my shop for review. True production conversion kits should start rolling out the door this week. The Diff update: another two day event has been piled high on top of my now 13 month old diff balls and plates, thanks to the thrust bearing accessory I have added to diff. And it still feels like glass! Yes, you can take your tires on and off with out taking the diff appart. The side load on the 1/4 x 3/8" bearing is gone and instead is transfered to an actual thrust bearing. The diff can actually be ran tighter, eliminating any slippage that destroys the balls and plates. My 12th scale program is back to charging batteries, putting tire sauce on, and actually "thinking" about what change I might want to try instead of doing a lot of maintenance! For more info: blbodine@comcast.net

Brian Bodine
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