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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-12-2004, 05:01 PM   #9166
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Default Re: Re: RC12L4 asphalt

Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Blackstocks setup from the Nats would probably be a good place to start:
Ask Mike Blackstock

Browse through his responses and you'll see a lot great 12th scale info. Also check out Lufaso's web site:
http://home.comcast.net/~mlufaso/rc/

take care
john
Picking your brain since your the only one who has had an answer,
Would the spur/pinon and rollout be the same for a stock or
19 turn motor? I ask because most of the setups I see are for
modified motors.
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Old 11-12-2004, 05:02 PM   #9167
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Default Re: pinion gear

Quote:
Originally posted by Ginsu
Last question, what is a good pinion to run with a 19 turn mod and 100 tooth 64p spur.? thanks (rc12L4)
looks like me and you have the same questions! lol
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Old 11-12-2004, 05:51 PM   #9168
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Ginsu
John,

Just to confirm and not be anal, this is a asphalt set up? thanks.....
The one in Blackstock's post? Yes.
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Old 11-12-2004, 06:24 PM   #9169
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Default droop

Can someone explain droop for a CRC car and how it is measured (e.g., with weight in the car or not? etc, etc...)

Thanks,
Joe
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Old 11-12-2004, 08:05 PM   #9170
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I will call AE tommorrow and get an answer.........
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Old 11-12-2004, 08:07 PM   #9171
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Default Re: droop

Quote:
Originally posted by out_to_lunch
Can someone explain droop for a CRC car and how it is measured (e.g., with weight in the car or not? etc, etc...)

Thanks,
Joe
There is droop on 1/12 i didnt know that, lol. if there is maybe i should check that.
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Old 11-12-2004, 08:10 PM   #9172
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Default

Are they refering to rear pod droop when refering to droop? When you hold the chassis up the rear pod should be level with the main chassis. I have heard people call it droop when the back of the pod sags below the chassis. It is adjusted by lengthening or shortening the shock.
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Old 11-12-2004, 08:36 PM   #9173
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hi all, am thinking about doing some 1/12 racing(not oval) in the new year and am doin some homework on wot to get.
wot do most of u guys recommend, have been looking at the corally and associated ones at the moment, any other brands anyone can recommend?
also any online shops, as i sometimes user tower but i cant find any on there
cheers
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Old 11-12-2004, 09:47 PM   #9174
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Quote:
Originally posted by mufasa
hi all, am thinking about doing some 1/12 racing(not oval) in the new year and am doin some homework on wot to get.
wot do most of u guys recommend, have been looking at the corally and associated ones at the moment, any other brands anyone can recommend?
also any online shops, as i sometimes user tower but i cant find any on there
cheers
The RC12L4 is a good starting kit. You can also get the Hot Bodies
conversion kit for it. It makes it into a Hammer 12 which is what
Atsushi Hara Drives. Similar to the CRC Carpet Knife.
The CRC Carpet Knife is a also good. They just came out with a
new version of their 3.2 Bloody Knife called the 3.2R.
The CRC along with the Hammer Conversion are the only ones
that have the 4 batteries together down the middle instead
of having to saddle them like you do with every other kit.
You can also get the Hammer Conversion kit if you have an Rc12L3.
Yokomo has their worlds edition, but it is pretty old now.
Trinity has the Reflex 12 which is nice, but I hear breaks easy
if your not as experienced in driving 12th.
I also hear that the CEFX is nice. All these cars along with the
associated ones use a T suspension. The Hammer and the Carpet
Knife use a Pivot with springs. Go to TeamCRC.com and check out
the Carpet Knife 3.2R. I have it and is really working good for me.
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Old 11-13-2004, 03:13 AM   #9175
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Quote:
Originally posted by JimMcClure
Are they refering to rear pod droop when refering to droop? When you hold the chassis up the rear pod should be level with the main chassis. I have heard people call it droop when the back of the pod sags below the chassis. It is adjusted by lengthening or shortening the shock.
thats how its done to 1mm droop the rear pod hangs down 1mm below chassis (alter vcs shock length)
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Old 11-13-2004, 03:36 AM   #9176
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Default Rollout for 12th scale

Hey Scoobydoo, here's a link to a good set of roll out tables. Roll out is just a method of figuring out your final drive ratio. Try somewhere between 35 and 40 mmpr, the car should explode out of the corners and still pull a decent speed down the straights. Every motor is different, they have different torque and rpm figures, so that's where the practice sessions come in. Hope this helps....
http://www.teamcrc.com/team_crc_raceway/setups/12th_rollout96.pdf
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Old 11-13-2004, 04:37 AM   #9177
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scoobydo, thanx for the info, am looking into the associated one at the moment.
i know there a are lot of factors involved, but wot would be a good starting pinion size with the provided 100 spur and say around a 7-8 turn motor??
cheers in advance
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Old 11-13-2004, 04:41 AM   #9178
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Default Re: Re: RC12L4 asphalt

Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Blackstocks setup from the Nats would probably be a good place to start:
Ask Mike Blackstock

Browse through his responses and you'll see a lot great 12th scale info. Also check out Lufaso's web site:
http://home.comcast.net/~mlufaso/rc/

take care
john
ill look next time, thanx anyway
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Old 11-13-2004, 06:53 AM   #9179
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by bAsEmEnTLOSI
I am looking into MAYBE getting a new Carpet Knife. This will be my first 1/12 scale car. I saw a race yesterday, and damnit these things are hot. I don't want to go out and buy one tomorrow, or maybe not even this season, but I'm just curious about these little wonders..

Is the Carpet Knife an oval or a road course car? What is the difference? And are oval or road course cars interchangeable?
Seems to me everyone overlooks the "newbie" posts. I'm not new to RC by no hell means, but we were all new to one car or another at one time. I'd just like to get some information about 1/12 scale cars, that's all...

Thanks.
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Old 11-13-2004, 07:07 AM   #9180
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the carpet knife is a roadcourse car, an oval car will have all the batteries on the left hand side so they are not interchangeable.
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