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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 11-11-2004, 06:55 AM   #9151
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@slapmaster6000: that car looks pretty saweet.
Would be nice if you could post a detailed picture of the front end especially of the lower pivot. I wonder if the ball is molded into the graphite...
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Old 11-11-2004, 08:14 AM   #9152
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Default Re: MS2.2

Originally posted by Slapmaster6000
Need another peek?
Wow-I saw that car in a pic from a race last year?? I am glad this is a made in the USA car. So we can actuallu get one.

I'll take some of the thrust bearings!! How much?

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Old 11-11-2004, 11:17 AM   #9153
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Default CRC Threaded Titanium Stub Axles on other 12th scale?

hi guys

does this part works in other 12th scale as well?

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Old 11-11-2004, 11:21 AM   #9154
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it will work with the assoc dynamic front end.. it may work with the old styly front end too
Do or Do Not, There Is No Try
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Old 11-11-2004, 11:29 AM   #9155
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Those CRC front axles appear to be the same as the Lunsford ones. If you use them on the old style front end the inside nut hits the Suspension arm. You can trim the arm or cut off the inner 4/40 stub and thread the axle in with glue.
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Old 11-12-2004, 10:45 AM   #9156
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I am looking into MAYBE getting a new Carpet Knife. This will be my first 1/12 scale car. I saw a race yesterday, and damnit these things are hot. I don't want to go out and buy one tomorrow, or maybe not even this season, but I'm just curious about these little wonders..

Is the Carpet Knife an oval or a road course car? What is the difference? And are oval or road course cars interchangeable?
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Old 11-12-2004, 10:48 AM   #9157
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Did anyone of ya ever managed to have your tires truly cutted into a circle???

I use a low end seiki truer and q-world arbor (they costed me only sth like US 95.00) to cut my jaco tires......they look rounder than when they were just out of the package boxes..but still not a perfect circle! (tho acceptably circle)

i cutted the front down to 44.5 and 46.5 at the rear (using the original ride height shims at the front, original motor plates at the rear with #4 axle holder having the hole downward). Please any advise before i test this setup out?

(oh yes..and i use jace double pink at the front and pink at the rear, ground effect tire juice, 1/2 at the front and all at the rear.)

one last thing, there is a myth that you apply tire juice on your foam tires, and seal them in an air-tight zip zap bag....and you will get huge grip...can anyone confirm if that is true?
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Old 11-12-2004, 11:06 AM   #9158
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anyone know where i can get a manual for my switchblade?
Schumacher Racing
Schumacher Cat SX2
Schumacher Cougar SV
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Old 11-12-2004, 11:15 AM   #9159
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Anyone know of any online shops that have Protoform Speed 12's in stock?

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Old 11-12-2004, 02:22 PM   #9160
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Default RC12L4 asphalt

Can someone give me a good set up for asphalt for a 12L4 onroad......I will be running a 64 pitch spur...not sure what tooth to run and what pinion......any set up info would be appreciated. I have never run 12th scale before. Thanks
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Old 11-12-2004, 03:42 PM   #9161
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Default Re: RC12L4 asphalt

Originally posted by Ginsu
Can someone give me a good set up for asphalt for a 12L4 onroad......I will be running a 64 pitch spur...not sure what tooth to run and what pinion......any set up info would be appreciated. I have never run 12th scale before. Thanks
I've been trying to get an answer for that since day one of me
getting into 12th. From what I have found out, their is NO
answer for it. You keep getting replies that say "It depends on
the track". I've seen people use spurs from the high 70's all the
way to 100. From what I can make out, all that matters is the
rollout. Depending on the compination of Spur/Pinion, you can
get the same rollout using an number of different combinations
of spur/pinion. Somebody told me that the norm is 100 tooth
spur because its easier to do the math with a clean number like
100. You then change the pinion to get the desired rollout.
If anybody has a good link to explain 12th settings or has a good
answer, please let us 12th newbies know.
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Old 11-12-2004, 03:43 PM   #9162
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Default Re: RC12L4 asphalt

Originally posted by Ginsu
Can someone give me a good set up for asphalt for a 12L4 onroad......I will be running a 64 pitch spur...not sure what tooth to run and what pinion......any set up info would be appreciated. I have never run 12th scale before. Thanks
Blackstocks setup from the Nats would probably be a good place to start:
Ask Mike Blackstock

Browse through his responses and you'll see a lot great 12th scale info. Also check out Lufaso's web site:

take care
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Old 11-12-2004, 03:45 PM   #9163
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Thanks John
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Old 11-12-2004, 03:55 PM   #9164
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Just to confirm and not be anal, this is a asphalt set up? thanks.....
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Old 11-12-2004, 04:00 PM   #9165
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Default pinion gear

Last question, what is a good pinion to run with a 19 turn mod and 100 tooth 64p spur.? thanks (rc12L4)
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