R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


Print Wikipost

Like Tree40Likes
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-09-2004, 02:26 PM   #9136
Tech Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 927
Send a message via ICQ to Cartman

can tel you 2 shops in uk
Dremel UK - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech UK - MBModels UK - MRT
Cartman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2004, 03:53 PM   #9137
Tech Addict
JCB's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 741

Originally posted by Fire
I need some help!!

I've get my car built and everything ready to go, but i can not find a shop that has the hudy 1/12 arbour in stock.....

does anyone know where i can find one? or some other subsitutides that will work with a hudy tire lathe

You can try www.ashfordhobby.com
JCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2004, 12:59 AM   #9138
Tech Regular
adamkerrnz's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 268

would running 4 cell GP3300's and a mod motor on a corally SP12G3 totally mess the car up. it was made for 6 cell but i really wana try out 4 cell. im getting a RC10L4 for christmas so ill prob just use my corally for practice.
i want your opinion
adamkerrnz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2004, 03:44 AM   #9139
Tech Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 969
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)

Adam - 4 cells and a modified motor will be fine in the Corally. True, it was designed for 6 cells, however, the motors and batteries available today will propell it just as fast as the six cells and motors of 1997 when the car came out.
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2004, 06:00 AM   #9140
Tech Elite
rdub202's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: TeamAcademy/MRC, MI
Posts: 2,359
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rdub202

i currently own an L3 and a Carpet knife 3.1(?) and i have a carpet track by my house that i would like to race at. by my dads house there is an asphault track to race at. should i use the l3 for asphault and knife for carpet or just get comfortable with one and go back and forth? what compound of tires are used for asphault?
_|Team Academy GV2 Pro_|_Team Academy SBV2 Pro|_--->Losi xxxbK2 (FOR SALE)
_|Factory Tracks Midwest Series_|_www.factorytracks.com|_
_|Team Upgrade-RCid_|_www.upgrade-rc.com|_
_|MRC/Team Academy_|_www.modelrec.com|_
rdub202 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2004, 06:53 PM   #9141
Tech Regular
adamkerrnz's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 268

Originally posted by davidl
Adam - 4 cells and a modified motor will be fine in the Corally. True, it was designed for 6 cells, however, the motors and batteries available today will propell it just as fast as the six cells and motors of 1997 when the car came out.
so you dont think it will screw up the balance of the car? i will be placing the batteries in the foward 4 slots of the 6 slots it has, i am guessing that it will give me more steering. am i correct? would a 14turn motor be powerful enough for the corally SP12G3, my speed controller is a Futaba MC330CR and i believe it can handle 13turn, but to keep on the safe side i usually keep it above the limit at 14 turn's.
adamkerrnz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2004, 07:04 PM   #9142
Tech Elite
odpurple's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,192
Default move em back

You're right, your car will have a lot of steering with the batteries in the front slots. Probably too much! If you place them in the rear slots the car will handle like most current 4 cell cars. That is what we did when running 12L3s. A 14 turn motor will work but would not be competetive at most tracks.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2004, 07:36 PM   #9143
Tech Regular
adamkerrnz's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 268

ok, ill have to get a new ESC then
adamkerrnz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2004, 08:04 PM   #9144
Tech Addict
gacjr0's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 726
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)

not neccessarily, that esc is rated at 13+ turns for 6-7 cells, 4 cells and a 9-10 motor will still draw less amps than 6 cells and 13 turns, so you're ok there; the problem you may run into is that it is rated for 6-7 cell use it may not work with just 4.8v from the battery
gacjr0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2004, 08:43 PM   #9145
Tech Fanatic
primusblowsgoat's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Pingree Grove, IL
Posts: 987
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to primusblowsgoat Send a message via Yahoo to primusblowsgoat

ok so i been reading and you guys all say 12th and 10th pan cars are way differnt and faster than touring cars. would you say its more like driving 2wd mod buggy?

ive raced alot of mod buggy and like it

raced a little touring and suck at it.

baught a used switchblade and cant wait to get it on a track but dont know what to expect
Schumacher Racing
Schumacher Cat SX2
Schumacher Cougar SV
primusblowsgoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2004, 12:51 AM   #9146
Tech Elite
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 3,003
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default MS2.2 12 scale conversion kit

Howdy 12 scale fans! There is something new that is about to come out of the Northwest. Without beating around the bush, this could quite honestly be the fastest 12th scale car "in" and "through" the corners on the rug. It has quietely been developed over the last year and refined until it is now ready for release to the racing public. It already has TQ'ed and Won Region #11 12th modified by the only two cars that existed. It is the only molded carbon fiber chassis on the market that takes advantage rounded edges with a tubbed concept. The design is simple and quick to adjust. The car comes with adjustable front roll center to tune for different track conditions. The batteries can be slid fore and aft. The chassis is molded at the same angle as the front of the body, no more torn body post holes. It comes with a front bumper that protects the car and the body. This is a real deal, for more info, contact Brian at: blbodine@comcast.net Slapmaster Tools. Plus: tired of fixing your diff every other weekend? I am racing on the same balls and plates for the last 13 months and it still feels like glass! This diff has seen nothing less the modified. Start saving $$$ now and quit blowing up those 1/4x3/8" bearings.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg p1010002.jpg (154.8 KB, 408 views)
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2004, 12:55 AM   #9147
Tech Elite
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 3,003
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default MS2.2

Need another peek?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg p1010007.jpg (160.4 KB, 275 views)
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2004, 01:16 AM   #9148
Tech Elite
litespeed-dom's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)

I can't wait to test out this car soon! I saw the early version of this car this past summer, it is absolutely amazing!

Brian's stuff is top notch and he's been in racing for a long long time. His thrust bearing is a MUST get for your 1/12th axle!!!

Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2004, 02:13 AM   #9149
Tech Adept
Carbonator's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 103
roll-out 4 cell 12turn mod

Hi there

Hope you can help me out here.
I'm new to 12th but got some experience in PRO10.
Can someone tell me wat a good roll-out is for:
12 turn modified

With PRO10 I run at 34-36 mm/rev [6-cell (ofcourse) 12t mod]

"Doing left-turns only, means you're missing half the fun..."
Carbonator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2004, 06:14 AM   #9150
Tech Adept
basementLOSI's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Niagara Falls area
Posts: 117
Send a message via AIM to basementLOSI

I am looking at getting in 1/12 scale, and I would like an road course car. Could anyone point me in the direction of some mighty fine contenders? This is pretty general, but as I said.. this is probably the first time ever that I have looked seriously into 1/12 cars.

Thanks in advance.
basementLOSI is offline   Reply With Quote

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 04:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 01:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 07:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 08:26 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:53 PM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net