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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-08-2004, 04:03 AM   #9121
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Quote:
Originally posted by beetlebz
so you think the carpet knife would be the better choice? im getting that kind of response everywhere lol

the only thing that concerns me about the L4 and the carpet knife, which is why i was considering the L3, is incase 6 cell mod makes a come back again too and im left taping batteries in funny places seeing as the chassis are designed to hold 4 cells. but hell if im being paranoid just smack me.
GO for the CRC Carpet Knife, the car are from my point the best car you can get you hands on, they have the best service you can
get, and it works on all tracks, flat, bumpy, Asphalt

And it can be setup up to do what you want it to do.

And Frank have a lot going on, new stuff :-)
And we have the best Team Manager (Robert)

Any i can tell you i have try all cars., to learn all about it
It is like in the Lord off the Rings
On to find them on to bring them together, and on to rule them :-) and the CRC Carpet Knife, will do that

Use god time to build it, i'm sure you will love it :-)

Have fun

Alf :-)
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Old 11-08-2004, 12:44 PM   #9122
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yes i noticed that, i bought the car second hand and assumed it would have been put together correctly. the larger bit of the hub was facing inward. i have turned it around and moved some shims about and its just about perfect!!!!!!!!!

goes like stink from standing now! (STRAIGHT!)

do people who race oval change anything like this on purpose??
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Old 11-08-2004, 12:54 PM   #9123
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I have ran the newwer Carpet Knife 3.2 and will say I like the New SpeedMerchant Rev.4 a lil better.Seems to carry more speed in the corners.This may be due to the narrower chassis.Yes you have to use tape now but under hard impact the batteries didnt stay in the CRC anyway.Plus you can see where it binds the chassis with the rubber band.
They are VERY close in quality and alot of the same design due to their older partnership but I will have to give props to the New Rev 4.
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Old 11-09-2004, 01:35 AM   #9124
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Default the additional batteries on 12th cars

So I've recently got into 12th and have just noticed something I was wondering somebody could explain. The 6 tiny batteries on 12th cars (150 Mah I think).
I assume they are there to power the servo and other electrics to the leave the four cells for the motor?
Is their any tutorials or info about it online?
Where do the leads go? whats the best way to do it? etc..
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Old 11-09-2004, 03:00 AM   #9125
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Most likely to the BEC slot at the receiver or any other unused servo slot.
Black for negative and Red for positive. Get a proper connector for the hookup.
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Old 11-09-2004, 05:55 AM   #9126
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Quote:
Originally posted by TexRacer
I have ran the newwer Carpet Knife 3.2 and will say I like the New SpeedMerchant Rev.4 a lil better.Seems to carry more speed in the corners.This may be due to the narrower chassis.Yes you have to use tape now but under hard impact the batteries didnt stay in the CRC anyway.Plus you can see where it binds the chassis with the rubber band.
They are VERY close in quality and alot of the same design due to their older partnership but I will have to give props to the New Rev 4.
The new "Carpet Knife 3.2R" has more narrow chassis

I have fixed the battery problem in a nice way, no more rubber band on my car


Alf :-)
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:11 AM   #9127
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I don't use the "rubber band" on my Carpet Knives... I replaced the posts with 'standoffs' (like are used for the rear cross brace), then cut a fiberglass "battery bar" about 5/16" wide and just long enough to go from one post to the other... I drop in the battery, then use 4-40 button head screws to attach the battery bar... With this setup, I've NEVER had a battery come loose under race conditions!

This is an old picture of my CK v1.0, but I've done the same thing to my CK v3.1...:



This setup does NOT "bind" the chassis, and in fact, it stiffens and braces it... Works for me...
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:16 AM   #9128
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Quote:
Originally posted by tfrahm
I don't use the "rubber band" on my Carpet Knives... I replaced the posts with 'standoffs' (like are used for the rear cross brace), then cut a fiberglass "battery bar" about 5/16" wide and just long enough to go from one post to the other... I drop in the battery, then use 4-40 button head screws to attach the battery bar... With this setup, I've NEVER had a battery come loose under race conditions!

This is an old picture of my CK v1.0, but I've done the same thing to my CK v3.1...:

That is more or less what i did to
But i have drill the hole in line whit the link and the battery brace that is down on the chassis so i can make my car narrow if i want

Alf :-)
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Old 11-09-2004, 07:05 AM   #9129
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What are the thoughts on the CRC T-Force car?
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Old 11-09-2004, 01:30 PM   #9130
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I need some help!!

I've get my car built and everything ready to go, but i can not find a shop that has the hudy 1/12 arbour in stock.....

does anyone know where i can find one? or some other subsitutides that will work with a hudy tire lathe


Thanks
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Old 11-09-2004, 01:41 PM   #9131
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try www.rc-mushroom.com
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Old 11-09-2004, 01:49 PM   #9132
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Quote:
Originally posted by JJ187RC
What are the thoughts on the CRC T-Force car?
I have a friend just did the first test on one last weekend and he's a 15 year 1/12th veteran. Said the car has more steering then ever seen. He's looking forward to it. He got the thick chassis too but will be switching back to the regular chassis next time. Car is a bit on the heavy side though with the thick chassis.

Dom
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Old 11-09-2004, 01:56 PM   #9133
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SP12G3 HELP!!!

i have a corally SP12G3, great car. but recently i have snapped a few parts.
does anybody know of a internet shop somewhere in the US where i can get G3 chassis parts. i am hoping for a RC10L4 for christmas but i still love my corally and i want to get it going again.
can you name the broken part anybody?


i think this is the T-Bar which has snapped, i had drilled some new holes and fixed it but its outta line. heres a pic. what is tha part called?
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Old 11-09-2004, 01:57 PM   #9134
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fire
I need some help!!

I've get my car built and everything ready to go, but i can not find a shop that has the hudy 1/12 arbour in stock.....

does anyone know where i can find one? or some other subsitutides that will work with a hudy tire lathe


Thanks
I personally uses Hudy, never tried the Integy before, but looks decent...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WD1V

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Old 11-09-2004, 02:08 PM   #9135
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Default Re: SP12G3 HELP!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by adamkerrnz
i have a corally SP12G3, great car. but recently i have snapped a few parts.
does anybody know of a internet shop somewhere in the US where i can get G3 chassis parts. i am hoping for a RC10L4 for christmas but i still love my corally and i want to get it going again.
can you name the broken part anybody?


i think this is the T-Bar which has snapped, i had drilled some new holes and fixed it but its outta line. heres a pic. what is tha part called?

ANYONE????????
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