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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-06-2004, 06:34 AM   #9106
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Quote:
Originally posted by beetlebz
hey guys, ill start out by saying im an offroad nitro guy. so brace yourself for the dumb questions...

the two classes im interested in racing at my LHS are modified 1/12 pan car, and stock 1/12 touring. for both they are the same car, the difference is the motor and the body. so with that in mind, which of the following 3 cars would be ideal for my setup?

the AE 12L3, the 12L4, or the Carpet Knife? AE parts are readily available from my LHS, some guy just bought the very first carpet knife at our track, so im sure parts will become available. im pretty sure both classes will be 4 cell, and while we will be doing some carpet oval, it will mostly be a road course we will race on (its a modular oval).

so, what do you guys think i should invest in for my first carpet venture?

thanks

I've had both and liked the carpet knife better, the main reason, 4 cells put together, no taping!!!!
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Old 11-06-2004, 07:19 AM   #9107
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Quote:
Originally posted by lastplace
I've had both and liked the carpet knife better, the main reason, 4 cells put together, no taping!!!!
I havent had the L4 yet, but would like to try it, but i do have the CRC. And another great thing alot the CRC not only do you have 4 cells together, NO T-BAR!
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Old 11-06-2004, 09:12 AM   #9108
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so you think the carpet knife would be the better choice? im getting that kind of response everywhere lol

the only thing that concerns me about the L4 and the carpet knife, which is why i was considering the L3, is incase 6 cell mod makes a come back again too and im left taping batteries in funny places seeing as the chassis are designed to hold 4 cells. but hell if im being paranoid just smack me.
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Old 11-06-2004, 09:23 AM   #9109
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Quote:
Originally posted by beetlebz
so you think the carpet knife would be the better choice? im getting that kind of response everywhere lol

the only thing that concerns me about the L4 and the carpet knife, which is why i was considering the L3, is incase 6 cell mod makes a come back again too and im left taping batteries in funny places seeing as the chassis are designed to hold 4 cells. but hell if im being paranoid just smack me.

I wouldn't count on 6 cell 1/12 scale making a comeback. The cars are fast enough on 4 cells and the damage is minimal when the car taps a board. 6 cell cars will nearly explode on impact with the ballistic speed they can achieve.


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Old 11-06-2004, 02:30 PM   #9110
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Quote:
Originally posted by DPowell
6 cell cars will nearly explode on impact with the ballistic speed they can achieve.


D.P.
Yeah we run 6 cell stock here and i'm always nervous of hitting a board as I know i'll break something just about every time
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Old 11-06-2004, 05:24 PM   #9111
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Has anyone tried using a Novak GTX with someting like a speed 12? Is there enough clearance for the heatsink?
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Old 11-06-2004, 11:39 PM   #9112
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Default dampener tubes on Rugrat

he yall does someone make a suitable replacement for the dampener tubes on the IRS Rugrat? I broke the white piece where it threads, pretty thin IMHO anyhoo i'm dead in the water until i can get a replacement piece from IRS.

Did someone make a better designed/stronger one? I ran the car all last year without a problem maybe it was a luckly hit.
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Old 11-07-2004, 08:59 AM   #9113
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ok i have a CRC Carpet knife v3 i posted a while back about my car pulling under acceleration. i was told to check the rear end was completely free which i have done and its very free. I was also told to do something with the rear track, something to do with the wheels being an equal length from the center of the car...

have you got any tips on how to find the center of the car and how to adjust the wheel track.... if that what i am meant to do.. ???

or am i barking up the wrong tree and its nothing to do with the rear track width, position..?? any imput helpful, Cheers
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Old 11-07-2004, 09:06 AM   #9114
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pheyhoe, I adjust it by removing the wheels and placing the chassis on a flat surface. Then I lay a straight edge along the edge of the chassis and measure the distance from the hub surface to the edge of the straight edge.
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Old 11-07-2004, 09:08 AM   #9115
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i will give it a go !
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Old 11-07-2004, 09:31 AM   #9116
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right i have done that but i think i need some shims, there were two on one side that i have moved over to the other but they have only made about 1mm difference, the wheels are still about 3mm out from right to left. where can i get these shims from? can you get thicker ones?
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Old 11-07-2004, 10:55 AM   #9117
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check the higher up on thnis page-thicker shims were discussed a little
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Old 11-07-2004, 11:23 AM   #9118
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Quote:
Originally posted by pheyhoe
right i have done that but i think i need some shims, there were two on one side that i have moved over to the other but they have only made about 1mm difference, the wheels are still about 3mm out from right to left. where can i get these shims from? can you get thicker ones?
Wow 3mm no wonder. I would bet that was your problem.
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Old 11-07-2004, 01:42 PM   #9119
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Quote:
Originally posted by pheyhoe
right i have done that but i think i need some shims, there were two on one side that i have moved over to the other but they have only made about 1mm difference, the wheels are still about 3mm out from right to left. where can i get these shims from? can you get thicker ones?
i would make sure you have the left hub (opposite end to spur ) the right way round this can alter it as you say making allot of differance. take it off and flip it 180 degress and re measure
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Old 11-07-2004, 04:55 PM   #9120
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The left hub on the Carpet Knife is a dual 2 bolt/3 bolt design. If you use the 2 bolt setting with 3 bolt rear wheels, your rear width will be way off.

The shorter flange goes toward the bearing for the 3 bolt configuration. You will also notice that the 3 bolt rim slip fits over the opposite "longer" flange when correctly installed.

I would bet right now you have the longer side pointed in instead of having the wheel mounted over the longer flange/wheel boss.
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