R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-04-2004, 08:29 PM   #9091
Tech Master
 
JJ187RC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Keller, TX.
Posts: 1,607
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default Gearing

What is a good starting point for gearing in 12th scale with a 13x2 and 96 tooth spur gear?
JJ187RC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2004, 08:42 PM   #9092
Tech Adept
 
RC4SALE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: ROAR Region 1
Posts: 175
Talking Re: Gearing

Quote:
Originally posted by JJ187RC
What is a good starting point for gearing in 12th scale with a 13x2 and 96 tooth spur gear?
depends on track size (rool out)
RC4SALE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2004, 09:31 PM   #9093
Tech Master
 
JJ187RC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Keller, TX.
Posts: 1,607
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

The track is almost 100 feet long and about 50 feet wide.

If you want to see ap ic go to http://www.mikeshobbyshop.com and then click on the track cam.
JJ187RC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2004, 09:54 PM   #9094
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 33
Default THANKS TO ALL THAT HELPED ME!!!!

I want to thank all the people that have been helping me and answering my questions the last couple weeks! I know I have been asking some very basic questions, but 1/12th scale racing is very new to me.

I raced my 12L4 for the very first time tonight! I won the A main, I had a lap over second place!!! With out you people helping me, I never would have accomplished that victory!!!


Again thanks to all that helped me!!!
CarpetRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2004, 11:05 PM   #9095
Tech Master
 
Speedie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,844
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by koabich
Hey guys, i am sure this question has been asked and I tried searching. I race 1/10 scale touring on an indoor carpet track. I am going to be purchasing a 1/12 scale for racing on this same tight, carpet track and I was wondering what the difference is between cars that have T-plates and those that use damper tubes?
Which one would be prefered for carpet and why?
Thanks
T bar cars use the bar for a pivot and as rear spring. Rear spring tension is adjusted by the thickness of the Tbar. Cars like the Carpet knive use a different piviot and use side springs to do the spring of the rear. Both systems can use dampening tubes and dampening discs. The tubes and discs act as side dampening by changing the viscosity of the fluid in the tube and on the discs.
The preference in wich it better comes down to driver preference. Both platforms work well. Im not sure one is better over the other, driver skill is a large part of the equation in 12th scale.
__________________
www.victoryhobbies.com Greenbay, Wisconsin
Speedie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2004, 06:59 AM   #9096
Tech Master
 
koabich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Detroit Area
Posts: 1,360
Send a message via Yahoo to koabich
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by SpeediePHATT
T bar cars use the bar for a pivot and as rear spring. Rear spring tension is adjusted by the thickness of the Tbar. Cars like the Carpet knive use a different piviot and use side springs to do the spring of the rear. Both systems can use dampening tubes and dampening discs. The tubes and discs act as side dampening by changing the viscosity of the fluid in the tube and on the discs.
The preference in wich it better comes down to driver preference. Both platforms work well. Im not sure one is better over the other, driver skill is a large part of the equation in 12th scale.
Thanks, what are the handling differences between the two? Is one more suitable for carpet?
Thanks
koabich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2004, 08:25 AM   #9097
Tech Master
 
Speedie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,844
Default

In my opinion, one is no better than the other on carpet. Both win races both win national championships. Go with wichever one you think youd like to try first. Wichever you think is cooler. See whats working best on the tracks you will be racing it on. And wichever your local track has better parts support for.
__________________
www.victoryhobbies.com Greenbay, Wisconsin
Speedie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2004, 08:52 AM   #9098
Tech Master
 
koabich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Detroit Area
Posts: 1,360
Send a message via Yahoo to koabich
Default

Thanks!!
koabich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2004, 12:40 PM   #9099
Tech Regular
 
beetlebz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 452
Send a message via AIM to beetlebz
Default

hey guys, ill start out by saying im an offroad nitro guy. so brace yourself for the dumb questions...

the two classes im interested in racing at my LHS are modified 1/12 pan car, and stock 1/12 touring. for both they are the same car, the difference is the motor and the body. so with that in mind, which of the following 3 cars would be ideal for my setup?

the AE 12L3, the 12L4, or the Carpet Knife? AE parts are readily available from my LHS, some guy just bought the very first carpet knife at our track, so im sure parts will become available. im pretty sure both classes will be 4 cell, and while we will be doing some carpet oval, it will mostly be a road course we will race on (its a modular oval).

so, what do you guys think i should invest in for my first carpet venture?

thanks
beetlebz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2004, 03:28 PM   #9100
Tech Addict
 
stumper1's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 549
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Rear axle shims

Does anyone know of any rear axle shims that are thicker than the associated ones?

Thanks,
stumper1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2004, 03:30 PM   #9101
Tech Addict
 
Blue Sky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 669
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to Blue Sky
Default Re: Rear axle shims

Quote:
Originally posted by stumper1
Does anyone know of any rear axle shims that are thicker than the associated ones?

Thanks,

I use a glow plug washer.
Blue Sky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2004, 03:38 PM   #9102
Tech Addict
 
JohnB's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Oregon City, Or
Posts: 674
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Re: Rear axle shims

Quote:
Originally posted by stumper1
Does anyone know of any rear axle shims that are thicker than the associated ones?

Thanks,
Somebody makes a shim kit. Losi maybe? I don't remember. I got one a year or so ago. It had some different thicknesses of washers as well as different diameters.

For front ride height washers, check Lowe's or Home Depot. They have some 1/4" alum. washers that are half the thickness as Assoc. ones. Better to fine tune the front ride height.

take care
john
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2004, 05:49 PM   #9103
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default axle shims

Niftech makes some phenolic shims that are about .040" thick. He also makes an aluminum spacer .100" thick.
O'D
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2004, 07:10 PM   #9104
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 864
Default

IRS has some #8 washers in plastic that are .040 thick, I think. They are intended to give fine adjustment capability for the front suspension.
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2004, 08:23 PM   #9105
Tech Champion
 
rayhuang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 6,511
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rayhuang
Default Re: Re: Rear axle shims

Quote:
Originally posted by Blue Sky
I use a glow plug washer.
Also the Oval guys have all kinds of trick axle spacers in all different sizes. I "think" mine are Wolfe, or was that Hyperdrive??? Anyways-search for an oval distributer like rc4less and search around.
rayhuang is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:02 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0