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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 10-25-2004, 05:51 PM   #8986
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ya no problem, you should know that when you put the front end together take your time with those turnbuckles since there are like 6 of them. I really liked my reflex it was very low and quick, i only broke the t-bar once which was fine. They say to get the lower rear pod because it breaks. (I havent broken one)

You also have to use an x-acto knife or something and file the top plastic part so you can get your turning. It should be in the manual on that.

Hope it helps.

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Old 10-25-2004, 08:07 PM   #8987
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Im looking to get a 1/12th in the next month or so (bring on christmas! need to give the better half an idea on something to get me, 1/12 is the only thing I want ), and im interested in either the RC12L4 or the CEFX C12.

Im leaning towards the RC12L4 particularly seeing as it just got 1st and 3rd at the worlds, but I do like what Cyrul has done/is doing for the sport and I want to support his venture into building car kits (and its no slouch either), but everywhere I look it seems that either of them are not in stock or havent been released yet? What is the deal with either of these cars? Are they still to be released, or just selling like hotcakes?
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Old 10-25-2004, 08:19 PM   #8988
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v0rtex--If you want to get a C12 I would wait just a little longer. I have heard that there will be a Team Edition where everything will be anadized green. Plus Josh has been swamped with orders for kits, and a lot of shops are sold out. Hopefully he will have them out for x-mas though.

I have known Josh for years and he has always been a great guy, and I really respect what he is doing for 1/12.
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Old 10-28-2004, 04:31 PM   #8989
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Default carpet knife question

I am rebuilding my carpet knife and noticed the rear pod is closer to one side of the chassis than the other. Do I bend one arm to make it shorter? Can the ball mounts be adjusted forward or back? How about a starting ride height for carpet?
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Old 10-28-2004, 11:25 PM   #8990
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Reset the rear end alignment by loosening the football shaped graphite piece. Then follow the directions in the book regarding the rear end alignment.
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Old 10-28-2004, 11:32 PM   #8991
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Loosening the football won't change the alignment, it only adjusts the "bind" of the links. Without adjustable side links you can't adjust the rear alignment on a CK. If the rear axle is out of parallel something is bent or broken (link balls, links, link mount holes). Find what is not right and repair/replace it.
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Old 10-28-2004, 11:34 PM   #8992
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Cool comparing 1/12 and touring1/10

Wouild like to ask questions about 1/12 cars. Here in my place nobody runs a 1/12. Im interested because of the recent world championships. how does a 1/12 car compare with touring cars when it comes to speed, drivability, fun, and cost? hope anyone can help. thanks.
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Old 10-28-2004, 11:42 PM   #8993
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Asking that question on this forum will get you a predjudiced answer, but...1/12th cars are more agile and reactive, somewhat harder to drive, but way more fun (when your car works). The cars are simpler with way fewer parts and 2 less cells, so perhaps cheaper. 1/12th was around long before touring cars and will probably be here after they are gone. You should try one, you'll like it!

Last edited by odpurple; 10-28-2004 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 10-28-2004, 11:42 PM   #8994
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Default Carpet Knife


I've got a brand new v3.1 that had been assembled/never run. The wheels/tires that came with the kit wobble like a drunk nun. The fronts more so than the rears, to the point I'd wager the car would be undriveable. Even the truer won't help this lot. Same problem (though not QUITE so bad) with a set of NIP CRC spares. Is this a common problem? Kind of sucks that what I'd figured to be nearly $80 in tires is useless as a diet crouton.

Also, just getting back into RC after 12+ years away. I could see right away how to lower the rear ride height (all these years and we still haven't improved on the RC12L) but I can't see any way to lower the front ride height other than either "truing" the front tires down to nothing or shimming the suspension up off the chassis.


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Old 10-28-2004, 11:48 PM   #8995
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Default wobble wobble

CRC cars used to come with Jaco tires which have always had problems with straightness. Now they come with CRC tires which I have to say are even worse (at least the fronts are, in my experience). I think TRC wheels are a little better. The only consistantly straight wheels I have found are Yokomos, but you have to buy wheels and mount your own donuts to get the compounds we run here in the US.

You are correct on how to adjust the ride height.

PS How much does a drunk nun wobble?

Last edited by odpurple; 10-28-2004 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 10-29-2004, 12:01 AM   #8996
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Thanks for the answer.Id like to know more about 1/12....What kits can you recommend? what are the other needed equipment to run a 1/12?are 1/12 cars suited to concrete tracks? I have all the electronics....how much more will I spend for a 1/12 car?
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Old 10-29-2004, 12:03 AM   #8997
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Default Fer cryin' out loud

I guess I just can't believe (and certainly not to pick on CRC) that anyone could go to all the trouble to make a "precision racing device" and then expect you to shoe it with such absolute crap. I NEVER had a problem like that with my old Associated 2-holer rears OR fronts. Never.

These are the CRC wheels/tires. The car came with the kit CRC's and a packaged set of CRC's and a packaged set of Jaco. The Jaco's aren't perfect, but they at least look like I could keep the car on the track. I bet the fronts worst fronts have at least 3/16" of radial runout at the rim.

I don't mind gluing and truing my own--I kept my MaxMod truer. Suggestions for a good place to get the Yoke wheels and some donuts? 'Spose I gotta buy the Yoke rubber and throw it away?


PS...if you've ever seen one, a drunk nun wobbles a LOT
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Old 10-29-2004, 12:15 AM   #8998
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Default the wobbling nun

Keep in mind that this is my experience only. I should also say that I've been running Jaco's for years and most of the wheels have been ok (usable). It seems like lately they've gotten worse, though.
I bought bare Yokomo wheels from a LHS who ordered them for me from Yokomo USA. The capper is that Jaco no longer sells donuts, so maybe TRC or BSR. It's all the same stuff.
I used to use a Max Mod also-Fred Flintstone's tire truer-but it worked great. I use a Hudy now-very 21st century!
And stop giving that nun the hooch.

Last edited by odpurple; 10-29-2004 at 12:27 AM.
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Old 10-29-2004, 12:45 AM   #8999
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Default 1/12th kits

Most of the 1/12th cars out right now are good cars. For availability of kits and parts you can't beat the new Associated 12L4. Other t-bar cars that work well are the CRC T-Fource, Yokomo YRX12, and the PRC Quad 12 (My Fav.) 1/12th cars work on asphalt and probably concrete ,too; they don't like bumpy tracks much.
If you really want to set up a 1/12th car properly you need a tire truer. All your other RC equipment will work. You'll want small electronics-mini servo, reciever and esc. Most kits sell in the $200 range.
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Old 10-29-2004, 04:16 AM   #9000
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Scottrik - I suggest you try John's BSR for tires. I am rather surprised to hear from you that the CRC products are not to your standards, but I can assure you that the products from John's BSR will be.
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