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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-27-2002, 12:04 AM   #886
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oh yeah- I forgot to say thaks to the Lord and also Danny of SMC (my sponsor) for great batteries and encouragment. Also thanks to Ray, Mark O. & Jim of TCHR and Dave S. and his little brother Petenis and A.J. and his Dad. Without their help... I don't even want to think about it.hehehehehe

So what questions, thoughts, ideas do you guys have for going faster. I think it may be time to talk motors on an indepth level. So DaveL time to give up some of the secrets. LOL
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Old 04-27-2002, 03:06 PM   #887
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Dave - Why come to me. If you read the Speedmerchant website you will see that I got outpowered in Stockton. It implies the only reason I won is that I had a perfect race car and I outdrove the others. I don't do anything that others are not doing. I might do it a little better by taking more care than the others. If you want secrets for motors, go to Tom Esposito. He had a faster car than I did (in a straight line).

But here is some serious advice for you guys in 1/12 scale. Practice! Practice a lot and take it seriously. Running laps is very important to developing the skills necessary to perform well in the races and getting that last little technique or timing in place for the track you are on. Driving is at least 70% of the equation to winning. Spend more time on starting and finishing an 8 minute run than running a few laps and pulling off to change your combination. The laps are more important (Spashette has said this). So, don't think you can just show up at the track and smoke everybody. It takes practice, practice and more practice.

The next thing is to use durable, reliable equipment. Some things in the kits are not worth keeping. Replace them with items that meet the conditions you will race under, and do it with efficiency. The differential is one item, the bearings, the tires and rims, and even the body must be kept in top form. They need taken care of to be reliable and efficient in the long run. And they make a big difference in the performance of your car, in that if they are not in top form, they will detract from the cars ability to run at the level necessary for you to be a champion. I think this is much more important than the brand of car you drive. Take care of your stuff and it won't let you down.

And last thing I want to mention here is to learn how to drive your race car with brains. Smart driving is the key to many championships, especially at the upper levels. So many people get their car, put it on the track and it is hammer down until they are finished with that run. You can see it in their eyes. They get this macho look, they start breathing hard and the pressure cooker is building. You must learn to control your emotions because there comes a time in every main or qualifier where you are under pressure from another driver and you must be the most precise and efficient you can be to get out of the situation unscathed. It is best to concentrate on your car and not worry about all the others. Keep focused until the run is over. Don't talk to the others or yell at the turn marshalls. Focus on your car and the plan that must be executed to win that run. Now sometimes it is good to talk to the driver next to you about a smooth pass that is your next important move, but do not loose that focus I have mentioned.

Bottom line is that it takes a lot of work to become a champion. They all have done it, from Johnson to Spashette to Cyrul. It is called paying the price. That is why they are so good and you will have to go through that too to run at their level or win against them.

I hope I haven't destroyed the interest of any of you paying attention to this. You can still run these cars and have fun. If you are not having fun, I suggest you reconsider your participation in it. It took me 12 tenatious years to get to the level I have attained and I typically am a slow learner on things like this. I didn't start to drive a car until I was 32 years old. I would like to offer this as an example that you can do it, too, but it takes the serious effort I have described above. Some will get it sooner than others. But don't let a setback here or there deter your interest or upset your determination.

Dave, these are MY secrets.
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Old 04-29-2002, 08:23 AM   #888
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Amen!

That's what I tell people too David. Where do you race now since you moved away from Mimi's?
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Old 04-29-2002, 11:28 AM   #889
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Johnny - It is almost like the world is my race track. I have been to many places this year. Stockton for the ROAR Carpet Nats. BigBoysToys in Tauton MA for the Region 1 Champs, Indy for their Triple Crown race, and Madness in Edinfield for their January Jam.
I run at Potbelly's Raceway in Vineland, NJ for fun and it is within 30 miles of home. Ran at a small track in Limerick PA one Sunday and that was a fun day. Ran in Hamilton, OH one Wednesday night while traveling for work in Dayton. Traveled to Edinfield and Taunton many times from Dec through Mar for their weekend shows.

So how about you? Where is home, home track and all the places you have ventured to with the 1/12 scale car?
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Old 04-29-2002, 01:41 PM   #890
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DaveL- How are you these days? Good to hear from you and Socko. I whole heartedly agree with the tips you gave and believe 100% that in order to finish first, first you must finish. From there I think having your car tuned as well as you can preceeds driving as well as you can. Next I think consistently doing the first two breeds consistently doing your best. It's at this stage IMO that you can start to take advantage of the finer points of racing and equipement. There are no shortcuts but we can try to learn some things faster and on a more permanent basis instead of constantly "bashing our heads against the wall". Alas I think that all of us may have a concept or lesson or two that we must spend time at the wall on.
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Old 04-29-2002, 05:29 PM   #891
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Hello all,

Mr. Lee, I have recently moved back to the Midwest after spending a year and a half in Dallas. I'm not sure what or where my home track will be yet, (I've only been here three weeks). I'm sure I'll make it down to St. Louis and up to Chicago quite a lot once the season starts up again. Looking forward to gas right now. Trying to get ready for the Worlds and all. I live in a small town just north of Champaign,IL so I'll be in Cincy often this summer! I make Cleveland every year and since I'm back "home" (I'm originally from the St. Louis area) I'll make more of the triple crown races this season. I did run some in Shreveport, LA this year. They have a great club and they are growing. Aside from that 12th scale has been a national event only thing for me lately.

What's up Darnold? You need to send me directions with ALL the street names so I can come up to Venture this summer and run some parking lot with you guys.
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Old 04-29-2002, 07:42 PM   #892
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Socko....you going to the Gas Worlds?????sweet.....1/8 i'm guessing?

I didnt get to race this weekend ....but i am getting a Blonde CRC Knife sooon......
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Old 04-29-2002, 09:46 PM   #893
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Hey I think I'll take you up on that offer for setups on my 12L3 for the Finish Line track. I'm running 6 cell 2000's with a 19 turn Chameleon I believe. I use TRC Pinks and Purples. Any suggestions as to how to set the car up would be great.
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Old 04-30-2002, 07:26 AM   #894
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Hey Dragon,

Nope the 1/10th 2wd worlds or "touring car" worlds as they are also called. You can check it out at ifmarworlds.com What the h$#l is a Blonde Knife????? I'm sure you're kidding. I used to have a "chrome" Knife. I polished all the screws and the pod plates. I lacquered the chassis and rubbed it out too. Talk about shiny! I never figured you'd give up on the 12L.

VT,

No prob. on the setups. Shoot me your email addy and I'll ship them out to you. GreatSocko@netscape.net.
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Old 04-30-2002, 01:24 PM   #895
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Socko......A "Blonde" Knife is totally devoid of artificle(sp) coloring....ie. red/blue....or a Natural Blonde as i call it(you call it a "chrome knife")...lol.........I got such a goood deal on this car i couldnt pass it up......gotcha on the worlds thing.
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Old 04-30-2002, 04:07 PM   #896
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I see, can't beat a good deal. Need any spares?
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Old 05-01-2002, 04:39 PM   #897
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Socko...what spares and$$$$$$$
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Old 05-02-2002, 09:32 AM   #898
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Spares include the whole diff assembly, all the chassis parts except the main plate, side links, pivot, pod plates, etc.

I'll take $50 for all of it. I can either ship it ( you pay ) or bring it with me to the Biggie and you can pick it up there.

My Mission is for sale too if you want another TC.

I can shoot you a setup for the Knife too if you need one.
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Old 05-02-2002, 01:03 PM   #899
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Socko- How are things going? Selling the Mission already? hehehehe Still don't have ALL of the street names but I plan on going up there soon and will record them for you and send them via e-m. Just finished going over the car, was up until 4am a couple of days ago. I decided to take out a little droop in the front end and add a little more caster (now 3deg) and put some new pivot balls and cups on the T-bar. I also decided to take the T-bar post off at the back for a little more rear grip. What state is your 12L in?

BTW has anyone heard from Foams? How's he doing if anyone knows?
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Old 05-02-2002, 01:05 PM   #900
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Dave - Mr. Foamdonuts sold a lot of equipment. I don't remember if he said he was done for now or done for good.
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