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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-22-2004, 10:09 AM   #8926
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Quote:
Originally posted by Graphitedust
Is there a list comparing the various 1/12 scale bodies and how they behave?

Such as "High downforce" to "low downforce", or high steering/low steering.....

Looked through about 50 pages and can't find any such info....

Guess that was a no?
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Old 10-22-2004, 10:22 AM   #8927
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well if you go on my forum there is a forum for each venue....
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Old 10-22-2004, 02:35 PM   #8928
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Default Asso 12L4

Hi guys iam new th the 12 scene and was just wondering how often you rebuild your diffs on the 12L4, it is just after about 16mins i find the ball diff becomes very gritty so much so if feels like the balls in the diff have squared! I have check the diff
re-built it and it seems fine but again after 16mins or so it become very gritty again.

any help is appreciated

Brett
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Old 10-22-2004, 02:43 PM   #8929
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Brett- Kimbrough makes shields that fit onto thier spur gears that helps to keep dirt and carpet fibers out of your diff. They are really cheap and just snap on. I used to have to clean it every race day or it would feel just as you described. Also use very little diff lube just enough to coat the balls all the excess just attracts dirt. I only have to clean them every other week now.

Here is a link they are under accessories.

http://www.kimbrough-products.com/
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Old 10-22-2004, 02:45 PM   #8930
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeediePHATT
Brett- Kimbrough makes shields that fit onto thier spur gears that helps to keep dirt and carpet fibers out of your diff. They are really cheap and just snap on. I used to have to clean it every race day or it would feel just as you described. Also use very little diff lube just enough to coat the balls all the excess just attracts dirt. I only have to clean them every other week now.

Here is a link they are under accessories.

http://www.kimbrough-products.com/
Thanks for your help
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Old 10-22-2004, 02:52 PM   #8931
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they dont have a very good pic on thier site here is a better one.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg shield.jpg (6.9 KB, 202 views)
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Old 10-22-2004, 05:22 PM   #8932
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Brett W. - Have you replaced the outer bearing when you cleaned your differential? Sometimes that bearing should be replaced. It is a small bearing that wasn't designed for this application. It can be damaged easily when the wheel on that side contacts the wall.
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Old 10-22-2004, 05:34 PM   #8933
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whats the deal with these big ring diffs? i have a carpet knife v3 and i assume it has the standard on on because the balls are in the spur gear inner holes... what advantages do the big rings have and why dont any cars come with it as standard?
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Old 10-22-2004, 05:42 PM   #8934
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The reason most dont come with it is cost. The big ring diff uses 12 balls instead of only 6. So it not only spreads the load out wider it sreads it over twice as many bearings. They are super smooth compared to the regular diff. It seemed to me when I switched over I could adjust the diff a little looser also. Thats probably why it feels so smooth. I know the CEFX car comes with big ring diff. Others may also.

BTW someone was just trying to sell one on the for sale forum for only like 35 bucks new.
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Old 10-22-2004, 05:58 PM   #8935
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Quote:
Originally posted by pheyhoe
whats the deal with these big ring diffs? i have a carpet knife v3 and i assume it has the standard on on because the balls are in the spur gear inner holes... what advantages do the big rings have and why dont any cars come with it as standard?

Back in the day, all diffs were big ring diffs. AE introduced the "stealth" diff with the 12L3. The idea was to reduce rotating weight. The downside is that the smaller rings are more fragile and with fewer balls, the diff is not as smooth. A smooth diff is crucial in a 1/12 scale car.

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Old 10-22-2004, 06:41 PM   #8936
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Reflex 12

Anyone run a Reflex 12 ? Any building\setup tips or tricks to share ?

Oh yea...has anyone had an issue with a loose ride height adjuster fit in the rear pod ? The motor side one on mine is very sloppy, have tried other adjusters thinking I had a bad one but turns out this is not the case.
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Old 10-22-2004, 08:00 PM   #8937
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pucho

your right John will bring his 1/12th scale i am going to run oval this weekend so maybe next Friday we can run 1/12th scale
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Old 10-23-2004, 03:59 AM   #8938
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Any one used Calandra new 3.2R yet?
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Old 10-23-2004, 05:41 AM   #8939
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i have never driven a 1/12th scaler and i want to start 12 scale racing what is the best kit to buy...........i wanna get the crc carpet knife 3.2R........is this a good choice
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Old 10-23-2004, 07:15 AM   #8940
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I personally would go with the cefx it is asome!!
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