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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-20-2004, 10:16 PM   #8896
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Is there a list comparing the various 1/12 scale bodies and how they behave?

Such as "High downforce" to "low downforce", or high steering/low steering.....

Looked through about 50 pages and can't find any such info....
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Old 10-21-2004, 10:30 AM   #8897
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Default Torque steer

well, i bought a carpet knife version 2 and under power the rear right was getting too much power and the car was pulling to the left. Extremely hard to handle on the power. i realise you have to be smooth but this seemed over the top. i put it down to the diff being knackered. so the other day i bought a nearly new carpet knife v3 and tested it... the same thing! is this the same on all 12th scale cars? once they get going they are awsome! (high speed corners)

i also tried to fix this problem by adjusting my diff. i thought maybee if i tightend it so it acted like a solid axle it would accelerate straight, but in practice the car just had too much power going straight to the rear wheels and handles like a bag of..

so.., i loosend it so there was no wheel spin but i get the feeling this is going to ruin my diff balls and the car takes a year to stop slipping and get up to some decent speed...

what can i do to solve this? or what is the best way to set the diff up.
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Old 10-21-2004, 10:41 AM   #8898
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i would take a hard look at your tweak 1st as mine goes like sh*t off a shovel on acceleration
you should never have your diff slipping its not a slipper clutch
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Old 10-21-2004, 10:43 AM   #8899
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Default Re: Torque steer

Quote:
Originally posted by pheyhoe
well, i bought a carpet knife version 2 and under power the rear right was getting too much power and the car was pulling to the left. Extremely hard to handle on the power. ...
Make sure your rear axle is truly aligned.

Find the centerline of your car as accurately as you can and mark the back of the pod. After marking pod- put on a nice or new set of rear wheels and measure from the centerline to the inside edge left and right tires. They should be within 0.005. Now measure the width of rear of car and if your running ROAR race rules-car cannot be any wider than 6.77" or whatever your sanctioning body has for a rule.

HOpe this helps,
Ray
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Old 10-21-2004, 10:48 AM   #8900
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pheyhoe,

I'm going through something similar, seems no matter how many times you set the tweek the thing will not stop pulling to one side. I have sorted out most of mine, it seemed that my trailing link turnbuckles were a fraction tight, hardly noticable. I losened them off and it did help. I was thinking that with mostly right hand tuns it was binding a little and holding the rear pod from centering completely and then as the wieght transferred back their was extra weight staying on the right hand rear wheel making it push left. With this theory in mind I checked the ball cups on my dapmer tubes, they were tight too so I loosened those off. I have not drove it since I did that so I've yet to find out if it works. One thing I noticed - If I put the car down tapped on the antenna post to "settle" the car, then without doing anything nail the throttle. In my case it went straight, after going around a few corners then hitting the throttle again, it started pulling. This is telling me that something is binding and holding it from sitting properly. I have the Rev3, very similar to the knife I don't like the ball cups on the damper tubes, I think I'll try to change them out, hopefully it will help.

Any comments on this anyone? OD, I'd particularly like your opinion.

Chris Rhodes
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Old 10-21-2004, 10:51 AM   #8901
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Crimson-you brougt up a good point. Link cars will out of slow corners if the rear pod is not perfectly aligned with chassis and will feel tweaked if any of the 4-ballcups in the links are too tight.
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Old 10-21-2004, 10:53 AM   #8902
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thanks for the help. i will try all of your suggestions tonight and let you know. i am in england running brca rules but the 12th scale class is not that popular so they are not strict on things like that

cheers Paul,
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Old 10-21-2004, 11:00 AM   #8903
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oh yes they do you should visit a national im in the uk where are you?
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Old 10-21-2004, 11:26 AM   #8904
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Crimson-you brougt up a good point. Link cars will out of slow corners if the rear pod is not perfectly aligned with chassis and will feel tweaked if any of the 4-ballcups in the links are too tight.
Ray hit the nail on the head. On ANY 12th scaler, but especially link cars, the movement of the rear pod must be completely free of binding. Try disassembling the the pod, polish the pivot balls with high-quality metal polish. Next re-install the links one at a time to make sure they pivot freely individually. Now rebuild the rear end with the exception of the bulkheads, top plate, and springs. Move the lower pod plate through its full range of motion, paying particular attention for any tight spots. If you notice any tight spots, then your links are out of adjustment, and your rear pod isn't square. This is the most common suspension related cause of a car pulling to one side under power.

I don't think it's been mentioned before but tire size can also affect tracking under acceleration. Make sure that you start the day with rear tires that are the EXACT same size, and rotate them after EVERY RUN. Any stagger in the rear tires will create uneven tracking under power, and you'll also find that you're tweaking the car the same way after every run.
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Old 10-21-2004, 11:30 AM   #8905
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yer i would set it up to the regs if i were doing a national event, i race my 10th scale SD nationaly not my 12th scale. i am in licolnshire, Cleethorpes to be precise. I will rebuild the rear end tonight making sure everything is free..
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Old 10-21-2004, 11:40 AM   #8906
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I have and easy question for you guys. If my front tires are conning to the inside meaning the inside of the fronts are smaller then the outside of the fronts. Do I need to add or subtract camber to remove the conning? I am thinking add camber or make the tire more upright. Let me know if i am wrong in my thinking.

Thanks,
Mike Street
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Old 10-21-2004, 11:44 AM   #8907
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Quote:
Originally posted by Street_Racer
I have and easy question for you guys. If my front tires are conning to the inside meaning the inside of the fronts are smaller then the outside of the fronts. Do I need to add or subtract camber to remove the conning? I am thinking add camber or make the tire more upright. Let me know if i am wrong in my thinking.

Thanks,
Mike Street
you got it. right now you have too much negative camber.
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Old 10-21-2004, 11:48 AM   #8908
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hi guys i just got an l3 and think its awesome, the best car iv ever driven of any class. But i would like some setup help i am using it standard setup justnow and would like some more corner speed cuz it just seems to bog downa bit during cornering. I have loads of steering and the car is perfect in all other aspects , exept for it traction rolling on some corners but i am going to try one of the roll stops in the rear pod plate to prevent this . I am also using kit standard tires (greens) in front and jaco greys in rear
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Old 10-21-2004, 11:53 AM   #8909
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John-post your tire sizes front and rear-approx is fine. And ride height too. Oh and what surface-asphalt (ashfelt), carpet.....
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Old 10-21-2004, 11:57 AM   #8910
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hi i dont know my tire size because i dont have a set of calipers but my ride hight is 3.75 rear and 2.75front and i race on high bite carpet
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