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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 10-16-2004, 09:48 PM   #8851
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Originally posted by Fire
"pull the throttle quickly" is the problem, have to be smooth on throttle, also check the car's tweak

did you use any traction compound?
No traction compound. And how do I check the tweak on it?
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Old 10-16-2004, 10:26 PM   #8852
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the way i check tweek is ill put two evenly waighted items ie coins on the front tires just behind the axel so the coin falls when i use a screw driver or such to lift the front of the car in the air slowly .if one tire lifts before the other the car is tweeked

to fix this i tighten the little screw on the t-plate on the opisite side that lifted first
on sping cars like the carpet knife tighten the spring on opisite side ect..

i do this untill both tires lift at same time

or u can waist ur time and money on a tweek board
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Old 10-16-2004, 10:30 PM   #8853
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traction compound is almost like a necessity for 1/12~

I'd like to use paragon
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Old 10-17-2004, 02:12 AM   #8854
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Before you adjust tweek, back off the tweek screws and check that the front springs have the same preload on each, trim the spring and shim if necessary(tires must be of equal diameter left to right when you do this). Then adjust tweek as you normally would.

Yes traction compound is very important for 1/12th. Get a blower and clean off the track if possible. Be smoother and if your still spinning the rear tires then you could try adjusting your current limiter so that it won't easily spin the rear tires(nothing you can't do with throttle control though).

Last edited by fatdoggy; 10-17-2004 at 02:37 AM.
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:06 AM   #8855
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Ok thanks guys. I guess I just nned to learn to not be as trigger happy as I am with my touring cars. Plus since the car is used I will check the tweek on the car as well.
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:42 AM   #8856
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You mentioned in your earlier post that you were using 6 cells in your 12L3. Try using 4 cells. Most 12th scale racing is 4 cell world wide and you'll find that it will be much easier to drive and properly geared it will still be very fast. With the ballistic speeds that can be obtained with 6 cells in a 1/12 scale, tapping a board can result in near explosive effects.

**Record setting carbon fiber**

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Old 10-17-2004, 09:58 AM   #8857
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what do you guys think of that new AE car the L4
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Old 10-17-2004, 11:15 AM   #8858
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It's very good. I like the new front end alot. It also comes with the IRS big ring diff too. Can't go wrong with it, or you can buy the BMI 1/12 that will be availible soon. That will be even better

Question for your guys: What have you been running for 1/12 stock motor setups. So far right now I have a 2 mag binary stock (roar legal one), red and green springs, and 767s with a + cut in them. Just seems like it's going REALLY soft at the end of the run.

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Old 10-18-2004, 04:33 AM   #8859
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Default L4 Question

Have the 12L4, over all the car is good but it seems inconsistant?

One round, car is decent, next round car is twitchy? ANy ideas?

My current setup is .020 front springs, purple fronts, gray rears, and very very little trinity pink stuff on damper plate.

I know this car can be super fast but I am missing something. It's just inconsistant. Any advise?
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Old 10-18-2004, 04:43 AM   #8860
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Korey - your overgeared.
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Old 10-18-2004, 06:04 AM   #8861
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Originally posted by T Allen
what do you guys think of that new AE car the L4

If you want to check one our Ill bring mine to TQ on Friday. I am trying to ge some people to run 1/12 friday nights it would be fun and low maintenace.
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Old 10-18-2004, 07:50 AM   #8862
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i need a little help...i was told about a servo alot of 1/12 guys are running that allows you to mount the servo flat on the chassis due to the fact that it has the mount built into the case....i think it is supposed to be a airtronics servo but i have looked everywhere and cannot find it
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Old 10-18-2004, 07:55 AM   #8863
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search for "94145z" at towers. Thats the one you are looking for.
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Old 10-18-2004, 07:57 AM   #8864
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thanks a bunch
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Old 10-18-2004, 08:18 AM   #8865
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Another way if you are using a AE normal plastic servo mount is to turn them 180 and drill new holes in the mount. That way you can more easily test stand up and lay-down.
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