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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-17-2002, 03:06 PM   #856
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Hey guys greetings from the office on my way tomorrow to the Norrca Nat's. How is everyone?
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Old 04-17-2002, 06:25 PM   #857
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Socko.......I'm gonna try to make it to the Texas Biggie......I'll holler at ya' if i make it.....you needin' a gas man????

Darnold.....Thanks for the comments....I'll prolly just go with the 12L3, since i'm already running Assoc......AND...goood luck at the Nats....
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Old 04-17-2002, 07:35 PM   #858
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Thanks for the offer to pit me. I've got a pit man already though. Def. stop by if your in town. You will get to see me be one of the slow guys for a change!

Good luck in Minneapolis Dave, too bad I can't make it.
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Old 04-17-2002, 09:35 PM   #859
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Hi Dennis,

I am currentlly running a 12L3. I run a very large track, so I don't know how much of this can translate on to your car, but here goes:

I run Mod, so I roll out at anywhere from 35-50mm. I use the angled front caster blocks supplied in the kit, and I put the little spacers in the rear of the mounting point (where the pin goes through. I use .016 springs in the front, and in the rear I use the stock silver spring that comes with the kit with losi 45wt silicone shock oil. I also use thick Losi hydra drive fluid on the dampner plates on the rear pod. My t-bar of choice is a .075(thick) one. I do not use the third( middle ) screw in my t-bar, but I do something a little different as far as moutning it goes. I use a broken t-bar and cut off the back( the narrow end that would be east-west on the car) and use that instead of the spacers. It was suggested to me to do this, because I am fairly new to modified racing and it does lend some much needed support back there. Out of about two month's worth of racing, I have only replaced two t-bars( both in the same night, I might add). I am not sure, but I think that putting that middle screw in does give you more steering, but you end up putting more stress on the t-bar. Oh, I think i forgot to mention-I use purple front and green or grey rears depending on traction.
I am wondering, how your car is handling? does it have a bad push, is it super twitchy, or is it good but could use a little more here and there? What kind of motor do you run, stock or mod, and what kind?
My car handles really well for a modified car. It is very durable, and is a nice, stable platform for just about any kind of track you set it on, with the exception of dirt, of course


Anyhoo, hope this helps out. Let me know if you need any other assistance, and how this stuff works out for you. The springs might be a little too soft for stock racing, so an .018 or even a .020 might be in order. I have never heard of platinum tires before, who makes those? All I can seem to find around here is grey and green rears.

Good Luck, go out and kick some butt!

Dave S
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Old 04-18-2002, 10:54 AM   #860
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Quote:
Originally posted by MarkA
The 2002 NORRCA OnRoad Nationals Entry form is out:

I going to run 1/12th mod (4 cell)
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Old 04-19-2002, 04:37 AM   #861
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Dave S,
i run a 12L3 also and have had a lot of sucess using the kit setup (with the exception of tyres) at our small, and technical carpet track.
just wondering though, have you tried out the alternative front upper arm mounts, so the upper and lower arms are parallel? if so what difference does it make?

Thanks
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Old 04-20-2002, 11:17 PM   #862
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MR4Racer,


As a matter of fact, yes, I have tried the zero degree caster blocks. I have found that they make the car a lot more stable in a turn than the 2degree ones that the kit setup suggests using. I ran the zero degree blocks with great success in my CRC 3.0 that I used to run in stock class, which runs an associated dynamic caster front end just like your car and my Mod car. I found that I was able to carry a little more speed through the big sweepers and the car had a real "planted" feel to it. I have not tried it in my Mod 12L3 because you need all that you can get( in my opinion). I don't know if you would want to give this a try on a small, technical track however. I can only imagine, but there must be a lot of tight turns, narrow lanes, and short straightaways. I wish I could give you some better input, as I have not tried it on my 12L3. I would give it a whirl on a test day though, or maybe a first qualifier, just to see if you like it. When I used the zero degree blocks, I put the little white plastic spacers on the back of the caster block. Hey man, you never know until you try. It isn't that hard or time-consuming to switch back if it isn't for you. Tell me what you think, and good luck! By the way, are you running mod or stock? What kind of tyres are you using? What kind of front springs are you running?

Keep the shiny side up, and go kick some bum!


Everyone,

Just thought I'd drop all of you a line from the NORRCA Nats here at TCHR in Brooklyn Park, MN. Darnold qualified just a tick off of TQ for mod 1/12 scale. Mains are going to be run tomorrow, and it should be sweet. I am unsure as of now, but I think all 11 of the 1/12 scale mod cars are going to run together in triple A-mains! It should definately be fun and the extra traffic might come into play. I am eternally grateful to Darnold for all his help and tips. It is unbelievable all of the stuff he has gathered over the years of racing. It reminds me of how little I actually know, and how cool it is to have people involved in the hobby that are truly good people and have time for you no matter what. I'll try to have more for you all tomorrow. I have to go and paint a body for the 'ol hot rod. Let me know how everyone's race weekend went.

Have a good one!

Dave S.
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Old 04-22-2002, 03:53 AM   #863
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Dave_s,
i'll give the blocks a go next meeting, i just hope they work! the problem is that me and my brother are the ones running the meeting so i don't usually get time to play with setup, so it means i'll have to use it for 4 qualifiers and a final, whether it works or not. Got any more setup tips for the L3?
btw i run 6-cell stock, purples front, grey rear, and use the kit springs.

Thanks
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Old 04-23-2002, 07:29 AM   #864
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What servos do you guys use with your cars? I had a Futaba S9602 in it and I fried it when I instaled a bad Tekin G12 CIII ESC. Then I used a Hitec 225Ball Bearing Servo that started makking grinding noises and eventually cracked the casing the first race day. What do you guys used in the mid 20-50 dollar range? Also did you guys have to drill new holes for different brands of servos because my hitec servo didn't fit in the stock mounting space? Has anyone tried using standard size servos?
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Old 04-23-2002, 01:43 PM   #865
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I run a JR Z3550. It's small, fits the car, and is fast enough for mod. It's a little higher than you're looking for price wise, but, it's worth it.
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Old 04-23-2002, 03:20 PM   #866
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I realized that I'm still on a learning curve so no more expensive servos for me till I get better.
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Old 04-24-2002, 07:17 AM   #867
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You shouldn't be breaking servos very often if at all. Of course, if you are running at Finishline you do go through more parts. I don't want to sound negative but, Finishline is not a good track to learn 1/12th. It's too big, too open and, you spend way too much time at WOT to learn anything about car setup or throttle control. Don't get me wrong, it's a great track - for gas cars. If you want to learn 1/12th go to Austin or Shreveport. Both have high traction carpet and fast drivers that will help you with setup and driving. Dragon or I can give you directions to Shreve, you can go to rcfiles.com for info on the track in Austin.
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Old 04-24-2002, 08:29 AM   #868
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Well I do plan to go to the carpet tracks in the fall when I have time. David Galdo aka RCCadet is teaching me the basics about electric cars and I' m trying to pick up on some things from the actual 1/12 scalers' in the area but it's not a very popular class. The main reason I got one is so that I could learn how to drive since I keep breaking so many parts in my nitro cars.
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Old 04-24-2002, 09:10 AM   #869
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Check out the club forums under MSRA. The Shreveport club is in the 'Racing at the "House" ' thread. This forum is also a good source of info with Darnold posting all the time. I've raced with him and he knows his stuff fairly well. I'll try to help too if you have any questions. What car do you run? 12L3? Trinity? Knife? Are you registered for the Biggie?
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Old 04-24-2002, 09:55 AM   #870
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I run the 12L3 for now. I'm not registered in teh Texas Biggie cuz I'll be away up north for the summer.
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