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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-16-2004, 10:21 AM   #8566
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sg1 - Check, 37-40mm with a roar stock and green springs. Would 767's do ok or would putnam blues work better?

Cheers.
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Old 09-16-2004, 10:42 AM   #8567
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FATDOGGY...
767 may have too much RPM with that motor... you could try to cut the brush to "retard" the timing and run a larger comm. diameter (.290") to gain torque and loose some RPM... With 4 cell that motor will scream with the right set up... Try to get 6 to 6 1/2 amp current draw with a 2 volt supply with a small fan on the motor. As soon as the serrations go away the current draw will be too high. You could try cutting the serrations deaper to last longer
-Wayne
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Old 09-16-2004, 10:51 AM   #8568
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Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
FATDOGGY...
767 may have too much RPM with that motor... you could try to cut the brush to "retard" the timing and run a larger comm. diameter (.290") to gain torque and loose some RPM... With 4 cell that motor will scream with the right set up... Try to get 6 to 6 1/2 amp current draw with a 2 volt supply with a small fan on the motor. As soon as the serrations go away the current draw will be too high. You could try cutting the serrations deaper to last longer
-Wayne
Your giving away all your secrets!! I now have to print this post and put it in my toolbox!!
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Old 09-16-2004, 01:13 PM   #8569
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RAY....

You still have to drive it!!!!! lol
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Old 09-16-2004, 01:15 PM   #8570
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Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
RAY....

You still have to drive it!!!!! lol
Thats always been the probem for Ray. j/k lol
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Old 09-16-2004, 01:31 PM   #8571
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Quote:
Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
Thats always been the probem for Ray. j/k lol
NO-sg1 is absolutley correct-my 12th is a rocket in a straight line!! I got no problems with motors or batteries!!! I have driven 12th if I may so so great one day of my life and luckily it was at Nats. Pretty much every other time (100's of times) I pretty much sucked!!
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Old 09-16-2004, 02:46 PM   #8572
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sg1 - Awsome thanks.
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Old 09-16-2004, 02:52 PM   #8573
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Default Corners/Turns

I have question I was hoping that all of you can help me with. I run the RC12L4 with the CRC damper tubes. Everytime I go into a corner the car seems to bind, stop then go. Makes a sound as though the car is trying to move but not going anywhere. Looks like it almost get caught up for a quick sec on every corner.

How can I free this up? I'm running purple/greys. .20 spring (.18 had too much steering), Silver shock spring, Trinity RED stuff in the tubes.

Thanks in advance.

-JC
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Old 09-16-2004, 03:09 PM   #8574
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Ray--If your 1/12 is the one I'm thinking of it looked good at nats. Held a lot of cornner speed.
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Old 09-16-2004, 07:53 PM   #8575
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JCB - Providing everything on the rear-end is fine and doesn't bind I'd guess it's your front suspension binding up. When you build the front end nothing can bind; you've got to make sure that everything is placed in correctly and all parts are free but without slop. Make sure that your upper suspension arm ball end has the large opening facing upwards and the pivot ball with the lip downwards. The lower arm must have the pivot ball with the lip facing upwards.

Last edited by fatdoggy; 09-16-2004 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 09-16-2004, 08:17 PM   #8576
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can u guys help me pick out a 12th scale car?
im going to run it at trackside!
im making the switch from sedan!
i herd the 12l4 is the way to go?
thanks for your replies!
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Old 09-16-2004, 08:22 PM   #8577
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losixxx, if you can make it to Trackside this weekend I think there will be a good variety of 1/12th scale cars there on Sunday. Feel free to ask as many questions as you want. I will be there driving a red/white/black body, so search me out. I will help as much as possible and show them to you.

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Old 09-16-2004, 08:24 PM   #8578
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this is what I would do. Since you are just starting with 1/12th scale, see what the people at your track are running.. that way you know the shop most likely will have parts and you can get setup help.
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Old 09-16-2004, 08:26 PM   #8579
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losixxx - Get something that comes with everything. The L4 requires the lowered rear pod $40 to run small rear tires and the CRC conversion $90 if you want damper tubes. The CRC T-Fource and the soon to be release Bmi car come with everything in one box for around $240. I suggest you try both a damper plate car and a damper tube car before you make the decision. I was lucky enough to have friends who let be drive both a stock L4(later converted to tubes) and a reflex 12. Although I've only run 1/12th a few times I've found damper tube cars(reflex 12, L4 after tube conversion) much easier to drive then the stock L4 with the damper plate.
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Old 09-16-2004, 08:29 PM   #8580
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I would also look at the CEFX C12, very nice car designed by one of the best racers, Josh Cyrul...

You can get one from KT Hobbies for $235
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