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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-12-2004, 02:36 PM   #8551
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Oh Zoot, your gonna toast diff rings like crazy with it slipping

Sushi is correct. It's a diff. Set it like you do the diff in your buggy. Hold both wheels and tighten the nut until you can't turn the spur gear by hand.

Do you guys have a carpet track in SLC yet?

take care
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Old 09-12-2004, 07:33 PM   #8552
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Thanks for the correction/information. I know that if the diff is too tight on the TC-3's they are great drift cars. I play with the settings on those cars...usually with the front diff slightly tighter than the rear. It is this rear drive pan car seems to be ultra touchy to the settings. If I read your posts correctly...the rear should react immediately.... I did notice an initial slippage (few seconds) and then it went away .... I will monitor that ....

We are looking for a site to lay carpet down for an indoor track. I am trying to talk the President of my company into letting us use some surplus warehouse space. Currently we are running outside on the blacktop.
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Old 09-12-2004, 08:05 PM   #8553
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Default CK Question

Guys-
I am just getting back into electric after a five year lay-off (been racing 1/4 scale oval since 2000).

I just ordered a BKCK 3.2 from my LHS. I heard that Frank and the crew are coming out with a new car.

Is this correct? If so, what will the differences be? The L4 front end? Adjustable battery positions?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
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Old 09-12-2004, 09:11 PM   #8554
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Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
Stock TC is a world away from mod 1/12th...
I don't want to get into another argument about this but I don't even consider TC when I talk about 12th scale. They are different worlds & I belive someone who can't make the A-main in stock TC could drive a 12th scale mod 8 minutes without crashing if he has the talent & the hand


Quote:
Originally Posted by racenut123
I ran stock 12th the whole last carpet season TBK.....So what are you talking about? Your not ready for Mod my friend
Who else runs 12th scale stock at Gilroy?...Sounds good to me
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Old 09-12-2004, 09:20 PM   #8555
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Black Kat
I belive someone who can't make the A-main in stock TC could drive a 12th scale mod 8 minutes without crashing if he has the talent & the hand

I truely agree with that.
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Old 09-13-2004, 10:12 AM   #8556
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If a 1/12th mod racer can finish a race without blowing a line or hitting anything for the full 8 minutes they should be able to make easy work of stock TC.
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Old 09-13-2004, 10:35 AM   #8557
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Black Kat
I don't want to get into another argument about this but I don't even consider TC when I talk about 12th scale. They are different worlds & I belive someone who can't make the A-main in stock TC could drive a 12th scale mod 8 minutes without crashing if he has the talent & the hand

While I agree that they are different worlds, I've seen plenty of folks who could make the A at the US Indoor Champs at Cleveland in TC Stock who would do nothing but turn a 12th Mod car into a pile of smoldering rubble. If it's any indication as to how difficult 1/12th Mod is, Atsushi Hara didn't even make the Mod 12th A at The Champs last year, but he d@mn near won Mod Touring. Touring cars are FLAT OUT easier to drive consistently, and you only run for 5 minutes. 12th scale cars are easier to get around the track, but harder to get around the track on the ultimate line.
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Old 09-13-2004, 04:48 PM   #8558
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
Touring cars are FLAT OUT easier to drive consistently, and you only run for 5 minutes. 12th scale cars are easier to get around the track, but harder to get around the track on the ultimate line.
I dissagree. I can barely get my TC laps in the same 3 quarters of a second without hitting anything but I bet if I timed my 12th scale laps more of them would be within the same 3/4ths of a second than they would with my TC

It could just be me

Quote:
If a 1/12th mod racer can finish a race without blowing a line or hitting anything for the full 8 minutes they should be able to make easy work of stock TC
I can go without hitting anything but I may blow a few lines trying to go too quick. When I drive my TC I'll hit more stuff and get stuck more than I blow lines in 12th.

I could be wrong though but I have a gut feeling I'm more consistant running a 12th than I am with a TC (I'm not saying I'm gonna win my next 12th scale race though)
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Old 09-13-2004, 04:53 PM   #8559
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Default MOD 12th scale is the hardest form of racing you'll ever do!

"A" masters 12th at cleveland last year

1 1 39 8:02.98 FRANK CALANRRA JR 309 17.89
2 3 39 8:10.78 BOB VANWAGNER 82 17.60
3 2 39 8:12.22 TOM ESPOSITO 139 17.55
4 0 38 8:04.19 BOB SCHOENAU 25 17.39
5 9 38 8:05.69 ELI EZROW 20 17.33
6 8 38 8:07.51 RON FERGUSON 164 17.27
7 5 38 8:08.62 CHUCK LONERGAN 171 17.23
8 6 38 8:09.53 JUNIOR NORTON 486 17.20
9 4 37 8:04.56 BUD BARTOS 387 16.92
-- 7 --- DNS --- SKIP STARKEY 342

C main mod 12th finished 6 started 3 40 8:09.11 FRANK CALANRRA JR 310 18.12
C main mod 12th finished 1 started 1 42 8:03.75 BOB VANWAGNER 83 19.23
espo didn't run mod
schoenau didn't run mod
eli didn't run mod
ron didn't run mod
chuck didn't run mod
norton didn't run mod
bud didn't run mod
E main mod 12th finished 7 started 2 36 8:06.58 SKIP STARKEY 341 16.39


"A" stock 12th at cleveland last year

1 5 40 8:06.19 VICKY BLACKSTOCK 347 18.23
2 6 40 8:08.45 JEFF DAYGER 370 18.14
3 1 40 8:12.51 MO DENTON 491 17.99
4 3 40 8:12.59 MARK SMYKA 228 17.99
5 8 39 8:08.84 SCOTT SMITHER 374 17.67
6 2 39 8:11.34 WAYNE VINCE 269 17.58
7 0 39 8:12.65 MARK CALANDRA 307 17.54
8 7 38 8:13.28 MIKE DUNNIGAN 236 17.07
9 9 37 8:13.53 RICHARD CHANG 41 16.61
10 4 4 0:55.00 ALEXANDER LOPEZ 240 16.11

D main mod 12th finished 10 started 5 18 5:02.47 VICKY BLACKSTOCK 348 13.18
E main mod 12th finished 1 started 8 41 8:10.70 JEFF DAYGER 371 18.51
mo didn't run mod
smyka didn't run mod
smither didn't run mod
vince didn't run mod
D main mod 12th finished 5 started 7 40 8:07.64 MARK CALANDRA 308 18.17
dunnigan didn't run mod
chang didn't run mod
lopez didn't run mod

6 drivers in the "A" with a stock couldn't do better then "E" to "C" main in mod. and that's comparing red apples and green apples. I do understand about some of them not running mod to keep there non pro driver status and we all know that's a load of BS

results from http://cleveland.nashrcracer.com
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Old 09-13-2004, 06:22 PM   #8560
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I was asking about mod because lately I haven't seen any lsiting of stock listed at my local track

Now that Racenut chimed in and said there is indeed a stock class....I'll run that
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Old 09-13-2004, 07:14 PM   #8561
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Hey TKB.... Run whatever the locals run at Hobbyworld.I raced more at Stockton last year the Hobbyworld. I will tell you that when we {the guys who raced Stock 12th scale at Stockton carpet} came to race at Hobbyworld, we would race the Hobbyworld locals with stock motors and they ran mods. They would either dump trying to keep up with us and were a second a lap off our stock pace. I strongly suggest you learn to drive the 12th scale efficiently. Its harder to do that with mod if your at your skill level. Run a stock motor with them. Believe me,its faster then you think if you gear the thing properly.
Its a little distressing to me to see guys in our area are jumping into 12th mod right off the batt when they could learn to drive then worry about if they want to make the jump to mod when they gain the skills.The local factory Mod guys{stockton usuals} are trying to pack thier class with people they can victimize by telling them to run Mod right away.This leads to frustartion on the 12th scale newbies and we see a decline in the class around here. Stockton r/c raceway really promoted 12th scale stock last season and man the class took off.It had people of all skill levels racing 12th scale again and man we had some awsome,close racing.
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Old 09-13-2004, 07:21 PM   #8562
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nash--well put. I think that a lot of those guys could do good in mod if that is all they ran. Localy we usually only get stock racers so its hurts me a little in mod at a big race.
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Old 09-15-2004, 08:58 PM   #8563
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what cars do u run and which is the best for carpet?
thanks
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Old 09-16-2004, 05:24 AM   #8564
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Stock motors - I heard at the track last night that a good setup for 12th is a p2k2 with red/green springs, 767's with a small hole and about a 50 rollout. They said it would get very hot but it would be fast. Has anybody tried this before?
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Old 09-16-2004, 06:25 AM   #8565
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Fatdoggy...
Try the new EPIC based 2 magnet stock motor. It runs alot of RPM, but if you fun a brush with less silver and green springs it is fast!! You'll still have to roll it out much lower then a REVENGE based motor.. On our home track around a 1.45 to 1.55 roll out, depending on the length of straight and how many turns.
I haven't run a P2K2 in a LONG time!!
-Wayne
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