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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 09-07-2004, 08:16 AM   #8521
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Originally posted by savio7
sg1/Tempest2000 Thanks. I looked at both websites and neither seem to have teflon tape.

Wonder if it's available through a hardware shop. Seems that the pros put the tape on the damper plate.
E-mail Bud off of his website and I am sure you will be able to buy it. I know as I just got some frm him for my 12L4.
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Old 09-07-2004, 05:39 PM   #8522
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Hey hows it going, got a question for all you. What is the battery of choice right know for 1/12 4cell mod. Is it still the gp3300 or is the sanyo 3300 hv or something else. I never kept up with battery technolgy over the off season and need to buy some new ones.
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Old 09-07-2004, 08:03 PM   #8523
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Thanks Ray!
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Old 09-08-2004, 12:10 AM   #8524
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Racerxx - GP3300's are much better then the sanyo 3300hv cells.
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Old 09-08-2004, 06:16 PM   #8525
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difference between novak millenium and millenium pro please?
_|Team Academy GV2 Pro_|_Team Academy SBV2 Pro|_--->Losi xxxbK2 (FOR SALE)
_|Factory Tracks Midwest Series_|_www.factorytracks.com|_
_|Team Upgrade-RCid_|_www.upgrade-rc.com|_
_|MRC/Team Academy_|_www.modelrec.com|_
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Old 09-08-2004, 06:31 PM   #8526
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Originally posted by tomlau

does anyone know if the cross brace, top plate and damper tubes from an IRS rug rat would fit an L4?

I know that the tubes and top plate will work and the cross brace should too.
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Old 09-09-2004, 06:17 AM   #8527
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What's a good choice for a stock motor and setup in 1/12th?

I've been running:
Trinity Monster Stock
Brushes: Putnam Green +/ Blue - (Full face on both)
Springs: Green + / Blue -

Rollout of about 1.65"

It's been pretty good but was wondering if there's something better.
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Last edited by dr_hfuhuhurr; 09-09-2004 at 07:54 AM.
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Old 09-09-2004, 06:39 AM   #8528
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two minor suggestions:

- although a blue spring on negative has always been fine with some of the older motors, it may be too weak for the monster. If you want more punch potentially go with green/green on both the brushes and the springs

- I recommend slotting the brushes and then making sure you break them in a full 180 seconds at least (to minimize the chance of glitching from their high silver content)
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Old 09-09-2004, 07:13 AM   #8529
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Sweet...I'll try that. Horizontal or vertical slot?

Also, anyone using a quad mag binary or 2 mag binary in there? Any luck. I'm open to trying whatever.
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness. Which side are you on?"

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Old 09-09-2004, 08:17 AM   #8530
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I always get confused between horizontal and vertical. let me put it this way, the slot should be parallel to the arm

with the binary (which is a quad magnet, thus who knows how they came up with that name), drop at least 2 teeth off of your pinion or you will overheat it
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Old 09-09-2004, 01:01 PM   #8531
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not a direct answer but:
search millenium/millenium pro
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Old 09-09-2004, 04:16 PM   #8532
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Default abt reciever packs for 4 cell cars

hiya guys!
i have a CRC carpet knife 4 cell, and i am finding difficulty driving the car.
power seems to comequite easily whilst the car is on blocks but on the track, it comes out in spurts.
i am using a trinity 9 turn D5 motor on it.
i am told that the current drain from the motor is wut's causing the pulsing and can be solved with a reciever pack.
is this true?
and if it is, will my reciever blow up if i connect a 5 cell pack to my reciever?
i am using a lightweight GWS with built-in BEC.
also, wut's a good motor to use on a 4 cell car?i was told to go as low as i can but i seem to have problems with low wind motors.
i would appreciate all the help on this matter.
During heats, i use durex for both front and rear, with Hard inserts.

Sorex, i meant Sorex.
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Old 09-09-2004, 05:49 PM   #8533
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not sure...
are you saying your car is fine when you drive up and down the blocks but it's glitchy when it's at the track?

probably some sort of interferience from the track...

Anyways.... anyone got some extra aluminum motor mount/lefside axle holder parts?
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Old 09-09-2004, 06:12 PM   #8534
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foampervert - How many runs on your motor? Give the comm a cut replace the brushes and run it in at low voltage/timing.

Your problem could just be bad throttle control. Stick in a stock motor till you can finish a race without taping much and you'll find it easier to control and probably be faster anyway.
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Old 09-09-2004, 06:30 PM   #8535
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My carpet track has a 10 double motor limit and I'm trying to decide what wind/brand/type of motor to get this carpet season. I might have to run mod if I want to run 12th because nobody runs stock...but thats cool. If racing TCs has taught me anything, its how to BQ and take the B-main ....

Hey! I might do respectably...I can dump a pack with my little 13x3 machine wind (9-10 min) without hitting a single wall/rail and going at full pace the full time...Even if I don't make the A...If I go the whole 8 min how I can in practice I'll be happy as a clam

Anyway...I'm thinking maybe a Euro wind (like a handwound 12x3). I hear the Euro winds are efficient AND are quick. Just wanted some imput...Thanks

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