R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-30-2004, 01:26 PM   #8431
sg1
Tech Elite
 
sg1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,787
Trader Rating: 79 (100%+)
Default

Fatdoggy...
It will have 2 top plates, one for the disks, one for the dampner tubes. The cross brace will have the holes in it for the tubes allready. Your option!!
-Wayne
sg1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2004, 02:56 PM   #8432
Tech Master
 
Tempest2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Wayne that's great... I don't care for the disc...

Will it be aluminum or plastic dampner tubes?

I really like the plastic better because it will give instead of getting tweaked if you get in a wreck. Although either will work.

Let me know...

Thanks,

Michael Skeen
Tempest2000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2004, 03:07 PM   #8433
Tech Elite
 
fatdoggy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD USA
Posts: 3,642
Default

sg1 - Sounds awsome thanks for the info. I think I'll wait and get the Bmi kit. I'm sure it will be worth the wait. Any idea when it would be available(2-3 months?) Also any idea if it would be possible to pre-order one in the near future?

Cheers.

P.s. - For the front wheels would it be a nut retainer or an e-clip retainer? I'd prefer a nut but would be happy with either.

Last edited by fatdoggy; 08-30-2004 at 03:39 PM.
fatdoggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2004, 03:40 PM   #8434
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,516
Default crc med grip asphalt setup

Gent's,

I need a setup for med. grip asphalt. The setup that I have now is not working. I have way too much steering and no rear grip. Used to run carpet, completely lost on the asphalt for setup.
Thanks,
E.


current setup:
.22 springs
0 degree blocks
1 d toe-in
1.5 d camber
arms on chassis
servo flat
4 mm rh
proline purples

tri 35 wt oil
green spring
4mm rh
white side springs
5000 wt ofna in tubes
pod droop .5+ mm

#2 axle carrier
crc stock axle
trc pinks

monster stock (no mods to motor)
88spur / 25pinion
__________________
<
AE 12R5.2 (x2) - TC7 - M05 - M05V2R

People who don't have to wait for the latest item, should not tell those that do, that "It's worth the wait"
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2004, 04:40 PM   #8435
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Auburn KS.
Posts: 3,466
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Thanks John that will help alot
porter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2004, 07:47 PM   #8436
Tech Master
 
raving-monkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: yorkshire, england.
Posts: 1,820
Send a message via MSN to raving-monkey
Default

i was just wondering how much additive you guys run on the front wheels....i mean 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 or all...

i was recomended to run 1/4 so i have been up till last meeting, i accidently put 1/2 on and i really liked the extra grip the front end it gave.

i was just wondering how much steering you peeps run.
raving-monkey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2004, 06:21 AM   #8437
sg1
Tech Elite
 
sg1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,787
Trader Rating: 79 (100%+)
Default

Raving-monkey...
I personally use 3/4 to 7/8 additive, then dial some of the dual rate out of the radio. For example.. If you can get the car to run with 60% dual rate by adding more tire additive, compared to 80% with less additive, there will be less cornering scrub in the car and be faster and more efficient in the turn.
-Wayne
sg1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2004, 06:26 AM   #8438
sg1
Tech Elite
 
sg1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,787
Trader Rating: 79 (100%+)
Default

Tempest2000...
I'm not sure if they will be aluminum or plastic.. The plastic ones I've tried were very sticky..

Fatdoggy...
The initial kits my have locknut retaining front wheel system, but they may change to something new and innovative!!

I'm not sure on a release date, there maybe a small lot of cars made to see what interest there will be. Jason would be the person to direct the release date questions, cost, pre-order info... I'm more involved with chassis set-ups, designing, and testing.

-Wayne
sg1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2004, 07:03 AM   #8439
Tech Master
 
Tempest2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Wayne.

I ran for Tony (PowerPush) also last year, but don't know if you remember me. I ended up in the same mod 12th heat with you last year at cleveland. Just couldn't get in a good run to save my life LOL

If I can get one of these cars maybe we could discuss some setups for Cleveland.

Thanks,

Michael
Tempest2000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2004, 08:05 AM   #8440
Tech Master
 
raving-monkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: yorkshire, england.
Posts: 1,820
Send a message via MSN to raving-monkey
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
Raving-monkey...
I personally use 3/4 to 7/8 additive, then dial some of the dual rate out of the radio. For example.. If you can get the car to run with 60% dual rate by adding more tire additive, compared to 80% with less additive, there will be less cornering scrub in the car and be faster and more efficient in the turn.
-Wayne
Thanks for that, i currently have 70% one way, and 60% the other (don't ask why, its my servo, it turns more one way than the other ) might play around with additive and steering rate next meeting.

Thanks
Matt
raving-monkey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2004, 09:58 AM   #8441
Tech Elite
 
fatdoggy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD USA
Posts: 3,642
Default

raving-monkey - Adjust your radios epa to ensure that you have equal servo throw in each direction.
fatdoggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2004, 09:29 PM   #8442
Tech Apprentice
 
rchotrod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 56
Lightbulb yok yrx-12we

I am just starting in 12th scale. will be runing this car in 19t class and need some starting out tips and setups. Mostly running carpet, but may run other surfaces too.

Also, are the rear axles standard between makes? What is a good replacement axle? The 12l3 axle? And will the yok hubs fit the 12l3 axle or will I need to get the 12l3 axle assembly?

Thanks and sorry for all the questions.

See ya,
Rod
rchotrod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2004, 05:11 PM   #8443
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 31
Default Teflon Tape

Anyone know where to get teflon tape for the 12L4 upper plate. I know the pro use it just don't know wher to find it.

Also any setups for the L4 on carpet.

Thanks.
savio7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2004, 06:07 PM   #8444
Tech Master
 
raving-monkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: yorkshire, england.
Posts: 1,820
Send a message via MSN to raving-monkey
Default

when you bend an axle, and come to get a replacement just get the IRS one.

the latest cars (reflex, calandra, L4 etc) all use the IRS one, with the big rings in the diff
raving-monkey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2004, 06:15 PM   #8445
Tech Elite
 
dr_hfuhuhurr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 4,427
Trader Rating: 69 (100%+)
Default Front axle adjustment

On the old school blocks what procedure do you use to set the caster to 2* in my case and make the height equal?

I do have the 2* caster shims.

Thanks,
Blake
__________________
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness. Which side are you on?"

“Life is hard; it's harder if you're stupid.” - John Wayne

Last edited by dr_hfuhuhurr; 09-01-2004 at 06:21 PM.
dr_hfuhuhurr is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:06 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0