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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-29-2004, 04:32 PM   #8416
sg1
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fatdoggy...
I'm not sure if it will be a kit or conversion yet.... we're still working on it... I think even if it is a complete kit you will be able to purchase it and have enough money left over to pay for a few race entries!! I'll find out more info Monday on what will be offered.
What would you rather see... a complete kit or a kit with all the new graphite chassis componants, new pod plates, new standoffs, and some hardware????
-Wayne
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Old 08-29-2004, 05:20 PM   #8417
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i know you wasn't aiming it at me...but in a way it would pay to do both (may cost more money thought)

as there are people that would want to do the conversion..but then there would be people that would want to come into the 12th class...want to by your chassis etc but wouldn't want to buy a different car just to have to buy a conversion afterwards.

if you get what i mean trying to say

Matt
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Old 08-29-2004, 06:07 PM   #8418
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I just saw right at the bottom of the T-Fource page on the CRC website that a full T-Fource kit was supposed to be out by august 2004. If they are still going to come out with a full kit, I would probably get that through my LHS/track. If I could get a full bmi kit(that included T-plate, damper tubes and lower rear pod) through my lhs for less or the same as a CRC then I'd be interested.

Last edited by fatdoggy; 08-29-2004 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 08-29-2004, 08:11 PM   #8419
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Quote:
Originally posted by raving-monkey
i know you wasn't aiming it at me...but in a way it would pay to do both (may cost more money thought)

as there are people that would want to do the conversion..but then there would be people that would want to come into the 12th class...want to by your chassis etc but wouldn't want to buy a different car just to have to buy a conversion afterwards.

if you get what i mean

Matt
grr, why do i keep doing quotes when i mean to do the edit button
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Old 08-29-2004, 10:31 PM   #8420
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Wayne.. I don't know if it is possible, but I think both options would be good a conversion and a straight kit.

I know I'm very interested in the BMI 12th. I can't wait to get one. I can guarantee i can have 5-10 of them sold as a full kit before cleveland at least. I am interested in testing it out myself. I love my BMI TC3. I know BMI makes quality products.

Michael Skeen
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Old 08-29-2004, 10:34 PM   #8421
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Don't forget to check out www.powellracingcomponents.com to see the Quad12 conversion kit. The site has not been updated in a while but Dpowell posted a pic of the latest chassis a page or two back. It was out long before the bmi.
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Old 08-29-2004, 10:40 PM   #8422
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Full T-Fource CLN1312 from Horizon Hobby. CRC says the full kit (team car with lowered pods with purple and grey tires) will be out in a week or so. CRC's price is $225
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Old 08-29-2004, 11:27 PM   #8423
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Wayne,

I was thinking of trying 12th this year and would take the plunge if BMI offered a kit. I would prefer a full kit to avoid buying a car from somewhere else and then not using part of it. I really enjoy my eTC3 chassis and look forward to see what BMI has to offer in 12th.
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Old 08-30-2004, 01:36 AM   #8424
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Quote:
Originally posted by insideline
Full T-Fource CLN1312 from Horizon Hobby. CRC says the full kit (team car with lowered pods with purple and grey tires) will be out in a week or so. CRC's price is $225
Wow that's awsome. Thanks insideline.

Last edited by fatdoggy; 08-30-2004 at 03:35 AM.
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Old 08-30-2004, 06:35 AM   #8425
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Rick S...
We're looking into a full kit as we speak... hopefully I'll now more by the end of the week!!
-Wayne
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Old 08-30-2004, 06:45 AM   #8426
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I think it would be a great advantage for any company to offer a full kit, as well as a conversion. Not many people want to spend another $100-125 on a car after they buy a new one.

take care
john
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Old 08-30-2004, 11:39 AM   #8427
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Wayne - The Bmi car would be using damper tubes right?

Thanks.
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Old 08-30-2004, 12:09 PM   #8428
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Hi there, we have just recieved a new carpet track in our area, and I am going to be running a 1/12 scale for the first time in my 10 years of R/C.

I'm just wanting to know some of the basic adjustments that I should be aware of, and what those adjustments will do to the car. Feel free to get technical, I have a pretty good understanding of R/C cars.
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Old 08-30-2004, 12:34 PM   #8429
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Quote:
Originally posted by lastplace
12th scale rear tire question.

What brand/compound rear tire are you using?

I started out with Jaco, great foam, cheap rims...moved on to CRC's great rim, poor foam, no traction...TRC's next, super great traction, rims could be better and foam seperates from rims, has to be reglued. All tires were greys.

Has anybody tried CRC whites?
CRC and Jaco foam is identical.
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Old 08-30-2004, 12:41 PM   #8430
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Quote:
Originally posted by porter
Hi there, we have just recieved a new carpet track in our area, and I am going to be running a 1/12 scale for the first time in my 10 years of R/C.

I'm just wanting to know some of the basic adjustments that I should be aware of, and what those adjustments will do to the car. Feel free to get technical, I have a pretty good understanding of R/C cars.
There some pretty info here:
http://www.rchowto.com/Tips/Pan%20Ca...up%20Help.html
There's another good site, but I can't locate it right now.
Don't be affraid of the setup sheets you find on the net. Most of them are probably a year or more old, but they still apply.

As long as you've been racing you won't have any problems.
For carpet, setup's seem pretty much the same every where.
.020 front springs, .075 T bar (on 12L cars), Trinity Red Stuff lube on the kingpins and damper disk. Purple front and Pink rears. Drive it hard!!!

If you don't have one already, get a tweak station. Balance your car on golf tee's and get it as close as you can. Check the tweak often and it will accelerate straight. I try to clean and relub the diff every few runs as well as the damper disk. On our track, my car will start hoping or chattering if I don't clean the damper disk often.

take care
john
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