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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-09-2002, 01:04 PM   #826
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Dave S- I honestly believe that people should run what they like first and foremost. It seems to me that too much of RC since my return has become a big popularity contest with people runing and expecting others to run whatever is in the most quantity for that day. It sounds like you may like modified better so that's what I would run. This race is going to be cool and I really look forward to hanging out. Thanks for the condolences and my understanding is that Jari left for similar reasons so its good to hear that he's back and racing.

007Y- Seen them up close, seen them run and it's a good car. The kit comes in fiberglass but there is a seperate graphite conversion kit you may upgrade to for extra like the Losi TC does. The fiberglass kit may be the way to go for outdoor only racing because it should develop more grip .

Ian- Wow, it's been so long I can only guess and give you a possible starting point with everything being in 64 pitch. Stock 6 cell (are you sure it's 23turns and not 27, ?? '') try: 25/100 at 1.85" rear (about 47mm?) and for a 12 double try: 22/100. Remember for every .0500"(about 2mm?) you go up or down on the tire diameter you need to increase or decrease your pinion by on tooth. Hope this helps-Dave
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Old 04-09-2002, 02:39 PM   #827
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Yoshi,
I used to run the SP12G3 and the car was very good. The issues that I had with the car were that the parts werent readily available and the car just wasnt quick enough. With the Trinity cars that I run now you can really push the car and make it go very fast just by altering your driving style slighty. The Corally's are SO smooth you just cant push them like you can the RC12L3 or the Switches.
IKE
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Old 04-09-2002, 03:43 PM   #828
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Well I will be a beginner at 1/12th scale onroad. So would a smooth car be a better car for me? The 119.99 price tag on the sp12m is very attractive.........
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Old 04-09-2002, 07:12 PM   #829
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Hey Dave, who told you about the .050 per pinion tooth? Pretty good rule of thumb. But we don't drive with our thumbs, do we? Anyway, I didn't calculate it but I think the gear for 47mm is around 30/100. I have run a lot of 42 to 44 this year and that was a 29. Same tire size. James Arnold can verify this.

About the Corally SP12M, I just don't know. I have one and fooled with it a couple days. Juca ran one a little at a couple of places and went back to the 12L. I sat next to Team Corally all weekend at the Nats. They struggled. Some of them ran the SP12G3 4Cell and were closer to the front. Fernando ran the 12M and didn't come close to the old Fernandao I know. They were adding center shocks and springs and all sorts of things to find the combination. And the thing was that the track was made for a Corally with big sweeping corners and long straights. Cadillacs do well on that. As for mine, I added the center shock and spring because the fiber glass t-bar was too soft. I haven't run the carbon fiber version. I haven't run with that yet, but I expect to be searching for the spring it needs. I intend to add some Speedmerchant type springs to the dampner to control the tweak. Paul Martin has done that with a SP12G3 and it ran very well. Made the car more responsive to quick changes in direction. I like that approach because the thick dampner syrup slows the car down too much to be responsive. Some say it changes direction faster and I think it is doing it on the play in foam tire. They like large diameter tires you know. Oh, and the car doesn't like any bumps in the racing surface. The Nats track had 2 nasty, I say nasty, bumps in the middle of two of the three right hand turns. Maybe that was the issue for them. Anyway, I ran Corally for 9 years before this Speedmerchant opportunity came. I can answer more questions about the cars, if you can put up with someone that hasn't raced it seriously for about 4 years. I do keep the museum going though. Currently have at least one of every 12 scale they have brought to America. They are a work of art to look at.
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Old 04-09-2002, 09:33 PM   #830
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Well besides the corally I also thought about the calandra carpet knife. Anyone driven one? What do you think about it?
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Old 04-09-2002, 09:34 PM   #831
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I guess the sp12m does look like it would be less responsive than the 12l3s, switchblades, rev3s and so on......
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Old 04-09-2002, 10:46 PM   #832
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yosh,
I prolly wont get this sentence out before Dave Arnold can chime in here and give you his thoughts on the Carpet Knife. For a beginner I would say go with the RC12L3 that is a pretty tough car and it is easy to "learn" how to drive with it. You can also progresss with the car because it is still very fast once your 12th skills get honed.
IKE
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Old 04-09-2002, 11:28 PM   #833
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Hey Mr. Lee- How are things going? Are you enjoying that Masters National Title? The .050 difference came from roll out caculationed differences and then on-track testing verification two years ago. You know me, usually it's not just knowing but also understanding. Of course this has its good and bad points like most things. hehehehe ('')



007Y- Listen to Davidl and Foams because I haven't run a Corally since 90' just before I got out of RC. My advise on the car was predicated upon your mentioned venue (asphalt) and the two choices presented. My personal choice is the 02 Switchblade because I think it's the best 12th out now but L3's, Speed Merchants, and in Europe Corraly's all seem to be competitive so it may be more of a personal taste issue. For me its the 02 Switchblade. ('')
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Old 04-09-2002, 11:31 PM   #834
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that should be "roll out caculated..." Geesh and here I go up to the office tomorrow and Thurs. again, I'm going to be wide awake. ('') LOL
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Old 04-09-2002, 11:37 PM   #835
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hey hey DAVE???!!!??????!!!!!!????


GO TO BED!!!!!!!!!!

hehe
IKE
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Old 04-09-2002, 11:37 PM   #836
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('')
Boy is it time for me to go to bed or what? Concerning the Carpet Knife the car is a killer stock class car on carpet but I honestly think that the CRC 6 pack is better for Modified racing on carpet and better on Asphalt period than the Carpet K. If you aren't sure about getting the Corraly you may want to consider the 6pack or L3 especially if you will be running almost exclusively on asphalt. Oh well off to bed. Dave Arnold
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Old 04-09-2002, 11:39 PM   #837
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ahahahhahahhahahahahhahahahahhahahahahahhahahahahh ahahahahahhahahahahhahahahahahhahahahahhahahahahah hahahahahhahahahahhaha i must have been telling you to go to bed just as you were typing that you were off to bed...........hehehehhehehehhehehehehhehehehehhehe hehehhehehehhehehehe(damn I must be tired too, thats a lot of laughing)
IKE
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Old 04-10-2002, 08:24 AM   #838
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Corally originally designed their 1/12 scale cars for carpet, but it was during the 6 cell days. That is 6 cell, modified motors, and no tire traction compound allowed. They built a test track in their manufacturing facilities that was basically a billiard table. It was very flat and smooth. All of the cars were tested and developed on that surface. That also explains why their cars were always so stiff in the rear and never able to handle the bumps we experience on our tracks in America. The front suspensions started out very stiff, ie the SP12 with Coral front beams, but went to very soft when they introduced the swing beam suspension.

Corally has now changed to the 4 cell configuration per the change in IFMAR. But I think they are still focusing on the modified market as there isn't any stock racing as we know it for 1/12 in Europe. But now they have gone way far to the soft side of the setup combinations for both the front and the rear.

I don't agree with their use of carbon fiber materials for t-bars. The material has a metal characteristic to it that makes it sustain vibration. It does what I call ringing. It takes a lot of dampening to control. The fiber glass material is much superior for t-bars and Associated and Trinity have proven so with the t-bars in their cars. Woods also tried carbon fiber for t-bars back in 1991 or so, but the top drivers always ended up with the fiber glass t-bar in their car.

The SP12M has a long t-bar similar to what Trinity tried several years back. I don't think it will do anything on carpet and Corally will have to make an adjustment for it as Trinity did. Notice that the Trinity cars excel with the Associated t-bar. Dave, do you agree with that? And that has a lot to do with the length of the t-bar and it's characteristics when you are using tweak screws in the from of the t-bar. The longer t-bar is way too soft in that application. Even the Associated guys almost exclusively use the thicker (.075) t-bar in their cars on carpet. That is to get quick reaction when changing direction in tight chicanes. Well, enough of this as it only relates to carpet.

When you move to the pavement it is a different deal. The Corally may end up being excellent on pavement. I believe the 12M can be made to run pretty well over the bumps you typically have on pavement. I think you will have to add the center shock and spring to get enough latitude in adjustment, however. I don't believe the dampener pod on the Corally can provide that. It must dampen in all directions and I believe you need different dampening from front to rear than you need from side to side. Therefore, the center shock and spring give you the added control required to vary the dampening in each direction.

I haven't talked at all about the new front suspension of the 12M. Let me compare to a 1/10 scale car. I have a Corally C10 that had a similar suspension. It ran extremely well, on carpet however. I never had a chance to run it on pavement. I initially thought that the C10 suspension on a 1/12 scale car would be great. Well, here it is, but I wonder about some of its characteristics. The center plate is confusing to me. I don't understand how to adjust it. I know there are 3 forms of it. One is carbon fiber and then there are two different thicknesses of fiber glass used for these parts. But there is something else in the layout of this suspension. I think the springs are located too close to the pivots. I also think the caster gain during squat is too great (same problem with the swing beam design). We shall see as people try it. I hope it turns out to be an excellent suspension.

That is all for now. If anyone has questions or other points to make, please respond, even if you disagree with me. I am always interested to learn more.
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Old 04-10-2002, 02:46 PM   #839
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Thanks for all the help guys. ONE Last question- which car is least affected by chassis tweak (ex: say i hit a pipe and the once awesome setup i had has become a nightmare because of that 1 hit)?
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Old 04-10-2002, 07:49 PM   #840
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Default setup for 12L3

I was wondering if anyone had any general setup opinions for the 12L3? Are there any setup sheets online? I couldn't find any on Associated site. I am running on a small ozite track. I am running purple/platinums, 4 cell stock, 20/76 gearing (I think, haven't checked). I was looking more for caster setting (should I use the 10*blocks or the 0*blocks?) I have the stiffer T-bar in, should I use all 3 screws? I was also curious as to what spring and oil I should be running. Just looking for a baseline here since I am not used to setting up these cars (run a Losi xxx-s now). Any ideas wouold be appreciated!!!! Thanks a lot.
Dennis
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