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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 08-26-2004, 10:33 AM   #8371
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It would be the same as the gas car.

Instead of a TH servo, you have an ESC.

I use these:


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Old 08-26-2004, 11:20 AM   #8372
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stumper1--pm me you email and I will send you pics of the current Quad12. they are to large to post here and I really don't feel like resizing them. I will try to get thoes to you tonight.
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Old 08-26-2004, 11:55 AM   #8373
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so basically, i just plug it into the batt slot on my reciever like on my G4, and it will work?

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Old 08-26-2004, 12:05 PM   #8374
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Default Re: Quad12

Originally posted by stumper1
Anyone have a pic of the current Quad12 chassis?


For stumper1, Fike, fast-ho-cars, ODpurple and others who have asked, here is a picture of the current Quad12 chassis. E-mail us at info@powellracingcomponents.com for more information.

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File Type: jpg 04-q12.jpg (168.5 KB, 616 views)
**Record setting carbon fiber**

Speedmerchant and TOP USA dealer.
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Old 08-26-2004, 12:39 PM   #8375
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Default Re: reciever pack switch

Originally posted by odpurple
Somehow when you have two switches on your car the turn marshall will always find and use the wrong one. I just remove the esc switch so there's only one. I have noticed (after setting up several cars with both switches left in place) that turning them both on did not cause any damage. These were cars with Novak escs.

The one advantage of leavng the ESC switch on the car is when you forget to charge your RX pack-you can still race. but agaiin-its prety hard to remember "whitch switch?"
RX packs are cool-they work-they are an advantage, but I havent been running one lately. ONly reason? Laziness. Dont want to charge it or wire it into the car or remember which switch it is. Mostly its charging it every race.
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Old 08-26-2004, 12:45 PM   #8376
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would a 650mah one last?

or would i need a biger one (like 1100 or something)?

i use a 650mah one in my G4 and it seems to hold up..but thats 5 mins, 12th is 8
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Old 08-26-2004, 12:46 PM   #8377
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Nitro is powering 2 servos and they are usually pretty heavy duty right? In 1/12th you have one servo...
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Old 08-26-2004, 01:03 PM   #8378
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suppose, might give an rx pack a try this weekend in the 12th.
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Old 08-26-2004, 01:21 PM   #8379
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1/12th cars use 50Mah NiCd or 160Mah NiMh RX packs. Both are the same size.
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
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Old 08-26-2004, 01:41 PM   #8380
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Hi Guys-
What is the difference between an l3 and an l4? I am looking to get into 12th scale and already race associated's sedans heavily. Any help on differences would be greatly appreciated.
~~Stephen Sobottka~~
SMC Racing
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Old 08-26-2004, 03:35 PM   #8381
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mainly less holes in the chassis cut outs for four cells only and better dynamic front end along with a new rear pod! somebody else help if i missed anything.
Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push
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Old 08-26-2004, 05:44 PM   #8382
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It's still not as good as a Quad12 though.
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Old 08-26-2004, 07:10 PM   #8383
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Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push
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Old 08-27-2004, 01:59 AM   #8384
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Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
It's still not as good as a Quad12 though.
Hey Adam , Nice sig ........LOL I guess the last one was ok ?
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Old 08-27-2004, 04:43 AM   #8385
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Hey Matt (raving-monkey)

I don't think many people in the UK still use receiver packs. With the advent of 3300's and now 19t spec racing, if you have ok gear (unlike me!) you won't dump. Even with a 12t mod you should be ok as long as you don't wedge the throttle stick up when you're racing.

Keep it smooth and make sure you don't have duff cells (like me!) and you'll do 8 minutes fine!

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