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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Rear - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Front - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!

Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 08-18-2004, 08:09 PM   #8311
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Yeah I decided I might need it in the infield plus that way I wouldn't drop off as much at the end of the race...
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Old 08-19-2004, 05:55 AM   #8312
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Hector: It was a beautifull thing my power came on yesterday. I went to FT and Masami showed up and the started cleaning up too! Hara brought Water. Talk about people wanting to race. All I have to say is don't lean on the back rail. The place was a mess but it's looking desent now. Ill be there at noon after I get out of class.
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Old 08-19-2004, 10:25 AM   #8313
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ok pucho I'll see you there friday.
Do you need me to bring up anything for you and melissa?
Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push
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Old 08-20-2004, 01:36 PM   #8314
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Howdy all. Just a quick reminder. When wiring a reciever battery, positive is red and neg is black on the reciever plun in?
Also, how or what do put in to charge the battery or do you just use the aligator clips right where the wire is solder to the battery?

Thanks and take care
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Old 08-20-2004, 02:29 PM   #8315
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I use a female charge jack plug I got from my LHS. I cut the wires so there are only a couple of inches left, strip and tin the ends of the wire and clip on to that with alligator clips.

I use whatever charger I have open to rechgarge the pack at .5A.

I have seen guys solder pieces of battery bar to the + and - cells and clip directly to that. However, I dont like the looks of that
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
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Old 08-20-2004, 02:55 PM   #8316
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That sounds good and about like I was remembering it.
Come to think of it, I have a couple of those 2 prong deans plugs, Maybe one of those in line would work good and then wouldn't have to put a switch in and could put the charger right on that.

Thanks and take care
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Old 08-21-2004, 10:18 AM   #8317
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Tested my 1/12th with your set up! It works!!!!!!!
Though I was just using a 23t (with bearing) motor and it was fast!!! I was even trailing a nitro car with ease!!! Just need to practice precise throttle control!!!
Peace and Happy Racing!! LEM
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Old 08-21-2004, 09:35 PM   #8318
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Just thought I'd share my first decient experience with 1/12th.

The first time I tried 12th I ran a friends car on asphult for about 3 minutes, the setup was off and I wasn't really into it. Tonight(2nd time ever, 1st on carpet) was a completly different experience. A friend handed over his modified 1/12th(reflex 12 with a 12t and a year old pack from last years gate nats) and said don't hold back(I didn't ask to drive his car and never would have). I've been running stock TC for 2 years and had had a crap day of practice till that time. After a few tips I went out on an empty track to give it a shot, with him and another friend watching. It took me 10 or so slow laps to get a feel for the car, the next 8+/- laps were faster but had me blowing lines on 2-3 corners per lap. However the next 10 were to be quite frank "Friggin Ballistic!", it was very easy to drive and the setup felt perfect. I still blew a corner or two per every 2 laps though. I lightly brushed the wall 5 times or so all up, but only drilled it once. I took the sweeper coming off the straight too tight around lap 15 and it did a nice little back flip, after the bump lifted the front end up. Parts tally 0 nothing broken, so the owner told me to keep going after a quick inspection. What suprised me was that the rear end was more planted then I thought it would be. Lap times, one or two of the local fast guys can hit high 11 second laps but most are in the low 12's. My best lap I guess was around maybe lap 25 or so with a 12.66. Most of my laps were high 12's or low 13's. Yes I know a full second is WAY off the pace. That run was the most fun I've ever had in R/C.

Why isn't this class bigger? Easy to drive, well alot easier then I expected, fast and a shat load of fun.

Last edited by fatdoggy; 08-22-2004 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 08-21-2004, 09:40 PM   #8319
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I'm just getting back into 1/12th after about 8 uears (!) layoff.

I was wondering what the current thoughts are regarding shells - what shells work for what kind of track?

I have some people telling me the yokomo MS1 is a good all round shell, and others saying that the Protoform Ascari or the Speed12 is the go.

Can anyone help with some info and save me buying several shells?

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Old 08-21-2004, 09:51 PM   #8320
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Parma speed 8. I've heard alot of good thinks about it. Not sure if it's *the* shell but it was on the 1/12th I tried tonight and it was great. Coming from someone who is pretty much ignorant about the ways of 1/12th.
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Old 08-23-2004, 03:58 AM   #8321
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Anybody remember the page on here or link that had the pic of the carbon tub 1/12th scale chassis , rumored to be from Europe ?

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Old 08-23-2004, 04:20 AM   #8322
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Yeah, it's on
1/12 forum

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Old 08-23-2004, 09:16 AM   #8323
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Lem2 glad it worked out for you practice makes perfect. just stay on top of it and it will come to youin time! Remember in 12 scale its consistancy that wins!
Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push
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Old 08-23-2004, 09:18 AM   #8324
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Default Florida Series race and 12th scale

Were there any 12th scale racers at FullThrottle this last weekend?

If so, who was hot and who wasn't...
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Old 08-23-2004, 01:27 PM   #8325
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Thanks Mag ........
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