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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-15-2004, 02:19 PM   #8266
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OK What is a good 1/12 scale on road to buy?My son and I run gas onroad and are wanting to race 12 scale this winter.What would be a good set up to get as in servo,esc,batteries,and car.I will prob. be looking for used becuz I wil be needing 2 set ups.Thanks in advance
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Old 08-15-2004, 03:16 PM   #8267
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Quote:
Originally posted by rdub202
is there somewhere other than crc's homepage where i can find parts for a carpet knife???
http://www.speedworldraceway.com
speedworld is a good place
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Old 08-15-2004, 09:43 PM   #8268
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Default NORRCA Nats.

Powell Racing Components wishes to congratulate Hector Garcia(speedXL) for his TQ and 3rd place A-main finish in 1/12 scale 19 turn at the just concluded NORRCA Nationals.
Hector's TQ run in 19 turn would have been good enough to TQ in modified as well!!

WAY TO GO!!
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Old 08-15-2004, 09:46 PM   #8269
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Default Re: NORRCA Nats.

Quote:
Originally posted by DPowell
Powell Racing Components wishes to congratulate Hector Garcia(speedXL) for his TQ and 3rd place A-main finish in 1/12 scale 19 turn at the just concluded NORRCA Nationals.
Hector's TQ run in 19 turn would have been good enough to TQ in modified as well!!

WAY TO GO!!

WAY TO GO BRO!!!!!!!! I knew you would do it.

Now its time to get ready for Cleveland. So get your carpet stuff ready. Maybe you should reconsider and run mod with me.
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Old 08-15-2004, 11:14 PM   #8270
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DPowell,

Maybe you need to ask Hector about the traction problem at the Nats... that could possibly have something to do with mod being no faster. Also I was TQ in mod by a considerable margin so there was no need to go any faster.

Although hector did have a good last TQ run...

Maybe you need to be asking why Hector was trying to have me DQ'd over a STICKER! That was just lame... It wouldn't have mattered anyways seeing how he finished 3rd.

That whole situation is really sad because I loaned my tire truer arbor to both Hector and Billy since they didn't have any way to true their tires. They both out qualified me in the final round since I was taken out by my own teammate in the final round. LOL

BTW I am both the Norrca National 12th Mod AND 12th 19 turn Winner with a CRC 6-Pack chassis.

Michael Skeen

Last edited by Tempest2000; 08-16-2004 at 07:12 AM.
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Old 08-16-2004, 05:31 AM   #8271
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hey tempest,

i just recently bought a crc 6 pack and i am new to the 12th scale

do you have any pics of the car so i can see how you mounted you electronics and batt pack i have be playing with some diff. ideas but i would like to get some from other people

just warning ya i might start playing 20 questions

thanks,
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Old 08-16-2004, 06:07 AM   #8272
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battery question for the 12th scale mod guys

i am looking to get some new 4 cell packs

are you looking for different #'s, is the voltage the most important thing when running 12th scale mod???
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Old 08-16-2004, 06:11 AM   #8273
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batterys are always a funny one in 12th mod

you want voltage, because otherwise your car will feel dead and you wont get any "feel" on the throttle... but you need runtime to make the 8 mins at race pace...

look around, try pro-match, above 400sec and above 1.16 is a fairly ok pack of cells.
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Old 08-16-2004, 07:08 AM   #8274
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Chris... I'll try and take a pic tonight of how I have the electronics in my car and post it for you.

voltage is always important, but you also need as much run time as you can get in modified. I would say at least 420+ for a mod pack and 1.17+ voltage if you want to get serious about 12th scale. If you are on a budget, then go for a 420+ 1.16+ voltage.
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Old 08-16-2004, 07:13 AM   #8275
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Default zapping 1/12th scale magnets

seeing that you are now marketing your magnet zapper (alas I already have one from Team1), what is your perspective on whether or not one really wants full strength magnets for 4 cell 1/12th onroad?

I have been told that, at full strength, the magnets in todays motors are designed for 6 cell voltage and it is necessary to reverse zap and then 3/4 zap back (testing with the gauss meter) for best efficiency (i.e., run time)

Your thoughts?
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Old 08-16-2004, 07:31 AM   #8276
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Honestly it really depends on the type of motor. The can and the type of magnet used by each brand is different which both effect the magnetic strength.

I think the rpm based motors like the C2, peak dynasty make too much rpm and not enough torque so I zap those for 12th scale.

The reedy QM, and Ti based 19 turns on the other hand have a lot more torque and very little rpm so I probably wouldn't in that case.

What you have to remember is that in any motor if you increase torque you are losing some rpm in the process. However by increasing torque you can run a higher gear/rollout and gain the speed back that you lost in rpm. Usually more gear with more torque is more efficient in most cases.

The other factor is track size...

As for the reverse zapping and then 3/4 zap back, I've played with it some, but usually I will not zap it at all because in most motors the magnets are not at full capacity to start with(especially with handout motors). It does work, but it is difficult to get just enough charge through the magnets to get them to where I want them.

Hope that helps, its just one of those things that is personal preference so its hard to give you a clear cut answer.

Michael
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Old 08-16-2004, 02:28 PM   #8277
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tempest I wasnt trying to get you dq'ed I appriciate the arbor since no one was being helpful.

friendship is friendship, but racing is racing I was inquireing with fernando about the stickers because he had made it clear to a few of us that we had to run them. dude I apologise if you took ofense to it. I wasnt going to reap anything from it your right bottom line is you Won! congratulations! you drove well. Enjoy!


Thank you Dpowell and Adam I geeked it and let it get away.
billy spence and Mike (tempest) gave me a really good run. They drove well also. good race guys!
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Old 08-16-2004, 02:37 PM   #8278
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Hector it's alright I'm not that mad about it, but it did hit me the wrong way... Especially when I knew nothing about it and in light of the whole mod touring situation...

To be honest, Fernando never gave me the stickers to put on the car. However I did get one from someone else to put on for the pictures. I was not trying to take anything away from Norcca I simply didn't have a sticker.

I do look forward to racing with you again though and Billy Spence. You both gave me no room for error. I think you and I were very equal in speed and handling...

I guess I'll see you at Cleveland then. Maybe we can go out and have a drink and forget about it altogether
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Old 08-16-2004, 02:58 PM   #8279
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cool tempest Sometimes things happen and interpitid in a wrong manner you did good!
I will be at cleveland this year yeah lets hang out and have a beer! there should be a ton of traction there!

Also tell nash racer whats up he thought you were going to kill him!
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Old 08-16-2004, 04:29 PM   #8280
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that's because I WAS going to kill him for taking me out in the final round of qualifying LMAO... I know he didn't mean to, but dang taking out your teammate is just wrong somehow
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